Newbie Cupra Owner

ITech

Guest
Hi Guys,

Just became a Cupra owner for the first time. I bought the car 10 days ago from an independant dealer after trading in my Astra G 1.8SRI. I have bought a 53 Cupra 180 in silver.

I am enjoying the car as it is my first turbo car but I do have a couple of issues that I would like some advice with please.

Firstly, when starting the car from cold the car is very jerky as if it is going to stall or cut out, this goes on for a couple of minutes then it comes good again. This issue has got progressively worse over the last week. At first it wasn't too bad so I assumed it was just me getting used to the bite etc but now it seems there is a problem.

Also when turning right at full lock once I have gone past roughly 90 degrees turn there is a loud grinding noise, is this simply the tyre rubbing on the wheel arch though they are the standard alloys and the car has not been lowered.

My car has a 3 month warranty but wondered if any of you guys can help before I give the garage a ring as I am not yet sure what exactly is covered under the warranty.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

ITech

Guest
Thanks for the reply. Yeah car is totally standard or best to my knowledge i.e standard wheels car looks same ride height as average cupra etc.
 

ITech

Guest
Very little i'm affraid. I'm not the most mechanically minded person and don't tend to dabble too much whith cars when I get issues.
 

Willie

LCR Track car
Aug 6, 2004
8,939
1
Sunny Scotland
Very little i'm affraid. I'm not the most mechanically minded person and don't tend to dabble too much whith cars when I get issues.
Unless you have a mate that knows a bit about cars just take it back to the garage.
no point us telling you bits and piece then when you get questioned at the garage you don't have any mechanical knowledge to back this statement up with
 

ITech

Guest
I can't take it back to the garage as it is a 4 hour drive away. I have an agreement that any work carried out under warranty can be done locally. I was just after some advice on what people thought the problems maybe so that I can call the garage and say "I think I have this problem, is it covered under warranty?"
 

adam cupra 20vt

Built Not Bought.
Mar 31, 2005
6,162
2
Mud Hut
The noise on start up sounds like the secondary air injection system. It comes on when you first start the engine to pump air around to reduce emmisions [when cold] I don't think it makes the car jerky to drive tho although I wouldn't know as I always wait for it to cut out before driving.

As Willie said it shouldn't grind on standard set up so I'd take it back and let them sort it :)

Edit just say its 4 hrs away....surely they will have to pay for you to take it locally then?
 

ITech

Guest
Thanks for the advice mate. Will take it to the garage and post back with the results as after searching the forum it seems the jerking on start is a very common issue with mixed solutions.
 

james walker

cooling is the key people
May 24, 2007
5,121
2
retford notts
do ypu let the revs drop to sub 1k before driving?

also a dodgy maf could cause jerkyness

as far as the grinding noise on lock.. does it sound metal on metal? if so cv joint could be empty of grease

if sounds like a whale type noise, could be the power steering pump/or fluid level low.

secondary air pump mainly vibrates due to crap vw rivets in the housing popping out.


the ko3s is a naturally low rev jerky turbo, but not so noticeably... i would go for maf as these are common failure with no woarning light

also, when was the last service done and what mileage is it on?
 

ITech

Guest
I will try and let the revs drop to see what difference it makes. It does sound like metal on metal on full lock.

I will mention the maf to the garage, would you say that was a majour components as only major parts are covered under my warranty.

Car has 52k on. When I bought the car last week the garage said they had serviced it two days before and they have stamped the book. It was also MOT'd on the same day which it failed due to an exhaust bracket which has now been sorted.
 
Jun 26, 2008
1,299
1
Just round the corner.
I can't take it back to the garage as it is a 4 hour drive away. I have an agreement that any work carried out under warranty can be done locally. I was just after some advice on what people thought the problems maybe so that I can call the garage and say "I think I have this problem, is it covered under warranty?"

Maybe worth taking to a local garage, to let them have a look.
My fan comes on and dependant on air temp stays on for a minute or two.
Is this agreement in writing, about having a local garage repair warranty issues?
I've never heard of this before.
 

smithygcupra

Cymru am Byth
May 25, 2008
271
0
Newport
When starting your engine from cold it will sound alot louder... as said above by someone the secondary air pump....this is to aid heating the oil up slightly so it can circulate the turbo properly as not to cause damage..... when you drive off without letting the car go through the warm up phase and you give it enough power to let the turbo boost up slightly the ecu will cut the boost i.e the jerky jerky drivey drivey ......

and as for it getting worse the last week... the weather has been alot colder than what it was so on initial start up the oil is going to be cooler....so will take longer to heat..

when you start the car from cold it will idle at say 1200-1300 rpm to warm up.... leave it warm up before you drive off.... it will only take a minute-ish and then it will return to normal idle and will be quieter.... so give it a try...

I let my car go through the warm up phase everyday

as for the grinding on full lock... could be an umber of things... get under the car and have a little look at cv boots etc... but if its under warranty just take it back and get the garage to do it... its easier...


hope this helps
 

james walker

cooling is the key people
May 24, 2007
5,121
2
retford notts
secondary air pump doesnt heat the oil mate, it blows warm air over the cat to regulate the temp quicker to lower emissions...

maf wont be covered as its a wear and tear item.

metal on metal will more than likely be cv joints, the boot may have slipped, cracked allowing all the grease out so the bearings will be grinding on the joint.

check the boots, you will notice if their split, as there will be grease evident.

could be the front arb bush perished allowing the arb to rub on the driveshaft aswell.
 

ITech

Guest
Thanks for all the comments guys.

I started the car this morning and it idled at 1200, I let it rest to 800 before driving and it drove really smooth. So from what you guys are telling me, there isn't a problem this is just the way the car is designed?

in answer to markgb I don't have the agreement in writing mate but iv'e spoke to them over the phone and they said as long as my local garage is VAT registered then they will settle the bill for any major components that fail. I also had this agreement on my previous car.

So I think I will just take it to the garage for the grinding on full lock issue.
 
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