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Possible faulty coolant sensor?

Goooze

Active Member
Feb 2, 2024
8
3
Yo.

So, recently my 1.6 16v SC has been having some troubles in the coolant department. I'd be getting temp readouts around 110-120, and the car has been struggling to bring that temp down to normal levels, even at idle. Driving under load would get temps into the 120-130s, until suddenly dropping to 105 before climbing again. The temp dash light only came on once during all this - specifically the first time the car overheated, before I started tracking temps.

Have been driving with my heating on full blast to try and deviate engine heat, but the temp of the air coming out of the vents was 'uncomfortably warm' at most. Didn't marry up too well to a car claiming its coolant was sitting at 120-130c.

Had a look under the bonnet at the weekend, and made a discovery. The rubber coolant hose wasn't seated into its horseshoe bracket. It was fully loose, and was doing this:

grr.png


It has been resting on top of the AC refridgerant pipe. The hot rubber pipe had bonded itself quite nicely to the cold metal one. I got them apart, and luckily the rubber pipe hasn't been split or melted, but you can see in the pic that it's left a mark from its time sat where it shouldn't.

Anyway, I put the rubber hose back into its bracket. Now, the car gets to temps of 105-110c, and when idling, comes back down to the mid 90s almost immediately. It's back to cooling itself as intended (thank god!!)

There's only one problem now. Despite the car cooling itself perfectly again, twice it has randomly spiked up to 130c and spewed out error code P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low.

I'm thinking that the poor sensors' been through the wringer after an extended time of the Very Hot Pipe touching the Very Cold Pipe. Car would be normal temps, spike to 130, give the error code, and then the coolant returns to 105c and carries on as normal. This happened yesterday on my drive home, and I whacked the heating on full blast, and thankfully this time, the air that came out of the vents was actually boiling. I thought my skin was going to burn off hahaha.

The sensors' gotta be shot. But I don't think I know enough to be sure about that.

This car is such a princess. Am I right in thinking replacing the sensor might nip this final issue in the bud? Or perhaps it's something else?

Ty for reading this essay.

I guess my PSA is 'make sure the hot pipes aren't touching the cold pipes'. Hahahaha
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,059
South Scotland
I think that you need to check the operation of the cooling fan, as it sounds like the slow speed is not working, so it is only when the coolant temperature reaches the “switching point” for the high speed, that the coolant temperature gets pulled back down.
 

Goooze

Active Member
Feb 2, 2024
8
3
I think that you need to check the operation of the cooling fan, as it sounds like the slow speed is not working, so it is only when the coolant temperature reaches the “switching point” for the high speed, that the coolant temperature gets pulled back down.
I had some suspicions with the fan. The times were it was up to temp and I was able to check the under the bonnet, I never caught the fan moving. I had the fan itself replaced last year.

Is there something I can do to check the slow speed/fix the issue, or am I looking at a whole new fan? (again!!)

Thank you so much.

Edit: Just thinking - I should probably connect the fan itself to a 12v to see if it runs with direct power. I'll try this :)
 

Goooze

Active Member
Feb 2, 2024
8
3
Update:

Temp has only been topping 108c on my 30m drive to work, and cooling down to mid 90s as soon as its no longer under load. Pretty pleased about that.

However, leaving work yesterday, I checked the coolant (car was cold), and there was max 3cm of it in the expansion tank. No signs of leak. I topped it up and drove home with no issue.

Checked again when I got to work today, coolant was 95c. Level was sitting smack bang in the middle of the expansion tank.

Not sure if my perception has been skewed after my car running at hotter temps for so long.

Will keep an eye on it.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,059
South Scotland
Maybe try using Google to find out how to check/test the running of the coolant cooling fan, if your car has a single fan fitted, it will have a dropper resister in the wiring to allow it to be run at a slow speed via/through the dropper resister, or directly and so at the fast speed.

Switching the AC on and demanding cooling should mean that the coolant cooling fan will be run at its fast speed even if the engine coolant is not hot.

I think that you will find that if you get to the correct info via Google, you will find that checking the operation of both fan speeds is done easily by applying a short circuit to a pair of pins in the connector for the thermal switch - one pair of pins shorted out to run the slow speed, and another two to run the fast speed. This check not only checks the dropper resister - as they can end up burning out, but also the fan controller and all the associated wiring.
 
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RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,964
1,059
South Scotland
Maybe include "VW Golf" in your Google search as I think that doing that will return more hits - as far as I know, the system/method VW Group uses to control the coolant(and AC gas) cooling fan(s) has not changed by much over the past 20 years or so - so read across should work when sourcing this info from other VW Group marques.

Edit:- from memory, in the thermal switch connector, you use only 3 pins, so one pin will be common, one pin for activating the low speed and (another) one pin for activating the high speed - that will be for cars with a single 2 speed fan.
 
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Goooze

Active Member
Feb 2, 2024
8
3
Update for all who may come across this. Ended up taking it to my garage.

Faulty coolant sensor and thermostat (y) replaced and now working/cooling beautifully.

Cheers @RUM4MO so much for the suggestions. Will keep it all in mind for the future.
 
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