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I'm Ready To VAG-COM! (LCR)

JamJay

California Bound
Hi all. I ordered a VC cable from Ebay for the basic 409.1 yesterday at about 2pm and it arrived this morning :)!

Now I need help because this is the 1st time I have done this. I have downloaded 409.1 from the Rosstech website and the new cable comes with a CD that says 409.1 driver. Do I need to install this or is it just 409.1 again?

Onto the next stage, do I need to have the cable plugged into the car before configuring it to Vag-Com and assigning a port?

Thanks to a very helpful dave_ph on here :thumbup:, I know how to do MAF logs which is why I bought this cable. I understand that I need to click 'select control module', then '01-Engine', then another button called 'blocks'? I will then be presented with 3 lines in which I need to enter a code in each i.e. 003 but which codes go in here?

After this, how do I see all of the data that it has logged? I plan to do this in 4th gear from approx 30mph.

Any info much appreciated and i'll head out and do it tomorrow.

The logs i'll be taking will be with a Neuspeed P-Flo, then next week I will do the same with a JETEX. If the readings are still down, I will replace the MAF and then retry and after that I will descreen it and see the difference. My tests should hopefully help a few people :)
 

MATTCR

FR
Mar 6, 2007
1,524
1
UK
Put your cable in a usb port and it should install it itself (mine did)

Then go to device manager in control panel and see what port your cable is using - mine went to port 5. Change to port 3 (or any port from 1-4)

Plug into your car and run a test to see if its working :)
 

dave_ph

:)
Jul 12, 2006
411
0
Somerset
www.vagowners.co.uk
if you plug the usb cable in, mine had to have the drivers installed for it - when the install hardware box popped up, dont let it search windows update - let it search the cd drive automatically and it should pick the driver up from the cd and install it. I've found its usb port specific though (ie if you install it on one usb port, you will need to do it for the others to, so i use the same one)

Mine went onto com3 - I found out by going into the options button on vagcom, and selecting each port and testing it in turn - the usual trial and error :p

With regards to the logs - it will ask you where to save (default location is "logs\" which is c:\program files\vag com\logs), however you can change the location if you like. it saves in csv which excel opens fine
 

BoomhaueR

Wanna go fasterrrR
Oct 9, 2008
810
0
Exeter, Devon
For a list of what each measuring block does look here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/

So for measuring MAF you want block 002 or 003. With an open cone you should be seeing around 205g/s. I will be very interested to see how the Jetex gets on. I am tempted to buy one too.

Block 006 is also useful to see your air intake temperatures.

The best way to do it is in 4th gear from as low revs as you can without stalling full throttle all the way to the red line. Watch your speed though! You can do the same in 3rd as well if your speed at redline is an issue.

Good luck and let us know your results!
 

JamJay

California Bound
A little bit of a problem today, the work laptop forbids installation of anything remotely useful, fun or with a helpful purpose for anything personal you may need to do so I can't run the logs until I get hold of another laptop next week.

Secondly, 409.1 seems to have disappeared from the Ross-Tech site for Key & Hex cars so I can't redownload it :(.

Also, if I buy a new laptop after Xmas, Vag-Com won't work with the lastest OS's - Vista or 7 will it?
 
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JamJay

California Bound
Ok, so attempt number one tonight didn't go as planned, it rained so the wheels were spinning like mad but this is what I got. I will do a proper one again this week if it dries up. The run was done in 3rd gear and almost to the redline before I had to back off quite suddenly.

Looks ok to me but what do you think? Obviously I really need to do a proper 4th gear run to know for sure.

