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N75 to turbo actuator pipe/tube

CheltLeonFr

Active Member
Nov 29, 2020
42
22
Cheltenham
Hi all, when car was mapped they smoke tested it and the only real sign of smoke was behind the n75 area, there is a sheathing protecting the tube that goes from n75 to turbo actuator and im sure its this pipe thats perished.
Has anyone changed this before? If so what size tube is it? It looks like its 5mm internal diameter from n75 to a reducer piece which then goes down to 3.5/4mm tube from that piece to the actuator itself. Is that correct and if so how easy is it to change and can I use silicone boost hose or is it better to use rubber fuel/oil pipe with outer braiding.
Any help will be appreciated
Cheers guys
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
Hi all, when car was mapped they smoke tested it and the only real sign of smoke was behind the n75 area, there is a sheathing protecting the tube that goes from n75 to turbo actuator and im sure its this pipe thats perished.
Has anyone changed this before? If so what size tube is it? It looks like its 5mm internal diameter from n75 to a reducer piece which then goes down to 3.5/4mm tube from that piece to the actuator itself. Is that correct and if so how easy is it to change and can I use silicone boost hose or is it better to use rubber fuel/oil pipe with outer braiding.
Any help will be appreciated
Cheers guys
I replaced mine a year or two ago because it had come into contact with the EGR valve housing and melted, as it hadn't been clipped back in the slot on the air intake pipe. If I've understood the hose you're referring to correctly, it's just your usual silicone vacuum hose - I used 4mm for mine that I got from Ram Air but I imagine you won't have any trouble with 5mm.

I have a diesel, so your routing might be different, but it's actually a very simple job, although it does involve getting under the car as it's much, much easier to change from down there. It sucks having to remove the undertray (if you have one) but it saves you messing around trying to find where it plugs in.

What threw me was that there's a sleeve - I think some kind of heat shielding - over the hose at the bottom, but it's literally a case of unplugging the old hose (carefully, so you don't snap any fittings) and then measuring the length before putting the replacement in. I haven't had any issues with boost since, so the 4mm seems to have worked.
 

CheltLeonFr

Active Member
Nov 29, 2020
42
22
Cheltenham
Thanks man yea 1.8t here but I imagine it will be similar. Yea ive removed under tray already so that won't be a problem. Im sure its split one because of the smoke test and 2 over time im noticing the boost going down. When it was mapped it was hitting 23/24 psi and holding strong. Now I'm only getting 20/21 at a push then falls to 17 as its going through the revs
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
Thanks man yea 1.8t here but I imagine it will be similar. Yea ive removed under tray already so that won't be a problem. Im sure its split one because of the smoke test and 2 over time im noticing the boost going down. When it was mapped it was hitting 23/24 psi and holding strong. Now I'm only getting 20/21 at a push then falls to 17 as its going through the revs
You'll have no trouble then. I overthought it before I did the job, because I couldn't see where the actuator hose went and I just spent ages feeling around and getting nowhere. Once I got under the car, I found where the hose went straight away and got it out. Half the time on these jobs, it's jacking the car up and putting it on axle stands that takes longest...
 
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