Hotting Up a 98 Cupra Sport 2.0 DOHC 16V

[muchie's_cupra]

Hey there

Just joined up on this crazy site.

I am an owner of a 98 Cupra Sport (16v Dohc)
from Melbourne Australia.

They didnt bring many of those particular Seats down here
(only 40 I think) and you cant even get Seat's new here
any more.

However, I need to know.

Wanting to get a bit more outright speed out of this baby
without spending too much cash!

Any ideas?

I was thinking maybe the filter or the exhaust or both??

Anything would be appreciated.

Muchacho

 

[Brummy]

Good'ay and welcome fella... nice to 'meet' ya...
have a go on the 'search function'.. theres alsorts of info in there.. even to the point of one of your fellow countrymen dropping a VR6 into a Mk2!!..

Enjoy

 

[edc]

Most of what you want to know is covered in previous threads in this forum and also in the n/a tuning section.

 

[d4ve]

quickest way would be to strip the car out.......then its the usual engine work/transplant!

think youd be easy doing engine conversion as over in uk its a pain in ass to find aftermarket parts!!

 

[Red Ibiza VR6]

Filter, Exhaust then when you do the head gasket, put a Golf 16v KR Head on your motor, which will up the compression and have a tastier cam.

I have a couple of those heads and I`m in Sydney.

Or you could VR6 it

 

[edc]

Cam specs have been shown to be very little different, if anything the ABF items being the more favourable. Head swap also been done and made next to no difference in power.

 

[H8SV8S]

Filter, Exhaust then when you do the head gasket, put a Golf 16v KR Head on your motor, which will up the compression and have a tastier cam.

I have a couple of those heads and I`m in Sydney.

Or you could VR6 it

The ABF head flows 2% better on the inlet and 2.5% on the exhaust. The cams are also hotter and have 10.8mm valve lift on either side. The SEAT head also has lighter lifters, better combustion chambers and different valves.

If you want to truly raise the compression, you buy new pistons

There are only two workshops in Australia that have built a proper 16v motor. Mine turned out rubbish for ages until I ended up finishing it off myself. The other place is JHH in QLD, but I haven't heard from them for ages (supposedly they were on the track to 200hp at the wheels with under 300deg cams, which is very good).

The only way to cheaply up the power is getting the head ported... though, I wouldn't do this in Australia either as most of the ports are already too large and without knowing this, the last head I had done locally, was just a big port job and I lost all my torque.

I've since had one done for a Mk1 Golf with the ABF motor and it is a much better job. I didn't get it from Australia, though

You're also limited by the lack of piggyback ECU programs down here. If you fit new cams for example, there is no AMD or Jabbasport here to remap the computer (unlike in the UK!!) and get the car under emitions (something that proves difficult on an ABF). You end up having to just get a standalone computer and even then you run into trouble, but I won't get started on that.

Point being, you either go the whole hog or don't even bother. In fact, the best place to start is not on the engine but in the driveline with a shorter 3.94 final drive and a 12lb flywheel - cheap and easy and MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE

 

[H8SV8S]

P.S. Your car should have about 90kW at the wheels in good nick, which is a handy bit of power. The only reason it doesn't go as well as the figures suggest is because of the long gearing and massive 22lb flywheel.

 

[cordobabrendy]

i had a kr head on my abf and peak rpm and torque (torque was up on std too)was actually 1000rpm lower than the abf vversion, the kr head if opened properly should flow more than the std abf too so it could be a very worthwhile mod.