Hi everyone just a quick dpf question I had noticed over the past few days the car was a bit hesitant in say fourth gear at low revs then I was driving yesterday and my dpf light came on. This is the second time the light has come on is there anything I should be worrying about? The car is only 2 months old if this helps.
dpf light coming on
- Thread starter bubbles1986
- Start date
if you are just doing short trip then it will most likely come on. Do a short run at around 50mph in 4th and that is supposed to clear to it, there are loads of threads relatiing to it and if you read the cars manual it says the same in there, wouldnt worry though
The dealer is supposed to explain how the DPF works before you buy the car but as spenny2004 says run the car at high revs in a low gear for a short time.
Basically if you only do short runs the DPF doesn't get hot enough to burn up the carbon stored inside. Going through the regeneration process ensures it gets hot enough to burn up the carbon deposits.
I would make sure you go through this process as soon as the light comes on as one or two people have had further issues by not doing this.
Basically if you only do short runs the DPF doesn't get hot enough to burn up the carbon stored inside. Going through the regeneration process ensures it gets hot enough to burn up the carbon deposits.
I would make sure you go through this process as soon as the light comes on as one or two people have had further issues by not doing this.
cheers for the advice well when the light came on i was behind a tail of traffic behine an L driver and no one was passing him![[:@]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/furious.gif "Furious [:@]")
but kept the revs just below 3000 rpm and the light went off after about 10 mins it was justing worrying incase there was somthing up with the engine
but kept the revs just below 3000 rpm and the light went off after about 10 mins it was justing worrying incase there was somthing up with the engineThis is a scan of the DPF booklet you should have got with the car
http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dpfle3.jpg
Got this on a massive thread on this in the FAQ section.
http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dpfle3.jpg
Got this on a massive thread on this in the FAQ section.
Deleted member 23024
Guest
I must say the Stealers don't know much anyway.
Went to Francis Seat in Leicester and was told that the DPF light would come on if you drive to slowly or to FAST.
I mean how the only way to drive fast is to burn more fuel and increase exhaust gas temperature but they kept telling me its this that can clog the DPF all this extra fuel.
What i want to know is how the hell am i meant to drive my car then can't go fast or slow now
Went to Francis Seat in Leicester and was told that the DPF light would come on if you drive to slowly or to FAST.
I mean how the only way to drive fast is to burn more fuel and increase exhaust gas temperature but they kept telling me its this that can clog the DPF all this extra fuel.
What i want to know is how the hell am i meant to drive my car then can't go fast or slow now
SEATgod
Guest
The policy is to run the vehicle above 40 mph, revs NO higher than 2,000 rpm and the highest gear you are able to drive in!
You need slow exhaust gasses passing through the DPF carrying the post burning fuel!
Ragging the t1ts out of it won't be as effective!
Also, No biofuel and No red diesel!! ;-) Hope this helps!
You need slow exhaust gasses passing through the DPF carrying the post burning fuel!
Ragging the t1ts out of it won't be as effective!
Also, No biofuel and No red diesel!! ;-) Hope this helps!
John2Garden
Guest
I have had loads of problems with mine that past week.
DPF Light came on Sunday then cleared that after reading the manual, (how can driving at 40mph for 10 miles at no less than 1500 rpm clear it out)?? the Engine Management light then came on on Monday and the Engine management light, had the AA out to reset the management light. drove it home Monday night DPF light came on again, cleared it again as per manual then the Engine management light came on yet again, then the coil light started flashing and the car decided to go into 'limp mode' on a dual carriageway. That was fun.
Had the AA come out and tow it away they dropped it off on Thursday and I had it back on Friday with a replacement Exhaust sensor. Seems to have done the trick so far.
DPF Light came on Sunday then cleared that after reading the manual, (how can driving at 40mph for 10 miles at no less than 1500 rpm clear it out)?? the Engine Management light then came on on Monday and the Engine management light, had the AA out to reset the management light. drove it home Monday night DPF light came on again, cleared it again as per manual then the Engine management light came on yet again, then the coil light started flashing and the car decided to go into 'limp mode' on a dual carriageway. That was fun.
Had the AA come out and tow it away they dropped it off on Thursday and I had it back on Friday with a replacement Exhaust sensor. Seems to have done the trick so far.
SEATgod
Guest
Ok here goes...we all know the DPF is a filter in the exhaust that catches soot depositis to help the vehicle emissions.
