No start, dash flickering, remote central locking not working properly

Mar 18, 2025
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I'm new to this forum - I found it through Google search after trying to figure out what's wrong with wife's car.

Car is a 15 plate Leon - I believe it's a 1.2 TSI.
MOT was today - dropped the car in, no problems.
No running problems at MOT station.
Needed 2 new tyres - drove to tyre place - all ok.
Got back from tyre place, parked in drive, no indication of any problem.
Wife got in car 30 mins later to go collect daughter, and it's 100% dead.

Remote central locking tries to do something, but not all doors (and boot) unlock. This is intermittent - mostly it won't unlock, but maybe once in every 5 or 10 times it will fully unlock.
It won't start. Turn the key, and the engine doesn't even try - the dash comes on, but flickers. Sometimes loads of warning will come on (tyre pressure, ignition on warning) but still won't start.
Radio is not responsive, either. Normally we can sit in the car without keys in the ignition, but turn the radio on - but at the moment it's 50/50 whether it'll come on or just stay dark.
During this episode (but not before the madness started) wife has seen a "12V low" warning - and given all the other weirdness, I thought maybe the battery has suddenly fully discharged (it's EFB type, so I'm charging it on a CTEK now). My charger says battery is low, but according to the charger the battery doesn't appear to be completely dead - I'd have expected the car to turn over slowly if the battery was on its way out (??) But at the moment: nothing. Bought the car from an approved dealer a few (3 or 4) years ago - battery is probably original, so ~10 years old now.
Tried both key fobs, but no difference.
With the bonnet down but not closed properly, the car chirps when the central locking works - never heard this before, but maybe that's normal if the bonnet isn't closed properly (??)
When we first noticed there was a problem, there was some weird "warbling" coming from the car (from under the bonnet, I think - it sounded electronic, but I can't be 100% that it came from the car (it was such a weird noise that I couldn't imagine it was the car at first, and thought it might be some sort of bird - but given the other weird symptoms I wonder if the was something electronic going on - and possibly not something happy and nice).

I'm a bit nervous that something serious and expensive may have failed. It seems pretty dead 😬 I'll leave it to charge for a few hours (my charger has an AGM setting, but I've just set it to regular car battery given that the battery says EFB on it). Kind of hoping it's just a dead battery, but I'm surprised there was no warning - and the battery indicator on the battery says that the battery is still ok. Maybe a couple of hours on charge will fix it - but normally (on my much older car) I can actually start the car when it's plugged into the charger - but not so with the Leon.

Any ideas what might be up, or what tests or resets I can try to figure out what's happening?

Thanks in advance!
Dan.

EDITED TO ADD:
The chirp is not because the bonnet is open as bonnet is now clicked shut. The battery is still connected to a charger - but unsure if that would cause the chirp.
The chirp happens on unlock - when the fob works.
When the fob doesn't work there are whirring noises (sounds like from the door locks) as if they're trying - and failing - to do something). When the fob works, then the indicators flash as normal - but when the fob doesn't work, then there's either nothing or an incorrect sequence of flashes from the indicators (I think it should be double flash on lock, and single flash on unlock - but when the fob isn't working, then I either get nothing at all, or just a single flash regardless whether trying to lock or unlock).
When turning the key in the ignition, and all the lights on the dash are flickering, it's as if the car is trying (and failing) to boot up. I can hear a kind of buzzing noise as if it's trying to boot up, but not getting there. It's almost like there is not enough power to boot up, or there's a loose/partial connection to something somewhere.

Could there be a loose connection to something major somewhere? Is there a huge multiplug somewhere accessible that I can check is properly connected or something? Or am I panicking over nothing, and this is just a dead battery?

Battery has been on charge for a while, and it *should* have enough juice to at least *try* to turn, but so far nothing has changed. Whether or not the battery charge is low enough to cause this, I don't think charging it is helping any.
 
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Mar 18, 2025
14
3
It certainly sounds like a dead battery, and at 10 years old it's well past it's life!! Try Tanya Batteries, usually good prices with fast delivery.
Thanks, dude - I'll give that a try. I'm cautious about throwing £100-odd at it if it might be something else, but if a dead battery might cause this (even with no warning at all!!) then I'll get a new one and see how I fare.

Thanks again. I'm panicking a little, but if it's a dead battery then hopefully that's an easy fix!
 
Last edited:

Walone

Active Member
Feb 10, 2016
1,689
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Near Heathrow
Thanks, dude - I'll give that a try. I'm cautious about throwing £100-odd at it if it might be something else, but if a dead battery might cause this (even with no warning at all!!) then I'll get a new one and see how I fare.

Thanks again. I'm panicking a little, but if it's a dead battery than hopefully that's an easy fix!
Even if it's not the battery you can be sure at 10 years old it will fail sooner rather than later! You will have to have the battery coded after fitting.
 
Mar 18, 2025
14
3
Even if it's not the battery you can be sure at 10 years old it will fail sooner rather than later! You will have to have the battery coded after fitting.
Dang - even a like for like replacement battery needs coding? Sounds like if I change the battery myself, I'm still going to need to visit a dealer... ?
 