Code:
	Group A:	'002				Group B:	'003				Group C:	'020			
		RPM	Load	Inj. On Time	Mass Flow		RPM	Mass Flow	Load	Ign. Timing		Idle Stabilization	Idle Stabilization	Idle Stabilization	Idle Stabilization
	TIME					TIME					TIME				
Marker	STAMP	 /min	%	 ms	 g/s	STAMP	 /min	 g/s	%	 °BTDC	STAMP	 CF	 CF	 CF	 CF
	0	1320	40.6	3.74	10.19	0.42	1360	10.22	7.1	27.8	0.9	0	0	0	0
	1.31	1440	69.9	6.46	20.78	1.82	1520	19.33	14.9	19.5	2.3	0	0	0	0
	2.72	1680	62.4	5.1	20.14	3.22	1760	20.89	13.3	23.3	3.63	0	0	0	0
	4.13	1880	62.4	5.78	23.58	4.64	2000	22.33	13.3	26.3	5.04	0	0	0	0
	5.44	2080	48.9	4.08	16.67	5.93	2120	10.22	7.5	34.5	6.33	0	0	0	0
	6.75	2160	27.8	2.38	11.36	7.15	2200	8.06	5.9	34.5	7.55	0	0	0	0
	8.05	2240	48.1	4.76	22.92	8.45	2320	24.5	14.5	24	8.86	0	0	0	4.5
	9.36	2480	48.1	4.42	23.86	9.76	2560	39.47	23.5	26.3	10.16	0	0	0	3.8
	10.56	2880	132.3	12.58	88.08	10.97	3120	124.97	100	10.5	11.37	0	0	0	2.3
	11.87	3760	191.7	20.06	149.67	12.27	4040	155.64	99.6	4.5	12.69	0	0	0	1.5
	13.09	4600	191.7	19.72	165.25	13.58	4920	178.08	100	5.3	13.98	0	0	0	0.8
	14.38	5440	189.5	19.04	196	14.8	5640	197.03	100	7.5	15.29	0	0	0	0.8
	15.69	6120	172.2	17.34	200.94	16.11	6360	207.56	100	12.8	16.6	0	0	0	0
	17.01	6720	170.7	17.68	201.36	17.4	6880	204.19	100	12.8	17.82	0	0	0	0
	18.32	6080	14.3	1.7	6.97	18.72	5480	13.22	9.4	4.5	19.13	0	0	0	0
	19.61	4240	12.8	0	10	20.01	3640	8.92	5.9	3	20.43	0	0	0	0
	20.83	2560	13.5	0	7.28	21.23	2360	6	4.3	0.8	21.72	0	0	0	0
	22.12	2240	12.8	0	5.67	22.54	2160	5.56	3.9	2.3	23.02	0	0	0	0
	23.44	2160	13.5	0	5.72	23.84	2120	5.03	3.5	3	24.24	0	0	0	0
 

JamJay

California Bound
I don't really understand correction factors so I have no idea if mine were good or not. I still suspect that my MAF is playing up as it showed that it was at the last RR day and sometimes the car feels like it's really bogging down...I can't think of any other reasons, it's serviced regularly and there are no fault codes.

Rsmith, it's running with a Neuspeed P-FLO with Neuspeed air filter (weird oval shape), N249 bypass, AMD Stage 1, Custom air feed & Forge 007 DV...that's it, the rest is just cosmetic.

Boom, this run wasn't with the JETEX but I am still going to order one. I was really suprised to see 207g/s in there, I was expecting 190-something to be honest. I think the Neuspeed filter has quite and inefficient design TBH so replacing won't hurt.

I could have squeezed an extra few RPM more from her but the braking suddenly involved the po-po. I will definitely do this again this week as I finish work on Weds. I hope to have the JETEX by the weekend so i'll go for a drive, stop, open the bonnet for 5mins while my friend has a smoke and to let cooler air circulate, then do the logs with the Neuspeed. I'll pull over again, open the bonnet for 5mins and swap the filters and do it again, it should be quite a fair test then.
 
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J0N

Defected!
Your timing pull (correction factors) look fine to me, you don't really want higher than 6 degrees so even cylinder 4 is ok, what petrol are you using?
MAF looks fine too with 207.56g/s.