System:
The system has three temperature sensors, one before the turbo, one before the DPF and one after the DPF. This is too monitor exhaust gas temperature especially when regenerating (cover that lower down).
You also have a differential pressure sensor, this looks at the pressure in front of the DPF and the pressure after the DPF. As the DPF fills up the pressure in front of the DPF increases and so the difference gets bigger. Once this difference reaches a certain level regeneration occurs.
You also have the lambda probe in front of the cat and the air mass meter which help indicate the burn throughout the regeneration.
Regeneration:
The vehicle will constantly start and stop regeneration when you are driving the vehicle without you knowing, hence sometimes why it sounds barky through the exhaust, runs like a rally car at idle...this is when you have stopped when is it carrying out regeneration passively.
When the vehicle fails this process a certain number of times or the conditions you are driving under aren't appropriate and the DPF reaches the requisite value, it will illuminate the DPF light. This requires you to drive to the conditions I documented above. This is active regeneration!
The vehicle regenerates by injecting diesel after the initial burn process and essentially when the exhaust valves are starting to open, so the gasses are STILL burning when they pass through the turbo and into the DPF. It is heat that is required, ragging a car does not mean you have hottest gasses, its when the engine is under greatest load.
If your water pump fails when is the car more likely to overheat? 80mph on the motorway or 80mph struggling up a hill??!!
This load slows the 650 - 800 degree exhaust gasses down so the heat can be absorbed by the DPF, which chemically changes the soot into an ash mass!
The problem is that if either the 1st temperature sensor or the differential pressure sensor goes down, no form of regeneration can be activated as it cannot read or measure the effectiveness of the post burn operation! It is primarily there to protect the trubo from 800+ degree temperatures and the DPF from overheating and casuing a fire hazard! Think of a blocked cat, some can reach temps of over 1500+ degrees...things dont just catch fire at those temperatures!!
The isssue you must have had is one of those sensors fail, which is why the two further lights are illuminated and the vehicle goes into limp home mode! I'm glad all is now resolved and you can continue enjoying the vehicle!!
System:
The system has three temperature sensors, one before the turbo, one before the DPF and one after the DPF. This is too monitor exhaust gas temperature especially when regenerating (cover that lower down).
You also have a differential pressure sensor, this looks at the pressure in front of the DPF and the pressure after the DPF. As the DPF fills up the pressure in front of the DPF increases and so the difference gets bigger. Once this difference reaches a certain level regeneration occurs.
You also have the lambda probe in front of the cat and the air mass meter which help indicate the burn throughout the regeneration.
Regeneration:
The vehicle will constantly start and stop regeneration when you are driving the vehicle without you knowing, hence sometimes why it sounds barky through the exhaust, runs like a rally car at idle...this is when you have stopped when is it carrying out regeneration passively.
When the vehicle fails this process a certain number of times or the conditions you are driving under aren't appropriate and the DPF reaches the requisite value, it will illuminate the DPF light. This requires you to drive to the conditions I documented above. This is active regeneration!
The vehicle regenerates by injecting diesel after the initial burn process and essentially when the exhaust valves are starting to open, so the gasses are STILL burning when they pass through the turbo and into the DPF. It is heat that is required, ragging a car does not mean you have hottest gasses, its when the engine is under greatest load.
If your water pump fails when is the car more likely to overheat? 80mph on the motorway or 80mph struggling up a hill??!!
This load slows the 650 - 800 degree exhaust gasses down so the heat can be absorbed by the DPF, which chemically changes the soot into an ash mass!
The problem is that if either the 1st temperature sensor or the differential pressure sensor goes down, no form of regeneration can be activated as it cannot read or measure the effectiveness of the post burn operation! It is primarily there to protect the trubo from 800+ degree temperatures and the DPF from overheating and casuing a fire hazard! Think of a blocked cat, some can reach temps of over 1500+ degrees...things dont just catch fire at those temperatures!!
The isssue you must have had is one of those sensors fail, which is why the two further lights are illuminated and the vehicle goes into limp home mode! I'm glad all is now resolved and you can continue enjoying the vehicle!!
Deleted member 23024
Guest
I'm guessing their maybe allot of problems with these sensors as I'm having one replaced too. Guess seat didn't see people actually wanting to drive their cars and fitted lower grade sensors as a fair few are having them replaced in the first year
tyke666
Guest
SeatGod, exhalent write up.
This is obviously a complex chain of events so if a sensor fails the process has to stop.
I have had one temperature sensor fail as in previous posts but have never seen the dpf light on during normal driving.
