New mk2 gti 16v owner - Help please.

[stevo125]

Hi all. I'm new around here, just got myself a mk2 gti 16v. Got a few little issues to sort out so any pointers on the following would be most helpful, however my main request at the present time is to get some part numbers if possible.

My car has following issues:

-Only have 1 key, do not have the ID tag thingy, how and where can I get another key?
-Central locking does not work from key or fob. (fob makes lights flash but does not activate the locks on any door) - no clue on this one
-ABS light is intermittently showing - gunked up sensor(s)?
-Exhaust is very hollow and throaty sounding, no obvious holes or anything. Sounds like a chavy corsa



And I need to replace the flowing two parts so could do with part numbers for Seat if poss-

-Plastic orange cap that the dip stick clips into - mine has snapped and therefore have minor oil leakage from here.

-Rubber hose running horizontal from front of engine onto vertical fitting under a black plastic section, right at the top front left of the engine. The hose is around 10-12inches in length, 2 inch diameter at the engine end and 1inch or less diameter at the other end. It appears to be some sort of low pressure exhaust return to the air intake? - Engine runs fine with it severed anyway!

Thanks in advance for any replies, Steve.

 

[Fl@pper]

-Only have 1 key, do not have the ID tag thingy, how and where can I get another key?

local locksmiths and ask if they can cut a blank and 'clone' the current immob chip, be cheapest/easiest way

-Central locking does not work from key or fob.

no easy one to this as the whole system is pnematic and has a lot of possible parts but can i ask does it work at all from the passenger door at all ? + OSR 1/4 see if teh pump itself is there + connected

-ABS light is intermittently showing - gunked up sensor(s)?

possible but a check with vag-com will narrow down your search, known for sensors but to be honest more common for the wires breaking first so once a diagnostic points to a corner or two check the wires first

-Exhaust is very hollow and throaty sounding, no obvious holes or anything. Sounds like a chavy corsa

either an aftermarket one or theres' more missing than you can see i would guess

-Plastic orange cap that the dip stick clips into - mine has snapped and therefore have minor oil leakage from here.

assuming it's a 2.0 16V ABF engine

#38 049103634 - tube for oil dipstick

#39 053103663 - guide funnel

-Rubber hose running horizontal from front of engine onto vertical fitting under a black plastic section

sounds liek a breather hose - ill try and get a decent engine pic to choose from

 

[stevo125]

local locksmiths and ask if they can cut a blank and 'clone' the current immob chip, be cheapest/easiest way

Sorry to appear ignorant, but how would I go about cloning the immob chip?


no easy one to this as the whole system is pnematic and has a lot of possible parts but can i ask does it work at all from the passenger door at all ? + OSR 1/4 see if teh pump itself is there + connected
Shall check this later and post back

possible but a check with vag-com will narrow down your search, known for sensors but to be honest more common for the wires breaking first so once a diagnostic points to a corner or two check the wires first
Presume I can get a vag-com from ebay? or am i best running round to a local VW place?


either an aftermarket one or theres' more missing than you can see i would guess

I fear it may be an aftermarket - ill have to get under it i guess


assuming it's a 2.0 16V ABF engine

#38 049103634 - tube for oil dipstick

#39 053103663 - guide funnel


Perfect thanks!


sounds liek a breather hose - ill try and get a decent engine pic to choose from

Possibly? I thought possibly a hot air feed of some sort - normally used to aid cold starts I thought?



Thanks for being so helpful, so quickly

 

[stevo125]

Ok, Just been and checked. Locking does not work from either door

Checked the rear 1/4 by fuel tank. Pump is there and connected up, wedged in the gap with some dodgy foam - classy!

 

[Fl@pper]

Checked the rear 1/4 by fuel tank. Pump is there and connected up, wedged in the gap with some dodgy foam - classy!

standard fit that lol not kidding

cloning is something most locksmiths can do nowadays, they take the details of the working immob chip in your one key and copy/clone to a new one

as far as he car is concerned it's the same 1 key so you don't get hassles with reprogramming chips etc

 

[stevo125]

standard fit that lol not kidding

cloning is something most locksmiths can do nowadays, they take the details of the working immob chip in your one key and copy/clone to a new one

as far as he car is concerned it's the same 1 key so you don't get hassles with reprogramming chips etc

Lol. well I need a new bit of foam if there is a part code for such a thing? Mines torn in half!

And as for the key, literally stroll into a lock smiths in the local town center and they should be able to do it?

And as for keys I guess ebay is my best bet? Or is a locksmith likely to carry those also?

Cheers again.

