Ibiza front axle nut not seated?

[kultingen]

Changed the two springs on my girlfriends Ibiza after the left side broke. On the right side I removed the spindle, driveshaft, spindle joint to get the spring out.
But after mounting a new axle nut I noticed there is a row or two of threads left on the nut. On the left side there are no threades left on the nut.
Torqued to 50 nm + 45 degrees. Became worried and took everything apart again to make sure the drive shaft was seated on the spindle correctly, couldt find any way to make it tighter. While I had it down I tested on the nut on the shaft, and with it at the buttom there are the same rows of threades left, see pics:

And the old nut is the same:


So, is it OK with it looking like this? The only way the nut could be seated more if with very high torque and crush the end of the nut, but manual says low 50 nm torque +45 degrees and the end of the nut is anyway supposed to work as a lock against the splines. Want to ask for advice so I don´t ruin her car or cause an accident. Im used tro regular nuts on driveshafts with much much higher torque to them.

My car has driver side on the left side. On car parts sites it says MK4 but according to year model 2012 it says MK5 on this forum, don´t know what is correct. Trunk tag says 6J8 3JV

 

[dm222]

I think if it is like the original one there is nothing to worry about, just torque to spec, be aware that those are single use because the safety lock mechanism gets destroyed removing it.

 

[RUM4MO]

That nut part number and torque has not changed from back in earlier models in 2001.
I can’t answer your original question about less threads being “used” after the repair when you replaced that nut with a new one though. You are correct to ask about this change though.

 

[RUM4MO]

Looking at your pictures again, I think that maybe the nut “length” or taper might have been changed very slightly although the part number is either exactly the same as for earlier cars, and your car when built, or has been changed to reflect a slight change in that nut - for some reason, though if it has been changed it will have been changed for all cars that used it.

 

[kultingen]

I found another Ibiza at a parking lot today and there was some thread showing on that one as well so I think everything is ok.
I compared original nut with the one I used (tested with 6Q0 407 396 C and 6Q0 407 396 B, think only the coating is difference) and they all had the same dimensions.

 

[kaiabram]

With this style of nut, how does it seat on the wheel bearing?

 

[RUM4MO]

The wheel hub which has the wheel bearing built into it, is placed over/on to the drive shaft, and this nut tightens down on the outer face of the wheel hub assembly. So, maybe thinking a bit more about the original poster's question, any slight dimensional change to the new wheel hub, which most people buy from a car parts outlet, choosing one from their preferred bearing manufacturer - and not VW Group - I choose F A G when I replaced both front wheel bearings/hubs on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 6C a year or so ago. The "wings" on these nuts are designed to grip against the counter bore in the wheel hub assembly, and should break off when removing these nuts, on a 2002 VW Polo, back in maybe 2008/9, I removed one when replacing both springs, and the "wings" or tangs broke off. When I did that same job on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza the nuts came off intact, but I fitted new ones. Same on my wife's 2015 VW Polo when I replaced both front hub assemblies, ie both nuts were removed intact, but I fitted new ones when re-assembling things.

 

[kaiabram]

So i have a hub nut spinning on the shaft if i broke the outer of the nut away i would be able to get the shaft out the hub while the threaded bit stayed on the shaft?

 

[RUM4MO]

As long as the furthest in part of the nut is still connected to the shaft, I'd think that you will still not be able to separate the hub from the shaft.

Why do you think that that nut is able to turn on the shaft - has it been overtightened and the threads have been stripped?

 

[kaiabram]

As long as the furthest in part of the nut is still connected to the shaft, I'd think that you will still not be able to separate the hub from the shaft.

Why do you think that that nut is able to turn on the shaft - has it been overtightened and the threads have been stripped?

Furthest? Meaning the threaded bit? And i believe so yes, car came for a clunk after someone done some work on it and ive found that the hub nut is stripped i.e the nut just spins if try and loosen or tighten

 

[RUM4MO]

One way to sort this out might be to get the brakes off and use a puller - ie try to pull the hub by forcing the shaft back through the stripped nut as there it not much space around where that nut is.

Yes I did mean the threaded part nearest the splined section of the drive shaft.

 

[kaiabram]

One way to sort this out might be to get the brakes off and use a puller - ie try to pull the hub by forcing the shaft back through the stripped nut as there it not much space around where that nut is.

Yes I did mean the threaded part nearest the splined section of the drive shaft.

Okay so quickest solution would probably just be get a new outer cv joint and a second hand hub assembly you think? As i dont think i have a puller that would have the strength to do that

 

[RUM4MO]

Probably, though if the nut is really well stripped of its threads, it should not take much to press the drive shaft back out through that nut - doing that would save a lot of money and extra work.

 

[kaiabram]

Yeah i mean its that stripped you can turn it with a socket both ways for as long as you want and it doesnt do anything doesnt even have any tight spots

 

[RUM4MO]

Of course it just might be that your socket is not getting down fully into the recess the nut is located down and your socket "lean in" and the "lead in" on that nut are stopping you making good enough connection. I think that it is a Laser Tools deep impact bi-hex socket that I've always used as it is slim enough to get down enough to grip enough.

 

[RUM4MO]

In desperation - maybe try marking that nut just to prove that yo are rotating it with the socket?

 

[kaiabram]

Of course it just might be that your socket is not getting down fully into the recess the nut is located down and your socket "lean in" and the "lead in" on that nut are stopping you making good enough connection. I think that it is a Laser Tools deep impact bi-hex socket that I've always used as it is slim enough to get down enough to grip enough.

In desperation - maybe try marking that nut just to prove that yo are rotating it with the socket?

Thanks for the bit of confidence, ive just basically smashed the shaft through the nut old school style with a hammer and drift and its came out thank god for that

 

[kaiabram]

Of course it just might be that your socket is not getting down fully into the recess the nut is located down and your socket "lean in" and the "lead in" on that nut are stopping you making good enough connection. I think that it is a Laser Tools deep impact bi-hex socket that I've always used as it is slim enough to get down enough to grip enough.

Also i have the special 12 sides impact socket for these too but thanks for the help anyway mate

 

[RUM4MO]

Excellent result!

 

[kaiabram]

For anyone that has stripped threads on this time of cv axle just strip the threads completely and just smack the shaft out the nut