Next session try these logs if your Vag-Com is fully registered;

Vagcom measuring blocks

003 & 020
115 & 031
118 & 032

003 Idle Speed Air Mass Injection Throttle Angle Ignition Angle
020 timing retard 1 timing retard 2 timing retard 3 timing retard 4
115 Engine Speed Engine Load Spec. Boost Actual Boost
031 Lambda Factor Lambda Factor
118 Engine Speed Intake Air Temp Boost Duty Cycle Actual Boost
032 Idle 0² Adaptation Run 0² Adaptation
 

rsmith

Robbie
Apr 28, 2004
2,797
1
Tipperary, Ireland
I don't really understand correction factors so I have no idea if mine were good or not. I still suspect that my MAF is playing up as it showed that it was at the last RR day and sometimes the car feels like it's really bogging down...I can't think of any other reasons, it's serviced regularly and there are no fault codes.

Rsmith, it's running with a Neuspeed P-FLO with Neuspeed air filter (weird oval shape), N249 bypass, AMD Stage 1, Custom air feed & Forge 007 DV...that's it, the rest is just cosmetic.
.

thanks, FYI, here is an extract of the 1.8T tweakers guide, your CF's are fine BTW.
What air feed are u using? i can email u the tweaker guide PDF, it makes for good reading.

2.6.5 Block 020 – Timing Retard
This block shows the timing retard for each cylinder. You should see a field of zeros
everywhere, with a few possible spikes up to 9°KW. The number 0 in each of the cylinder
boxes indicates no timing retard is taking place. Non-zero numbers indicate the timing
advance is reduced.
Now, what if you see some random numbers like "1.5" and "3" every once in awhile? This
should be fine. If you were a tweaker, ideally you would want to find that point where you are
able to use the most timing without triggering problems. Since most people do not mess with
timing adjustments, we want to see as close to zero as possible thoughout.
Warning! The ECU can retard timing no more than 12°KW. Timing retard greater than
10°KW should make you worried, and is a major player in engine destruction
 

JamJay

California Bound
I don't have the full version so I am not sure I can do those logs. 002, 003 & 020 worked fine though. I will give it a try in case I am lucky but I doubt it.

I use Tesco 99ron, I prefer it to V-Power to be honest, the car seems a bit happier to run on it and I don't think the Shell garages around here keep the petrol too fresh. Are my logs correct for 99ron fuel?

My airfeed is a custom made one which to be fair is a complete one off.

Image166.jpg


Check page 2 of my build thread & post 39 & 40 at the bottom. I will be removing this though and installing some 76mm from the foglamp hole once FMIC is fitted in Feb.

Great read, I would like to see the whole version, it'll heklp me understand a bit more. PM on it's way :)
 

james walker

cooling is the key people
May 24, 2007
5,121
2
retford notts
could do with logging from 2500rpm to the redline mate...

maf looks good for stage 1 mapping, cfs look ok although they are present.. changed plugs recently??
 

james walker

cooling is the key people
May 24, 2007
5,121
2
retford notts
ideally no cfs should be present..

solutions are good fuel, which you use, new cooler plugs, new fuel filter etc etc.

cfs could come from starting the power run too low down the rev range also.. they dont look bad though mate, nothing to worry about imo.

those maf readings peak well, but how comes theres fluctuation in the readings through the rev range, did you back off or keep foot planted all through the run?
 

JamJay

California Bound
It was a bit slippery out there, spinning wheels. I won't post up the 2nd log that I did because it was shocking, I was spinning all the way through 3rd, lifting off to try and control it, back on again and instant spin and became scary when I was heading straight forward on a left hand bend. This was all in about 5sec by the way but seemed alot longer when I was trying to reign the beast in. I guess virtually 300lb/ft is alot to put down through the front wheels for any car and my tyres could be in better shape.

I'll head out again this week (no rain predicted) and do a 4th gear run from 2.5k. Seeing as I am only on 409.1, will 002, 003 & 020 be sufficient again or are there any other 'free' blocks I can use?