I've only gone and fixed it! Wohooo!
It seemed the old matrix either has an internal bypass, or had really bad cholesterol because it took the hose water twice as long to reach it's way through the new matrix.
It was a big job to get out. I wish I had the time to chill and take some pics for future people but I'm just going to do a little brain dump here...
Step 1: Remove entire dashboard, steering wheel and clocks
I done this quite carefully but still only took a few hours. I made a separate bag for the nuts/bolts of each section which helped when putting it back in.
BE CAREFUL OF THE LOOM AND WIRES, ESPECIALLY THE ONE WHICH GOES TO THE LITTLE SENSOR IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WINDSCREEN BLOWER.
Also (1): You need to drop the steering column for later.
Also (2): The clips behind the heater ducts (onto the dashboard) are an absolute pain in the ass and I used strong Velcro instead of reattaching them.
Step 2: Unbolt the heater box from the firewall
Just before: Remove the cabin filter assembly, and remove it from the heater box (under scuttle)
You need to remove the hard boost pipe, then the head shield which is between the rear of the engine / turbo and the actual firewall. There is 2 flaps in the firewall foil directly behind the turbo which has 2x 10mm nuts in them. Be careful not to drop the nuts behind the firewall carpet when they come loose!
On the N/S of the firewall, pull back the carpet around where the hard air-con pipes enter the firewall and you'll find 2x gold 10mm nuts in quite awkward positions.
Once loosened off, you need to dismantle the "junction box" where the air con pipes go in, as that is still holding onto the heater box.
Step 4: Loosen the big support beam under the dashboard
There's 2 13mm bolts on each side, plus a couple torx ones on the top and a few others I can't think of, you'll work it out. This doesn't need to come out, but just need to be loosened so you can pull the heater box out enough to get to the matrix
Step 5: Replace matrix and reverse everything