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LOOKING TO CHANGE THE ALLOYS ON MY 2012 IBIZA ANY SUGGESTIONS
- Thread starter CADDYMAN
- Start date
There are plenty of choices!
You’ve not said what your preferences are in terms of size, style, colour / finish, OEM or non-OEM, new or used so I’ve listed some general points below for you to consider and / or be aware of.
You’ve not said what your preferences are in terms of size, style, colour / finish, OEM or non-OEM, new or used so I’ve listed some general points below for you to consider and / or be aware of.
- I’d personally avoid anything with a diamond cut as durability of the diamond cut finish can be poor, leading to white worm corrosion, especially if you’re planning on keeping any new alloys you buy on your car all year round (IMHO diamond cut alloys and UK winter weather and road conditions aren’t a good combination). Diamond cut alloys are also more expensive to get refurbished than alloys with a painted / powder coated finish.
- IMHO some alloy wheel designs and colours don’t go particularly well with certain car paint colours. My preference on my current and previous two cars has been alloys in a shade of grey (e.g. such as anthracite, gunmetal, smoked chrome) in a painted / powder coated finish. IMHO alloys in a shade of grey tend to go well with most car paint colours.
- I’d stick with something that’s a similar size / spec to your current alloys to avoid potential fitment and rubbing issues. The calculator on www.willtheyfit.com website will calculate the important numbers for you if you input details of the existing and new wheel / tyre set ups.
- Bear in mind that if you go for larger wheels than your current ones, the tyres will be more expensive - sometimes quite a bit more expensive! Also, larger alloys with lower profile tyres will result in a firmer ride compared to smaller alloys fitted with tyres with a higher sidewall.
- If you’re considering used alloys, always ask the seller to confirm they’ve not suffered any structural damage (e.g. cracking or buckling from impact with road hazards such as potholes or sunken / raised drain covers). If you do go for used diamond cut alloys, ask the seller how many times they’ve been refurbished. The diamond cut refurb process involves removing a layer of metal from the face of the alloy and can only be safely done two times; more than twice and too much metal may be removed from the alloy, which could affect the structural integrity of the wheels and render them unsafe.
- I‘d personally stick to either OEM or one of the reputable well known brands such as BBS, Ronal, Borbet (there are other reputable brands too). The three I’ve listed also make OEM alloys for some car manufacturers including some of the VAG brands. OEM and alloys from reputable aftermarket manufacturers will have been subjected to stringent quality and safety testing and should have the quality mark (e.g. TUV, JWL or equivalent) stamped into the reverse side of one of the wheel’s spokes, along with the spec details of the wheel (J size, diameter, offset, PCD) and manufacturer’s name / brand mark.
- Be aware OEM centre caps won’t fit some aftermarket alloys. Also, many aftermarket alloys use bolts with a conical / taper seat (OEM bolts for Seat have a radius / ball seat). It’s really important the correct bolts are used and torqued to the correct setting to ensure the wheels are safely attached to the car’s wheel hub assemblies.
- I’d avoid cheap Chinese imports as the they may not have been safety tested, and based on feedback on various forums over the years, they’re more susceptible to cracking and buckling, and the quality of finish may be of a lower standard than OEM / reputable aftermarket alloys.
- Changing your alloys is a modification for insurance purpose, so be sure to inform your insurance company. Depending on how mod-friendly they are, they may or may not charge you an additional premium.
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