turbin
Guest
Im using the "H" version and get no problems. I see limp mode sometimes when I pick the car up after being parked outside for two weeks in snow/rain conditions tho... But, then I can drive it for two weeks with no probs whatsoever.
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Im using the "H" version and get no problems. I see limp mode sometimes when I pick the car up after being parked outside for two weeks in snow/rain conditions tho... But, then I can drive it for two weeks with no probs whatsoever.
It is brown, I'm sure H is black.
Yes, that's what I meant. Don't expect the earth from a cheap mod though!
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turbin
Guest
594pidge
Guest
You can get an N75J from any dealer. Piece of cake to fit. Disconnect the electrical connector, the 3 pipes and put the new one in. N75J is around the wrong way so it pulls on the cables a bit.
I stand corrected then, but TTS did say that they thought the ECS was based on the J
turbin
Guest
I'm not saying you're wrong fella, I just remember the H version being a bit hit and miss for a lot of cars - but I going back about 4.5 years so maybe they are a little bit more precise these days!
I think for £40 ish its good value as you do get a noticeable difference. As CupraUK says though, don't expect a transformation!
Take the part number that is stamped on the original one, change the last letter to the version you want (eg from F to J or H) and pump that part number into vagparts.com. I'm not sure if they're any cheaper than a main dealer or not though.
TTS are the supplier, http://www.ttsroadsport.com/. I don't suppose it matters if it is based on a H or J.
I got mine through the group buy on SCN
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Yes, it is definately a worthwhile mod if it does not cause you problems (and you've only lost £40 minus resale value if you do)
PS: The ECS is more expensive than the original part, I think I paid £75 on the group buy
SimmoCupra
Guest
Fitted the new N75 Valve, and it made all off bugger all difference, actually made my initial problem a little worse. ( I am still to get to the bottom of!)
I originally changed this cos, I can hear the what I think is the dump valve lifting whilst pulling away, say 2000rpm in 1st Gear. Not tipping out throttle - keeping constant throttle.....
I unplugged my new, greased up with dielectric grease MAF today, took it for a spin and its much better! I have no warning lights up on the dash, CEL or alike. So am I assuming GSF have sold me a pony MAF unit??
This morning, the car would not drive at all when cold, after being left for 2 days over chrimbo......
Am tempted to go and line the stealers pocket with my credit card unless I can sort it. Driving with the MAF disconnected does seem to make it better, although I know this will use different MAPS in the calibration, so is "unplugging it" actually an accurate test? I dont want to go down the route of buying another one unless I have to..
Any VAG COM GODS out there in the worthing area?? (Although I'm guessing OBD diagnostics wont help unless there is a DTC??)
HELP?!?
I originally changed this cos, I can hear the what I think is the dump valve lifting whilst pulling away, say 2000rpm in 1st Gear. Not tipping out throttle - keeping constant throttle.....
I unplugged my new, greased up with dielectric grease MAF today, took it for a spin and its much better! I have no warning lights up on the dash, CEL or alike. So am I assuming GSF have sold me a pony MAF unit??
This morning, the car would not drive at all when cold, after being left for 2 days over chrimbo......
Am tempted to go and line the stealers pocket with my credit card unless I can sort it. Driving with the MAF disconnected does seem to make it better, although I know this will use different MAPS in the calibration, so is "unplugging it" actually an accurate test? I dont want to go down the route of buying another one unless I have to..
Any VAG COM GODS out there in the worthing area?? (Although I'm guessing OBD diagnostics wont help unless there is a DTC??)
HELP?!?
Surprised you couldn't feel the difference but as you are indicating, there are other things that are not 100% elsewhere. The MAF might be a faulty one - I'd take it back and swap it anyway. Make sure the grease isn't shorting anything out that it shouldn't also. A VAGCOM logging run would help you know for certain though.
Also, which N75 did you go for ? I only know a 'J' version and that should be fitted so it looks like its on backwards compared with the original (the wiring loom plug is on the opposite side) - I don't know if the 'H' is like this also or not. If you fit it the wrong way round you don't get any benefit!
Also, which N75 did you go for ? I only know a 'J' version and that should be fitted so it looks like its on backwards compared with the original (the wiring loom plug is on the opposite side) - I don't know if the 'H' is like this also or not. If you fit it the wrong way round you don't get any benefit!
SimmoCupra
Guest
Yeah, went for the "J" valve. fitted what would look like is backwards, with the harness connection in reverse. All correct.
Going to do a resistance and voltage check on the MAF.
Going to do a resistance and voltage check on the MAF.
How did you get on with removing the OEM clips....? A pain in the ass or what eh! (..until you get mad and just cut the bu**ers off).
Are you on a standard DV ? They are known to stick - could be something like that I s'pose. The OEM ones are cheap enough from a dealer (IIRC about £35 but check first) but the Forge ones look better! I ran a forge one on my S3 a few years back. Made no real difference to peformance but I swear that the car was that little bit more responsive, but then I'd spent about £90 on it so it may have been the placebo effect kicking in! (The car was a 210hp that I had Revo'd and it had a Samco TIP).
Hope you get it sorted quickly mate.
Are you on a standard DV ? They are known to stick - could be something like that I s'pose. The OEM ones are cheap enough from a dealer (IIRC about £35 but check first) but the Forge ones look better! I ran a forge one on my S3 a few years back. Made no real difference to peformance but I swear that the car was that little bit more responsive, but then I'd spent about £90 on it so it may have been the placebo effect kicking in! (The car was a 210hp that I had Revo'd and it had a Samco TIP).
Hope you get it sorted quickly mate.
SimmoCupra
Guest
Large side cutters got em off, no worries. New shiny jubilees all round.
I'm running a green panel air filter (NO OIL!) and a forge 007p Dump valve. I have also vacuum tested the Dump valve as recommended on the Forge site. So no dice.
Will probablyu try a new MAF, from the dealers, as the GSF one I got although the part number is the same but reconditioned. I'm guessing the stealers one would be new?
I've also changed the plugs, and coil packs...
?
I've never heard of anyone bypassing the N75 before. What's going to control the wastegate then?
think he s getting mixed up with the n249..
you can get full ajustable n75 valves from greddy and other makes
you can get full ajustable n75 valves from greddy and other makes
Sorry to get this topic back up again..
but my car goes into limp mode. especially when i first start it on the morning. when i drive till its warm and i try to give throttle nothing happens so i. shut down the car and start it again and it is fine...
could the n75 valve have anything to do with it ?
VAG does not show any faults no lights are on also....
but my car goes into limp mode. especially when i first start it on the morning. when i drive till its warm and i try to give throttle nothing happens so i. shut down the car and start it again and it is fine...
could the n75 valve have anything to do with it ?
VAG does not show any faults no lights are on also....
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