Mar 18, 2025
14
3
Ok, after my charger tells me that the battery is pretty much fully charged the Leon is still dead 😬 I can't even unlock it - it tries to unlock, and the interior lights flicker - but the doors won't unlock so I can't get the bonnet up to disconnect the rest of the charger from the battery. The chirp I mentioned? I think that might be the alarm trying to sound. A couple of times now the alarm has sounded for a few seconds when I've been trying to lock/unlock - so given that it's not heading into the evening, I'm not going to faff anymore for fear of actually setting the alarm off and having it blaring for a few hours until the RASC can get here.

My charger should be able to tell me if the battery wasn't/isn't holding charge, and I think my charger would also tell me if there's an internal fault (I'm using a CTEK MXS 5.0). I'm charging what I assume is the main and only battery - is there an auxiliary battery somewhere, maybe??

Looks like I'm going to be taking a day off work this week and getting the RAC out to get the car towed to the local dealership 😥
 
Mar 18, 2025
14
3
I know that I can pop the covers off the door handles and use the key to manually unlock. I think that may set off the alarm - if that's the case, then in theory would turning the key in the ignition stop the alarm? I don't want to set the alarm off and then having it sounding for ages - certainly not in the evening, but ideally not during the day either 😊 Given that the fob is not working reliably, can anyone tell me how I'd use the key to stop the alarm if i did indeed manage to trigger it?

I'm going to have to get inside the car if/when the RAC gets here, which is the only reason I'm asking...
 

Walone

Active Member
Feb 10, 2016
1,689
499
Near Heathrow
I know that I can pop the covers off the door handles and use the key to manually unlock. I think that may set off the alarm - if that's the case, then in theory would turning the key in the ignition stop the alarm? I don't want to set the alarm off and then having it sounding for ages - certainly not in the evening, but ideally not during the day either 😊 Given that the fob is not working reliably, can anyone tell me how I'd use the key to stop the alarm if i did indeed manage to trigger it?

I'm going to have to get inside the car if/when the RAC gets here, which is the only reason I'm asking...
When you unlock the drivers door with the key, you have 15 seconds to switch the ignition on to stop the alarm sounding. I think that is correct.
 
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Mar 18, 2025
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Nice - thanks, dude. I wonder what might happen if the ignition doesn't come on 😬 I've invested in a booster pack to see if I can start it (to be double-sure it's not just a dead battery), otherwise it's RAC and/or recovery to local dealer.
 

Craig.

The artist formally known as ViperSlider
Mar 26, 2024
265
225
Cardiff, S.Wales
What was the voltage in the battery before charging?

What was the voltage in the battery after charging and during ignition switch on and crank attempt?

Any fault codes in the car before disconnecting the battery?

Sounds like a cell has died inside the battery but without the above data, it's hard to be sure.

If your battery is 10 years old then it's way beyond the average service life and should be changed for an OEM or high quality battery such as Varta or Exide.

Coding to the car is needed but it won't prevent the car from starting or being able to be driven. It's for the charge profile.
 
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Mar 18, 2025
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I didn't disconnect the battery to charge it - my charger can charge the battery while it's still connected. The dash gives (or gave) various errors (we get an ignition on alarm, and we get all warning lights coming on) - wife noted down a warning that said "Event 12V battery low", but I've not seen that one). The warnings and alarms seem to be pretty much random though.

When I hooked up my charger, it gives me a visual indication by way of number of lights (to indicate which bit of the charge it's doing). One light would be "battery completely discharged" (and the charger would try to bring it back to life). Seven lights means fully charged. When I hooked it up, it was at 3rd light - battery partially discharged - and the charge cycle would then be in "bulk charge" mode, I think, On my own car (no electronics whatsoever) if the charger is connected than I can actually start the car pretty much regardless what the battery charge state is. On the Leon the symptoms don't change when the charger is connected - and even after a couple of hours when the charger says the battery is fully charged, the symptoms are no different.

It'd be awesome of this is just an internal failure in the battery. I checked out Tanya yesterday, and a Bosch or Varta is just over £100. I'd like to be able to keep the radio settings - looks like I can buy a Draper gadget that I can plug into the OBD port to maintain settings while I switch the battery - but I don't know where the ODB port is - can you guys tell me (and can you guys tell me if it's a good/bad idea to use a code-saver gadget)? Given the battery age - and advice from this thread - I'm thinking maybe I should just bite the bullet and get a new battery regardless, even if it might not necessarily fix this problem (though obviously I hope it does!) Good news that the can will still be driveable before the battery is coded - thanks for that.
 

tracktoy

Active Member
Jun 11, 2023
704
544
I presume its a UK Car if so the OBD Port is on the drivers side to the right of the steering wheel under the dash.

Cant recall if you can open the passenger door when the battery is dead but if you cant then be warned you have to be forcefull on pulling the bonnet latch to get the bonnet open.
 
