Newman Cams

[F2 Stu]

After some indecision with what camshafts to get for the Cordoba, I contacted Newman cams as they were local and was invited for a factory tour.

So last Thursday I mosey'd down there, got shown round the works - not alot happening as its a slow time of year for them. Loads of machinery everywhere from manual cam grinders to CNC ones - they even fired up one of their CNC plants for a demonstration. Very interesting - shed some light on some of the difficultys I had with Piper on the Ibiza

After the tour we got down to discussing my order, very helpful and very well priced for something that was being made to my requirements.

Timescale wise I was invited to pick them up the next day as they wernt that busy - Based on experience with most 3rd party tuners I took the ETA with a pinch of

Well, they arrived today. :yikes: even with sprockets.

Pleased as punch.

 

[WeeJase]

so what spec are they stu?

 

[F2 Stu]

Cant remember exactly - split duration with a fruitier exhuast cam.

 

[(beeza gti)]

how lucky are you m8,bet it was well intresting to see the factory.seem a very decent company,what sort of price did you have them for?

 

[F2 Stu]

£300 + Vat, they'll even clone a shrick too

 

[(beeza gti)]

cool,sounds really good.did they come as a kit form like the piper or kent kits?
i want to sort the top end out on my engine i.e port and polish
may i ask what work youve done to yours m8? and any advice.

 

[F2 Stu]

Just the shafts on their own, no other gubbins you'd get from a kent or piper kit

I will be running a full stainless exhuast with tubeller manifold & race cat, gas flowed & ported head with these cams and Badger5 TB's hoping to aheive somthing around the 200bhp mark,

the only advice I can give is dont go anything lairyer than a 260-264 duration as the stock manegement wont cope with anything more.

 

[(beeza gti)]

nice,spending a bit of money on it then,cant beat the sound of tb's.who did the head work for you? and what about re-mapping if it can be done.

 

[F2 Stu]

Place in Telford, cant remember.

 

[(beeza gti)]

no worries,just finding it hard to find any decent engine tuners here in south wales.

thanks

 

[F2 Stu]

TSR will be you nearest for 16v's

 

[ibizacupra]

£300 + Vat, they'll even clone a shrick too

LOL, copyists.

 

[RobT]

Interesting choice - would like to hear what spec you have gone for - picking cams on duration alone is not the b-all and end-all - the only reason we know schrick 268's (especially inlet) are too much for an abf ecu is that its been tried. With other cams who knows - lots of cam manufacturers quote durations at different lifts and thus its really hard to compare between them.

How are you going to time the cams given they are split duration and you have hydraulic lifters ?

Rob

 

[ibizacupra]

stopwatch?

(I'll get me coat)

 

[max_torque]

How are you going to time the cams given they are split duration and you have hydraulic lifters ?

Rob

i never bother to time cams acurately, just stick 'em in, check that the valves don't hit the pistons (allow lots of clearance for hydraulic lifters!) then get the car onto a dyno, run it, tweek the cams 5deg one way, if it makes more power keep going that way, if not go back the other!

(OK, OK, it probably worth doing a dummy build with a hydraulic lifter machined out and shimmed (or filled with epoxy!) to get a handle on the limits of retard / advance before the valves touch anything!)

 

[F2 Stu]

Ive gone for a 264/276 set up, to unsure its daily driver friendly rather than outright power.

I have hydrualic followers on order - wasn't aware theres an issue with split duration Ive got a vernier pulley think, I'll get a vernier sprocket too.

Cam timing is somthing I've yet read into great detail especially as I'm now paranoid about things touching

 

[RobT]

i never bother to time cams acurately, just stick 'em in, check that the valves don't hit the pistons (allow lots of clearance for hydraulic lifters!) then get the car onto a dyno, run it, tweek the cams 5deg one way, if it makes more power keep going that way, if not go back the other!

(OK, OK, it probably worth doing a dummy build with a hydraulic lifter machined out and shimmed (or filled with epoxy!) to get a handle on the limits of retard / advance before the valves touch anything!)

Well dodgy - might work with a turbo engine with loads of piston clearance but with a higher compression engine.....wouldn't do this myself.....busted engine if you get it wrong.....on a VW 16V the cam-to-cam timing is by gears and chain under the rocker cover so its not exactly easy to change, not like when both pullies are external. Also, its likely the timing marks, if there are any, will be machined for a matching pair of cams not split durations - what you really need is one of the cam-to-cam grears to be a vernier so the lobe center angle can be set right - but this is actually very hard to do with hydraulic lifters

Have fun

Rob

 

[F2 Stu]

Gulp.

There are timing marks on the sprockets as in the normal way of setting up the shafts

Just trying to get my head around how & why a split duration affects the timing - any suggestions on any literature?

I assume the problem with the hydrualic lifters is the fact they're variable and you cant judge the amount of Valve travel at any particular time (pardon my terminology) until the lifters have oil in them when the engine is fired up for the first time?

 

[RobT]

Are they original VW sprockets ? if so, the timing marks will be in wrong place - best check with them

 

[F2 Stu]

No, compairing them with a genuine vw part the little '0's are in slighty different places, what I do know is the 'blanks' they buy in are all pre machined including the keyways barring the lobes.

Think I'll get somebody else to start in up when its all fitted.

'Fire in the Hole!'