Mbc / n75

DaNnY_LaD

Big Turbo Leon Cupra R
Jun 2, 2007
4,814
1
Manchester,Walkden
www.myspace.com
I had my car dyno'd today at awesomegti and im wanting to ''smoothen'' the Torque Curve out..

Now im wondering do i run a MBC on its own or inline with the N75..I Ran it on its own with my old IHI and worked better but that was a BT car..

This is my current graph i wanna smooth out...Ive already bought a MBC so just looking for some guidance.

Graph:
WP_000111.jpg



Thanks
 

prawn

Active Member
Jan 29, 2008
183
1
Basingstole
Running the NBC alone there's nothing to controll boost at part throttle, and the turbo will be spooling it's tits off on the lightest of throttle. It soon gets very annoying!

Don't run it inline with the n75, run it in parallel using 2 t's. That way, the n75 will controll everything up to the point you've set the mbc at, then the mbc caps peak boost and stops spiking
 

DaNnY_LaD

Big Turbo Leon Cupra R
Jun 2, 2007
4,814
1
Manchester,Walkden
www.myspace.com
Thanks Everyone il do what you say and do the mbc inline with the n75 I found this earlier of the web after a good old search:

Posted from another website:

Ha, Gotcha.

FWIW I'm running a Dawes MBC which is the same theory of operation as the Boostvalve. It's not adjustable in-place like a Boostvalve, but I believe the Dawes has faster-reacting components inside.

OK here's the skinny (where in the h*ll did that expression come from?):

IIRC correctly, in comparison to the stock N75, the "J" valve shifts the boost response curve to the "left", i.e. it gives you more boost sooner (earlier in the rpm band), but less boost later; whereas the "H" valve gives either a moderate increase across-the-board or is shifted "right", i.e. later in the rpm curve.

This boost shift from your "J" valve is happening so early in the rpm band that your ECU doesn't like it, hence the overboost codes. It probably doesn't even happen at max boost - even if you have a 15 psi chip, if the chip expects 7 pounds at 2000 rpm and it's seeing 10-12, that's what will throw the code. I'll call this "early-curve limp."

Now for the MBC setups:

Overboost/Parallel - the MBC is connected in parallel with the N75. In this configuration, the MBC is working as a "cap" on the max boost. The N75 still completely controls the boost curve, both shape and amount. The MBC only chops the top off the curve. Using the above numbers as a theoretical example, you will still get early-curve limp unless you dial the MBC all the way down to 7 psi. But then 7 psi will be the max boost you'll ever get.

Inline - This is how I run my MBC, connected in-series between the turbo nipple and the N75. In this configuration, the N75 only controls the shape of the curve. The MBC controls the value. The setting of the MBC modifies the whole curve of the N75 by a percentage amount. This setup has the best hope of a solution - just keep adjusting the MBC down until the limp goes away. In the example, this would be 7 psi at 2000 rpm, but boost would still increase vs. rpm (unlike the overboost setup, which would be a flat 7psi accross-the-board). However, this might mean that your max possible boost is less than 15 psi.

Bypass - The N75 is bypassed. Both shape of curve and amount is entirely controlled by the MBC. This is the worst of possible configurations unless you have standalone engine/fuel management. For a given rpm, the MBC is going to always give as much boost as the turbo is capable of putting out. So you get immediate early-curve limp, because without the N75 to moderate the boost increase, that turbo is going to spin up FAST!!! This is actually very fun to drive, and works great to a max boost of 12 psi. I ran bypassed 12 psi in my DBC car for a long time without any overboost or pinging. The throttle was like a lightswitch - it was either on or off. As soon as I tried to go even a mere pound above 12 psi, it was too much at lower rpms and I'd get overboost. Now that I'm running 15 psi I need the holey MAF to keep away overboost, and I need the N75 in-the-loop to moderate boost increase and avoid pinging.