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Mar 18, 2025
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It is Tayna Batteries, not Tanya Batteries.

tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/
Sorry - typo 😆 Yep, that's where I was at yesterday. My plan is: work from home tomorrow (Thursday) and call RAC first thing. Explain that I tried to charge the battery, but car is still dead. Maybe they can do a drop test (or whatever) on the battery to see whether a cell has failed... But if they set the alarm off, then neighbours will at least see that the RAC is onsite and it's being dealt with (annoying though the alarm will undoubtedly be). Hopefully that will be kinder than setting the alarm off myself, and THEN calling RAC and waiting for 3+ hours (potentially with alarm sounding) until they arrive 😬

If they can confirm the battery is dead, then I'll get a replacement and fit it once it arrives (ideally using an OBD port gadget to save the settings). If RAC say battery checks out, but something more sinister is going on, then I'll get it recovered to our local garage of choice (not the main dealer where we bought the car, as we had a pretty bad experience with them each of the only two times we've needed to go back!) Just hoping it's not too sinister - if the ECU is somehow cooked (??) then I'm not sure what next. When ours comes on, it still shows mileage, correct time, and all the other bits and bobs - so hopefully the ECU is *not* cooked, but if a replacement is needed then we can hopefully get data transferred from our existing one into a used replacement. Don't know if that's even possible. But meanwhile let's just hope it's a failed battery 🤞

Thanks everyone for info and advice. Very much appreciated!
 
Mar 18, 2025
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Hi everyone,

I wanted to let you know the outcome. Long story short*, RAC turned up, tested the battery and confirmed it was dead. They got a booster pack on it and everything was normal again: I could use the fob to stop the alarm, and then start the car - all good. Now I just need to wait for the replacement battery from Tayna (I went with a Varta).

I'll create a new thread about coding the car to the new battery once I've installed it.

Thanks again to everyone for help and advice. I was really pretty worried about this - my car (and all my previous cars) is (and pretty much all have been) really old, so when the battery goes there's none of this malarkey with lights flickering, alarms going off on the dash, weird noises for the engine bay (except the engine, for my cars!) and all round general mayhem. I was properly freaked out and I thought something extremely serious (and extremely expensive) had happened! But now I know what to expect in future the next time a battery fails in a modern car 😎

Cheers!
Dan.

*Slightly longer story, for those interested:
Having logged the call with the RAC, they called back nearer the estimated arrival time and asked for more details. They asked if I could get into the car, and I explained that last time I'd tried to use the fob, the alarm sounded for a few seconds and I'd not tried it since as I didn't want to set it off and annoy my neighbours. He said no worries - it'll all be fine. I tried the fob, and the alarm immediately sounded. Guy on phone says can you get into the car and just lock the doors to stop the alarm - so I popped the lock cover and unlocked it manually... But, of course, there was not enough power to lock the doors from the inside so I couldn't stop the alarm. Guy on phone said "no problem sir, just turn on the ignition". Arrrrggggghhh. Not enough power to turn on the ignition, so alarm is still sounding. He asked if I can disconnect the battery and I said yeah, but isn't there a battery backup for the alarm?? He said just disconnect the battery and see how we go. So I did - after some frantic searching for my keys so I could get tools out of my car - and the alarm did actually stop shortly after the battery was unhooked (which was cool, but a bit of a surprise as I thought the backup would keep it running even without the main battery connected - but whatever). When the actual RAC patrol guy arrived about 20 mins later, he also reckoned there would be a battery backup and was surprised that the alarm had stopped.
 
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Walone

Active Member
Feb 10, 2016
1,689
499
Near Heathrow
It'd be awesome of this is just an internal failure in the battery. I checked out Tanya yesterday, and a Bosch or Varta is just over £100. I'd like to be able to keep the radio settings - looks like I can buy a Draper gadget that I can plug into the OBD port to maintain settings while I switch the battery - but I don't know where the ODB port is - can you guys tell me (and can you guys tell me if it's a good/bad idea to use a code-saver gadget)? Given the battery age - and advice from this thread - I'm thinking maybe I should just bite the bullet and get a new battery regardless, even if it might not necessarily fix this problem (though obviously I hope it does!) Good news that the can will still be driveable before the battery is coded - thanks for that.
You don't need a 'Code-saver', the radio retains the memories.
 
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cairus

Active Member
Jun 4, 2024
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To be clear, the gateway is the CP master and knows from the serial number that the correct radio is installed. The gateway then reports to the radio that everything is OK, and everything is running.
 
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DaveS

Active Member
Jan 23, 2022
36
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FWIW the battery on my car died a few months back with pretty much the same symptoms. It was also 10 years old. The fitted battery was Exide EFB, so I replaced it with another Exide EFB and coded it myself. No settings for the radio were lost or for anything else. There was no warning of failure for the old battery, it just died. The stop/start may have been a bit less keen to kick in but it still did work until the end. I know conventional wisdom is that the batteries only last 6 years or so, but my experience on this and my previous Leon is that closer to 10 years is possible.
 
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