 

[Fl@pper]

i'd grab ya key sand head for a local place more modern the better really

locking is a whole other story though sadly

 

[stevo125]

i'd grab ya key sand head for a local place more modern the better really

locking is a whole other story though sadly

Could you elaborate in the locking comment?

I do currently have just a cutting of the key itself which I can lock and unlock the door with so I don't quite follow what you mean?

Any clues on where to look next on the central locking? Or is that what you meant?

Seems the pump is in place and is connected up, but no sign of it making any effort to activate locks.

 

[Fl@pper]

key wise will open o worries but there is a small chip inside with a passive immobiliser, without that setup/programmed/cloned it won't run the car

one of 2 ways locking wise

check batteries in remote are 2.95v+ at least then try a remote reprogram

to program / reprogram

1 ignition on to red lights on dash
2 turn off immediately and pull key out
3 HOLD 1 of the buttons down (dont matter which)
4 PRESS the other 3 times ( with a SLIGHT pause) 1 . 2 . 3
5 watch led on key (should flash) and doors usually try lock/unlock
6 turn ignition key back on to red lights and wait 5 sec
7 key out again and test operation

worth a few tries with buttons swapped over - if the led on key flashes 5 times you know thats trying to code up - or even test batteries for at least 2.95v minimum - any lower they usually work just the led and lack signal strength

99/100 times its all that is needed - seriously - and get in the habit too i used to have to keep doing mine about every 9/10 months


last resort - new remote - or better still test the car using a mates just make sure you reprogram it back to his car after you used it

if that appear ok dsconnect the pump's air pipes only to see if the remote is working the pump directly

2nd option is to stripe each lock/door in turn to find out what's blocking it, that's if the pump works at all of course

 

[truCido]

first port of call...check your fuses for the central locking, check the easy things first!

 

[stevo125]

Have checked the pump again this evening, it appears that the connection on the pump has become loose, having refitted the plug the pump now functions when turning the key in either door, or when using the remote buttons - However, both doors still fail to lock

Where should I be looking next please.

Thanks.

 

[j.cavo]

Have checked the pump again this evening, it appears that the connection on the pump has become loose, having refitted the plug the pump now functions when turning the key in either door, or when using the remote buttons - However, both doors still fail to lock

Where should I be looking next please.

Thanks.

take the door handles off and have a look i suspect the locking pin maybe fitted wrong preventing the doors from locking also try sparying the lock catch on the door with sum wd40 maybe gunked up or bent

 

[Fl@pper]

are all the coloured pipes connected ?

how long does the pump operate for when it does go off ?

 

[stevo125]

are all the coloured pipes connected ?

how long does the pump operate for when it does go off ?

All pipes appear to be connected, If i crush the red one (ie to isolate it) then the driver door locks but the passenger door does not. This would suggest that the pipework to the passenger door is broken somewhere. - So then, how the hell do I change that pipe!
I couldn't even figure out where it is routed.

 

[Fl@pper]

red from memory is the fuel flap solenoid and usually blocked off anyway as they are common

pipe itself is rare to need doing as it's no pressure used but personally i would find the other end in the door and check there

the pump works until pressure builds up then cut's off so if you had a leak it would go for ages, try it without any connections then put finger over pipe

just DONT stick an airline down the pipes, you'll blow seals all over the place, boot first normally

 

[stevo125]

Well if i dont crush that red tube the pump will run for 30 seconds or more so that would suggest a leak in that red tube somewhere. I take it the hose then runs to the driver door, across the front and round to passenger door. Ill have to check for a sticky lock on passenger door as someone has suggested. Got bigger problems right now however. Pedal box. The bracket itself has broken rather than break from the pedal box. Ive araldited the sucker for now but that wont last forever. New pedal box i guess. Doesnt sound fun. :-(

 

[Fl@pper]

ahh cool the 30 sec run without block suggests pump is ok

time to sort the door out once other stuff done, but it will reward you in the end

 

[CraigW]

Well if i dont crush that red tube the pump will run for 30 seconds or more so that would suggest a leak in that red tube somewhere. I take it the hose then runs to the driver door, across the front and round to passenger door. Ill have to check for a sticky lock on passenger door as someone has suggested. Got bigger problems right now however. Pedal box. The bracket itself has broken rather than break from the pedal box. Ive araldited the sucker for now but that wont last forever. New pedal box i guess. Doesnt sound fun. :-(

Pedal box really isnt that bad to do. I did mine at the start of August. Its more akward and fiddley rather than difficult.

Follow Alpinewhite's guide (In his readers rides thead) and you wont go far wrong.