Oil temp gauge weird readings (just installed)

Nov 10, 2004
1,000
0
Colchester, Essex
Hey folks,

After scratching our hands to bits installing an oil temp gauge sensor today for both myself and Pulsebass on here, both of us now have strange, clearly incorrect readings.

The gauges are Proshift, and came with a 1/8npt sender, so I purchased a 1/8 to m10x1converter.

Basically, that part all fits perfectly, there are 2 wires coming from the sender, red and black, with a bullet connector on each.

I've wired them up, but somewhere somethings clearly wrong, whether its the grounding or not im not sure, but mine is reading 110 degrees C on a stone cold engine, my friends was 70 on a stone cold engine.

Would the fact I have scotch-locked the connectors in the engine bay instead of bullet connectors have anything to do with it?
We never had any bullet connectors for the extending wire, so I just scotch-locked them onto the sender wire.

The sender wire was a cotton type wire, rather than the normal electrical wire sort.

I haven't cut the bullet ends off the sender wire so can always use them in case.

Any ideas?

PS> The electrical lighting side of things all work perfectly, which tends to point it to be one of the sender wires, be it not grounded, or just not connected properly...?
 

lemonslap

In The Know
Mar 14, 2009
320
1
Kent
Scotch locks do tend to cause higher resistance but that would give a lower reading, maybe as you say its grounding out or its a duff sender?
 
Nov 10, 2004
1,000
0
Colchester, Essex
pre-heated oil no good for me, I drive it like its a 1l most of the time LOL!

Senders are OK as it's happening to both of our cars.

I think its definately the fact I should use bullet connectors on the sender as when I turned my lights on, the gauge went off the scale lol. So definately bad wiring!
 
Nov 10, 2004
1,000
0
Colchester, Essex
Hey folks, just been out and put the bullet connectors on still no joy.

One thing i've noticed, is when I adjust the dimmer switch, the light fades darker and brighter as it should depending on the setting, but the needle in the oil temp gauge goes right to the max when I put the dimmer on max, and almost to the bottom when I put dimmer on minimum!

Heres how i've wired them;

Boost gauge -

Black wire - Backlight negative
Vac - DV T-Piece
Red wire - Backlight postive
Amber wire - Backlight postive ( this is for gauge lighting).
White wire - unused as do not want white light.

ALL OK.


Oil temp gauge ...

Red / Black / Amber - as above

Green (Temp sender wire from gauge) = Straight to temp sender wire RED + in engine bay.

Black from temp sender = in engine bay = Backlight negative.

Im about to go and try connecting the black wire from the sender directly to the - battery terminal...
 
Nov 10, 2004
1,000
0
Colchester, Essex
Bumpage folks any ideas? The battery thing didnt work. Lol.
The only thing left to try is to wire the sender positive wire to the switched live by itself.
 

wee_john 20vt

yellow ibiza 1.8 20vt
Jan 12, 2009
62
0
Falkirk, Central Scotland
what is it suppose to sit at when your car is heated up after say 10 to 15min or more drive mines sits at about 110 120 but minimum when i start on cold also just a little of subject my boost gauge when idle sits at around 27 vac and boosts to 21psi could someone tell me if this is right

cheers john
 
Feb 25, 2007
1,068
0
cheshire
sounds like you have wired it up wrong. the wire going to the dimmer switch should go to the temp sensor and teh one from the temp sensor to the dimmer switch?
 
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