Another advantage to the bypass mode is that you can build boost on the dragstrip - with a Tip, you can stand on the brake and the throttle and build 3-5 lbs boost before the light turns green. With the N75 in the loop, the ECU refuses to give the car any boost because it's not moving.

My best advice to you is to dump the "J" valve. It appears that its boost curve is not compatible with your chip's programming. Using your Boostvalve in-line with the stock N75, and increasing the boost by 1-2 lbs, should give you a nice overall improvement w/o causing limp. You could just keep increasing by 1 lb until you hit limp, then back off by a pound or two. But keep an eye on your fueling - if you pump the boost too much higher than the chip's max, you could run lean. Ouch.

I'll post this in your other thread to make sure everyone sees it. It occurs to me that this kind of info just isn't out there. Hell, I didn't even realize I understood it so well until I started to answer your post. THANKS!!! This is all very illuminating...
 
Nov 7, 2009
858
0
The queation i wanna no is. Can you fain power from a mbc? Or is jus to smoothen the powwr out? My torque drops realy quicky on the graph, so can a mbc slow that instant drop of talk down so i have abit more power for a few secons longer?
 

DaNnY_LaD

Big Turbo Leon Cupra R
Jun 2, 2007
4,814
1
Manchester,Walkden
www.myspace.com
Hi guys...

It seems my MBC isnt a mbc but a bleed valve? Now my stage 2 is mapped for 24psi peak but with my actuator being uprated its spiking too high..

now can i still fit this bleed valve?i dont want to a gain boost but ''Cap'' the peak of it...and hold it alot better which my yellow spring is doing well but sadly spikes too high..

Also how would this be connected to the car as theres 3 ports.. my valve

WP_000141.jpg
 

t32er

Guest
one of the ports just lets off ecsess pressure mate, i think its normally the bottom one on that style (could be wrong though, has been known once or twice, according to her any way lol) you should still be able to use it though, im trying it next week on mine with a bleed valve (need to find it)
 

rsmith

Robbie
Apr 28, 2004
2,797
1
Tipperary, Ireland
Danny, run the MBC in parallel with the n75 to stop any big/dangerous spikes like we see on your dyno print out. From looking at the dyno graph it looks like the N75 duty cycles are all over the shop, the torque should not Hit a peak of 337lb/ft and then suddenly drop and rise again, its like a roller coaster. Now I know some dyno graphs look this way but even if we smooth out all the little peaks and depressions it still looks like the torque is all over the shop.

Are you able to log boost and N75 duty cycles to see what's going on?
 
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DaNnY_LaD

Big Turbo Leon Cupra R
Jun 2, 2007
4,814
1
Manchester,Walkden
www.myspace.com
Thanks rod.

The mods have changed since they DD run.spoke to Alex earlier and I'm goin.to unset the actuator then do it with a pre tension of 2-3 turns then set the bleedvalve to 24psi.

He had this done on the Ibiza which worked well.

As it is set at the moment near the end of the rod its peaking to high still.don a wastegate test With n75 unplugged and its 9-10psi
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
Danny, run the MBC in parallel with the n75 to stop any big/dangerous spikes like we see on your dyno print out. From looking at the dyno graph it looks like the N75 duty cycles are all over the shop, the torque should not Hit a peak of 337lb/ft and then suddenly drop and rise again, its like a roller coaster. Now I know some dyno graphs look this way but even if we smooth out all the little peaks and depressions it still looks like the torque is all over the shop.

Are you able to log boost and N75 duty cycles to see what's going on?

bleed valve is what danny has tho.. it wont work as you describe
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
The forge mbc which i have works by off a bleed value too.

the unos is a ball and spring, and will "open" once that pressure is reached.. Its small hole is to allow the trapped air from unos to actuator to bleed out else it will work like a non-return valve - unos is not a bleed valve

If you are using a bleed valve, I am not surprised you have the issues you have with your hybrid and boost control... shyte things on 1.8t.
ball and spring mbc which you can set to a determined "open" pressure, then you have some control.

I think bleed valves on 1.8t suk... not advised by me
 
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