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LCR - Just fitted DS2500's to fronts - some help please?

neilmac

Just starting to tweak...
Jul 12, 2006
294
1
Guys,

Just fitted them as per fitting guide on the knowledge base (good guide).
A couple of things...obviously there isnt a wear indicator on these pads.....so I notice now that when I fire her up - ive got a wear sensor warning..so do I need to do some thing with the old wear sensor connector....short it out and plug it back in or something?

Also Ive got a slight sort of hiss sound from the pedal just as I press it...brakes appear to be working fine but Im sure this wasnt there before - have I got problems...Ive tried to check the brake fluid levels but its very hard to see on that car....my assumption is that it hasnt been changed yet ('55 plate 14k miles) so it was fine from day dot so should be ok now>?

appreciate so feedback/help/opinions if there is any please?

ta.
 

karlosR

TORQUEY, NOISEY V6
Mar 10, 2006
1,469
0
BEDFORD
when i changed my pads i chopped the connector & wiring off of the old pads stuck the two loose wires together and sealed them up so its all water tight....... just don't forget to tie up the wiring out of harms way!
 

neilmac

Just starting to tweak...
Jul 12, 2006
294
1
when i changed my pads i chopped the connector & wiring off of the old pads stuck the two loose wires together and sealed them up so its all water tight....... just don't forget to tie up the wiring out of harms way!

so it does work as a short...ta.
 

Reg

Professional Detailer
Oct 10, 2005
962
0
Berkshire
You don't need pics to sort out the wear indicator - its literally a 30 second job. Cut the plug off the old original pad, you've now got two loose wires sticking out of the plug. Join them together and cover the join with insulating tape or something. Put this plug back into the connector on the suspension leg and hey presto, no warning light.

I'd recommend leaving a fluid change to an expert if you don't know what you're doing. Its not difficult as such, just a pain, and really not one of those things you want to get wrong.

Undo the fluid reservior before you gently push the pistons back into the calliper, it will make it easier. If you haven't topped the fluid up since the last pad change it shouldn't overflow, but just be careful and put some old rags around it just in case. If you spill any, especially on painted surfaces, wash it off immediately. Once the new pads are in, check the fluid level and put the lid back on securely. Job done.
 

rllmuk

Active Member
Apr 23, 2005
1,241
6
My pedal does exactly the same thing - has done since the front pads were replaced - I reckon there is air in there.

Only thing left for me to try is a full brake fluid replacement - but I'm going to get a garage to do it just in case I screw it up.
 

neilmac

Just starting to tweak...
Jul 12, 2006
294
1
from the pedal?
you bled the brakes?
got air in the slave cylinder?
Yes, from the pedal...the brakes feel sharp but it does sound like air.....should I really need to bleed them though? Sure I had to push the cylinders in to change the pads but nothing else? that said I had to get the cylinders near flush to the caliper face to get the pads in........so have I missed something and I do need to bleed?

In which case how tricky is bleeding the brembo's - is there two bleed valves and Im assuming I will need to change the brake fluid at the same time?
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
Yes, from the pedal...the brakes feel sharp but it does sound like air.....should I really need to bleed them though? Sure I had to push the cylinders in to change the pads but nothing else? that said I had to get the cylinders near flush to the caliper face to get the pads in........so have I missed something and I do need to bleed?

In which case how tricky is bleeding the brembo's - is there two bleed valves and Im assuming I will need to change the brake fluid at the same time?
no you should'nt have to bleed them if all you've done is push the pistons back and fit new pads..
If you do consider bleeding them, only pressure bleed do not be tempted to use the old pedal up/down method as you risk rolling a seal in the master cylinder which is new cylinder time.

There is a hissing sound from the brake servo pedal normally, is yours more noticable or something you've not heard before.
 

neilmac

Just starting to tweak...
Jul 12, 2006
294
1
no you should'nt have to bleed them if all you've done is push the pistons back and fit new pads..
If you do consider bleeding them, only pressure bleed do not be tempted to use the old pedal up/down method as you risk rolling a seal in the master cylinder which is new cylinder time.

There is a hissing sound from the brake servo pedal normally, is yours more noticable or something you've not heard before.

To be honest it could have been hissing slightly before but you know how it is, you do something new and you look for any problems....I will see how it goes before rushing in and bleeding...it could have always been there and Im just being paranoid:) I was wondering whether I over cooked pressing the cylinders back in but I only pushed thm back just outside of flush to the caliper and there was no evidence of fluid (like a seal had bust) plus the brakes are working....cant give em too much at the moment though obviously.

Thanks for the help buddy - much appreciate your time in replying etc :)
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
the very unreliable wear sensor you mean which allows you to be on metal and it does'nt tell you?

red stuff have wear sensors, but are not as good a performance pad as ds2500's
 

RobM

Back from the dead...
Sep 27, 2006
4,982
3
Southampton
My standard pads were replaced recently and we're pretty damn low, but there was no sign at all of the wear indicator coming on. I think it's a bit useless to be honest, it's more of a get out of jail free card for lazy people who can't be bothered to check their brakes. If it gets to the point where the indicator is on, you should have changed your pads a while ago.
 
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