New breather hoses now 17584 & 17705 codes

[ClearAction]

Hi,

I've owned my car a year now and discovered it has always had the breather system disconnected just after the oil breather (pipe broke clean) I've installed a whole silicone system and my car is going bonkers now, plus put up two codes:

17584, p1176

Bank1: O2 (Lambda) Correction Behind Catalyst: Control Limit Reached (found online)

17705, p1297

Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

The car splutters on idle for a couple of seconds after starting and when holding throttle steady the revs deviate up and down in a rhythm by 500rpm (this doesn not happen every time).

Do you think the ECU is adjusting to having the breather system working correctly? I have cleared the codes after saving them and will see if they come back, the car seems to settle a little bit more every now and again so maybe it is just recalibrating? any help would help put my mind at rest

 

[8bit]

Something isn't fitted right, check everything again. The car is leaking boost (17705) which is causing the fuel/air mix to go all to s**t (17584).

 

[ClearAction]

Thanks for the reply, some more codes for you all to enjoy - if it can help me figure out where the problem is.....

17544 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Lean
P1136 - 35-00 -

16891 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.
P0507 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17705 pressure drop was also with these two and it has come up again by itself.

I think I have got the breather system ok as I no longer have a smell through the fans, I may have damaged another hose but will have a good hunt around on the breather again today. I am thinking about the hockey puck valve or possibly the small hoses in that metal plate by the dipstick, as that was a part that was pushed aside - would one of those small hoses going cause these problems? I will also check the braided hose to fuel pressure regulator on the underside of the manifold..........but guess i just need to have a good look. I seem to have less acceleration on boost and the idle tends to creep up to 1000, 1100 rpm on standstill (but not all the time) Also get surges in rpm with throttle control........

J

 

[8bit]

Does still point to an air/vacuum leak somewhere, poor performance on boost suggests a leak. Check all your boost hoses, the one from turbo to charge pipe, the one from charge pipe to SMIC and the one from SMIC to throttle body, plus all your vac and breather hoses.

In fact you may want to just replace them all with silicone while you're at it. You can get silicone vac hose in whatever lengths you need and a range of internal diameters, check this thread here from post 13 onwards for info if you decide to do this - http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=308833

 

[leoncupra2012]

That common breather that split on mine stunk the inside out with the heaters on, still smells a little now but mine ran ok with it split, id say youve disturbed something whilst repairing something else.

 

[ClearAction]

Maybe if you changed the pollen filter the last of the smell would go away? I have checked the breather system, seems tight enough - the hockey puck valve on the TIP has a good amount of what could be dirty/oil residue on the top so I've ordered the updated 'D' version.
The thing is I doubt there was really any vacuum in the lines before as the pipe was clean broken so now maybe with an air-tight system, a faulty puck valve can't now restrict the pressure?
If that doesn't solve it should I try a smoke test with a garage or buy some starter fluid and spray it over?

Thanks for listening! lol

J

 

[8bit]

Smoke test would be a good idea, yes. I can't see how fixing something that's broken would cause these fault codes, you must have either connected something wrong, not securely enough or left something else disconnected or damaged.

What stuff did you change, exactly?

 

[ClearAction]

This is the kit I bought from the US

http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t399/Clear_Action/20032012237.jpg

So I threw away the suction jet pump, whole pcv system and the Y piece of the brake booster. I put in two bits of 8mm internal diameter silicone vac hose either side of the check valve coming off the manifold for the brake line. The brakes are working just as well as before so I'm guessing those hoses are not leaking.

There is a billet alu check valve in the T piece which I have blown into and is working fine (it's new anyway) I cleaned my throttle body 6k ago and had a TB alignment done at a garage - maybe it needs another alignment? Yesterday the car kept switching between 1200, 1000 and 800 rpm it is odd it only goes to these values (roughly) - never higher than 1200 (like when you first start the car cold). CTS shows 90 on the climate control screen.
It is recommended to replace the puck valve anyway with the pcv check valve...... but may just have to get some smoke put through the lines. I have looked at all the small hoses that go under the inlet manifold but it is hard to tell if they are fractured.
I am also still thinking a ecu reset may help as the car was really bad straight after the hose system was changed but has toned done since (the exhaust was popping away and engine was jolting the whole car - stopped doing that now.

Still getting the high idle and pressure drop codes but no CEL at the moment

 

[8bit]

Hmm those parts don't look familiar, what model of car have you got?

TB shouldn't get that badly gunked up after that short space of time, unless the PCV system is (or was) allowing too much crap back into the intake. Might be worth doing anyway just to rule it out.

If you're still getting the pressure drop code then it's still leaking air out somewhere so yeah a smoke test should show this up.

EDIT - nice decks setup, I've got the silver 1200's

 

[ClearAction]

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/patb303/PCV/IMG_0255.jpg

This is how my system looked (though snapped in 2 places clean!) 2001 AUQ 1.8T Leon

The kit is a generic pipe for 1.8T engines. My elbow pipe snapped (the fat 90 degree one off the T piece to oil breather). Since all the silicone pipes out there still attach to my broken pipe I found this kit which replaces the whole system. I just had to sort out the brake booster line from the jet pump which is the same as when people install catch cans. the only difference between hose routes is that the T piece with the valve in lays horizontal rather than vertical but they both lead to the nipple on inlet manifold.

Yep my MK5Gs are a dream and look badass with the blue led spotlights and pitch numbers, motors lock together easy as CD decks. 1200's got that vintage look plus all those clubs that pimp them up are amazing!

I just walked to my garage round the corner and earliest they can do is next tuesday - bank holiday backlog. I said I'd call to cancel if I find a fix before. I guess in meantime best I can do is spray starter fluid on vac lines....might buy a mini fire extinguisher

 

[8bit]

Ooh nice, never tried a set of Mk5's, only Mk2's and Mk3's

See how you get on with the smoke test if you don't get a chance to try anything else before then.

 

[ClearAction]

doesn't this sound familiar!!!!!

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a4-a4-cabriolet-s4-forum-b6-chassis/83384-dodgy-idling-1-8t.html

The new puck valve arrived today and I've fitted it (had to add a jubilee clip to TIP as I broke old clips to get it off)

Not tested the car yet might head out in a bit. Got to clear the codes first but fingers crossed

 

[8bit]

Any luck?

 

[ClearAction]

I'm going to give it a few more days but the idle has stopped creeping up and the boost is pulling like a train again..........will scan it in a few more days for fault codes. The old valve diaphragm did move when you sucked the valve but it had a gunky slow thing about it. The new valve just popped open and shut instantly.

 

[8bit]

Sounds promising, keep us posted

 

[ClearAction]

Scanned it today and no codes! Is like a new car again when idling now that the breather system is intact and that annoying puck valve are working together properly. The car sounds lighter at lower revs now which is nice......and the smell is gone lol. I found some information that says when your pcv (t-piece) valve goes it usually takes out the pressure regulator valve too (puck) so if you replace one - make sure you replace the other as you can wreck a new puck valve if you don't change the pcv.

I think all the lean codes and backfires etc in the beginning were just the ECU adjusting! Going to get my back discs replaced with my garage appointment as they are corroded and squeal.....for some reason my SAI has started the dyson sound again (did the bolt fix over 6 months ago) so going to whip that off and hope its just shaken the bolts a bit loose lol there's always something!

Anyway SOLVED!

J

 

[8bit]

Good news