This is obviously a complex chain of events so if a sensor fails the process has to stop.
I have had one temperature sensor fail as in previous posts but have never seen the dpf light on during normal driving.
SEATgod
Guest
Hello Tyke, indeed it is!
At the end of the day it is a fail safe! And some people fail to use these vehicles appropriately!(I know that it is sometimes not advised at sale etc etc).
You normally find that if a person experiences the issue and they are correctly educated....no further issues exist!
As the sensor are so important in the systems operation, a failure ends up being classified as a DPF fault; when you look at the bigger picture....many different issues can stop regen!
At the end of the day it is a fail safe! And some people fail to use these vehicles appropriately!(I know that it is sometimes not advised at sale etc etc).
You normally find that if a person experiences the issue and they are correctly educated....no further issues exist!
As the sensor are so important in the systems operation, a failure ends up being classified as a DPF fault; when you look at the bigger picture....many different issues can stop regen!
OMG! Just read through this post last night and now I have the two lights of death flashing (DPF and Coil) on my dash board!!!! how much is this gonna set me back or should it be covered by warranty?? Ive only had the car for two months and previously the dpf light has came on twice and cleared (just had the 40000 mile service from Seat) Ive phoned the dealer and they said it would be at least three hours labour and if it needs a DPF filter its gonna cost £1800 ++?????? credit crunch!!!!!! Now I dont know what Im meant to be doing driving fast?? or driving slow??? put it this way Im not going anywhere at the moment...............................................any thoughts????
Had my DPF light come on for the first time yesterday.
20 mins on the motorway in 5th soon sorted it
20 mins on the motorway in 5th soon sorted it
SEATgod
Guest
Shaw...go straight to the Dealer!!
They will carry out a number of checks....if any sensors fault then it should be under warranty.
If you have no fault codes stored other than filter trap bank 1 malfunction (or similar), expect to pay for thye regen as it will be classed as non compliance (to the regen parameters) causing the issue!
I hope it is the earlier! But you have had it come on twice already in a short periiod which says something!!
If a sensor fault occurred, it would fill up every 50 miles or less!!
They will carry out a number of checks....if any sensors fault then it should be under warranty.
If you have no fault codes stored other than filter trap bank 1 malfunction (or similar), expect to pay for thye regen as it will be classed as non compliance (to the regen parameters) causing the issue!
I hope it is the earlier!
But you have had it come on twice already in a short periiod which says something!!If a sensor fault occurred, it would fill up every 50 miles or less!!
I got my FR one year ago and had several DPF episodes in the first 2K miles, including limp mode activation - each time, went back to dealers and took no crap from them about driver misuse.
Was devistated at the time, what with this being my first Diesel, but thankfully, must have been settling in pains, as I have had no PDF lights or associated problems for the past 20K.
Lots of other crap has had me at dealers every couple of months though BUT still loving the car......!
Mike
57FRTDI, Crono, 18", Curpa Grill, BT, Alu Trim, Muddies and Mats.
Was devistated at the time, what with this being my first Diesel, but thankfully, must have been settling in pains, as I have had no PDF lights or associated problems for the past 20K.
Lots of other crap has had me at dealers every couple of months though
BUT still loving the car......!Mike
57FRTDI, Crono, 18", Curpa Grill, BT, Alu Trim, Muddies and Mats.
I've seen the DPF light about three times, once about 20k miles, once a couple of months ago and once last night!! I was about 5 mins away from a bypass so I thought I'd go there and do the 4th gear thing, rather than through town, lol - by the time I'd got there, the light had gone off!!
I know the manual says drive in 4h or 5th at 2000rpm but would 6th at 2000rpm also do the same trick?
It's just the only time i've seen my DPF light come on i'd been from brum to dover and back a few days before so would have thought that drive would have cleared anything out. Although i had been ragging it about a few country lanes just before it came on.
It's just the only time i've seen my DPF light come on i'd been from brum to dover and back a few days before so would have thought that drive would have cleared anything out. Although i had been ragging it about a few country lanes just before it came on.
SEATgod
Guest
Yes.....its the engine revs not the gear!!
As much load as possible!!
Highest gear, lowest revs you can drive at! ;-)
As much load as possible!!
Highest gear, lowest revs you can drive at! ;-)
Deleted member 23024
Guest
So my original question to speed has nothing to do with it as its possible to drive at 80 at 2200 revs so the dealer is full of crap
And why does my manual say above 2000 revs?
