Leon fr mk1 front brakes stuck on help required

[Gezziefizzle]

Hi

Today i changed my discs and pads on my leon fr. And when ive test drove it the front brakes are smoking and are red hot. Im not sure what ive done wrong ive done these jobs before no problem. Jist not on this car.

I checked the parts was right matching with the old ones that came off.

So heres what i did.

Wheel off
Caliper slider pins out
Caliper clip off ( the one that holds it together)
Disc holders off ( what a pain )

Cleaned the disc holder with the wire brush
Pulled old pads and discs off
Cleaned the new discs with brake cleaner with a rag
Put the new disc on with its holder
Copper greased the corners of the new pads where they go on the holder.
Opened the brake resovior
Depressed the piston put the new pads in.
Shut the brake resovior.
Put the slider pins back in done them up.
Attached the clip that holds it together and wheel on.

Repeated the same process for the otherside.

When ive tried to drive it. Its felt like the handbrake was on ive done about a mile and stopped and smelt the brakes cooking. Drove it back. Not sure what the hells happened im baffled.

Anyone have any ideas? Do the slider pins need regreasing? Is that what ive missed. Or will the fronts need bleeding? The calipers wound back in no problem so i dont think its that. And apart from when ive replaced the brakes the car was driving with no problems prior to fitting.

Ive really hit a brick wall . Tomorrow i will be stripping it all back to check if any damage. Maybe bleed the calipers and grease the pins...but not sure on how much difference its going to make.

Just praying ive caused no more damage.

Any advise would be truely grateful!

 

[verbal_kint]

Sounds like you done the work correctly.

Does each wheel spin freely or is one grinding?

I had an issue where a stone got stuck between pads and disc and upset it all but not to lock up stage.

It's not likely that you have introduced an air lock in the brake lines but if the piston is old if might have corrosion on it that could have misaligned it then pushing it back.

I'd bet one wheel hub will be much hotter than the other - start your checks there. You can get a repair kit from places like Bigg Red.

 

[bruceR]

Could be the pads are thicker than the originals by a little, causing the feeling if brakes on all the time. As above, did you check that each wheel turned freely when finished changing brakes??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Gezziefizzle]

Thanks for the replies.

Stripped it today n by chance rang europarts just incase they had supplied me with the wrong discs. Which they had done. So had to do the whole job again.

Decided to bleed the front brakes n made a pigs ear of it as the peddle feels aweful. It goes near to the floor before it brake. Tried to bleed them all just incase but fluid and no air came out.

Taking it the garage next week my DIY days are now over

 

[Gezziefizzle]

Do i need to bleed the master cylinder?

 

[bruceR]

Not necessarily but a pressure bleed is best done on these brakes - Gunsons eezibleed is a good DIY tool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[verbal_kint]

To add to Bruce's advice the old school pump the pedal bleed method is not at all recommended for these brakes.

I've got the Gunson eezibleed and it works well taking air pressure from the spare tyre. It makes the job dead easy apart from when you find 2 seized and rounded off bleed nipples. Thanks previous owner!

And yes, for a complete job (but not essential) the master should be done and of course last in the bleed order.