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Part Identification

batman3000

Guest
I have a 2004 seat Leon 150 tdi cupra. On the back fire wall in between the two pressure converters for the boost and the egr there is another unit. It has a silver top on with made in USA and has the following part number 1J0906283C. Does anyone know what this part is? Is it something to do with the engine idle?
 

batman3000

Guest
Thanks for that rich.

Could anyone enlighten me as to what this part does to see if it is the cause of my engine hesitation at light throttle and high idle tick over?
 

MJ

Public transport abuser
Apr 22, 2008
5,508
13
Manchester
m.facebook.com
Its part of the vacuum control system. There should be 3 in the surrounding area:

1. for turbo boost control
2. for egr regulation control
3. for general vacuum control

The one you are reffering to is the one in the middle (inside the black metal housing).
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
VAGcat says it's part 15 in this diagram.

131300.png


1J0906283C
electro change-over valve

The only function I know of for such a valve on a TDI engine is the control of the antishudder flap in the inlet, just upstream of the EGR.

On my engine (ASV) the vacuum changeover solenoid is mounted on the inlet manifold, close to the flap actuator. Perhaps on yours it's on the firewall along with the other vacuum solenoids? A picture would confirm.

Alternatively, can you tell us if it has an electrical connector and two pneumatic pipes (vacuum/air pressure)? If so, then it's almost certainly the antishudder valve controller.

Your question is very specifid "Could anyone enlighten me as to what this part does to see if it is the cause of my engine hesitation at light throttle and high idle tick over? " Why do you suspect this part? Has it been changed, damaged or disconnected recently?

The antishudder valve is normally open and only closes for a second or two when the engine is turned off. This is to reduce the volume of air sucked into the now-dead engine, which has to be compressed by the energy from the flywheel. Less air means less pressure and less shudder. I'm not sure how this could cause issues at idle or low revs.

Made in USA? :confused: Where was the car made?
 

batman3000

Guest
Thanks for the replays.

Will try and upload a picture of my engine bay asap. I am convinced that my engine hesitation at light throttle has something to do with one of these three solenoid units. When I swapped over the egr solenoid and the boost solenoid it stopped my engine hesitation for two days and then it came back. I have since changed both the egr pressure converter and the boost pressure converter with brand new genuine seat parts. When I changed the egr I lost all power in my engine and it only returned when I replaced the boost solenoid also.
I am clutching at straws as to what the problem could be and can only think that it must be that change over solenoid as they are all interlinked.
Other symptoms of my car are; its starts rough in the cold taking several cranks of the engine.
On cold starts the revs needle drops to 800rpm for a split second and then goes up to 1000 rpm and only drops down to 900rpm when I start putting the lights and heaters on. I have had my alternator checked several times on vag com. No fault codes.
And the annoying one of hesitating at light throttle between 1000 rpm and 2000rpm.
Oh and I changed the MAF as well.
And no split pipes as I have checked and re-checked.
Any help and guidance would be much appreciated.
 

Muttley

Catch that diesel!
Mar 17, 2006
4,987
31
North Kent
There is a diagram of the pneumatic system in this thread in the FAQ. It may help to illustrate how the systems are interconnected.

Some guesswork follows:

Is the vacuum pump (part of the tandem pump on the end of the cam cover) providing enough vacuum, and are there any leaks in the vacuum side of things? How reliable is the brake servo assistance?

Are any of the hoses clogged, and are the various check valves and one-way valves doing what they should be?

The variable-geometry vanes in the turbine will be expected to be in the closed position at idle and low revs. Sticking turbo vanes or a failing actuator could cause erratic performance.

All guesswork though, and not easy to diagnose at a distance.
 

batman3000

Guest
Have taken a photograph of the three units but have no idea how to upload it as I am computer illiterate.

The anti-shudder valve must not be producing enough pressure hence why the car does not shudder when turned off. It is working as when you start the car it opens and if you close it by pushing the plunger down it stalls the engine.

Is there anyway to diagnose sticking turbo vanes or a failing actuator by yourself or is it a garage job?
 
Jan 8, 2008
528
0
Portsmouth
I know this thread is quite old but the mist relevant to me! I've completely removed the egr system and removed the n18 valve, this throws a code on vag com but doesn't bother me! The n75 and n18 where next together and there is one more valve very close to the egr (well egr bypass) pipe, actualy on the engine I think, Is this for the anti shudder valve and can I remove it and relocate the pipes to tidy up some more!?

Thanks
 
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