Misfires and leaking current on a Seat Ibiza 6L (1.2 12v)

[koralsky]

Car has a rough idle when in operating temp, quite a few things have been swapped. (ECU, Battery, Cleaned Throttle Body)
What do i do? What is the next step from here? I checked and cleared fault codes with generic obd scan tool. By generic i mean it's not VAG-COM.
If car sits at idle and is not driven it sucks all the battery charge in about 2 days, what do i do?

 

[RUM4MO]

First thing that you need to do is to find out where the battery current is leaking to, and to do that you would need to connect a current meter in series with the earth of the battery, to start with, there will be a flow of maybe up to 0.5Amp, but after all the controllers have gone to sleep, the current flow should drop back down to maybe 0.150Amp or less. You will need to leave all the doors closed and the bonnet open to check this, and not, during the time that you are checking it, open any doors of hatch as doing that will waken up some of the controllers and so increase the battery drain current again.

Try to locate the main alternator fuse on the fuse board and remove that after you have checked the drain after the controllers have gone to sleep - then repeat that test with the alternator lead disconnected from the fuse board.

It might just end up being a or some damaged wires in the area where the wiring goes between the car and the doors, this sort of fault can be time consuming to sort out so don't expect to find a quick fix.

Good Luck!

 

[koralsky]

First thing that you need to do is to find out where the battery current is leaking to, and to do that you would need to connect a current meter in series with the earth of the battery, to start with, there will be a flow of maybe up to 0.5Amp, but after all the controllers have gone to sleep, the current flow should drop back down to maybe 0.150Amp or less. You will need to leave all the doors closed and the bonnet open to check this, and not, during the time that you are checking it, open any doors of hatch as doing that will waken up some of the controllers and so increase the battery drain current again.

Try to locate the main alternator fuse on the fuse board and remove that after you have checked the drain after the controllers have gone to sleep - then repeat that test with the alternator lead disconnected from the fuse board.

It might just end up being a or some damaged wires in the area where the wiring goes between the car and the doors, this sort of fault can be time consuming to sort out so don't expect to find a quick fix.

Good Luck!

Thanks, i will try this and i will report back!

 

[MW05]

I had a parasitic leak on my Discovery. Traced it to the diodes in the alternator. (common fault) Apparently they ensure the output is DC only. When they fail instead of the power only going from the alternator to the battery they allow it to go the other way through the alternator to earth. Try disconnecting the thick cable from the alternator to the battery and see if that cures the leak.

 

[koralsky]

I had a parasitic leak on my Discovery. Traced it to the diodes in the alternator. (common fault) Apparently they ensure the output is DC only. When they fail instead of the power only going from the alternator to the battery they allow it to go the other way through the alternator to earth. Try disconnecting the thick cable from the alternator to the battery and see if that cures the leak.

I changed the alternator 800km ago, still did it with the old one and when i changed there was no change in behaviour whatsoever. Thanks for the reply