Cupra R go-stop-go acceleration!

[Gubien]

Hi all

I've recently got a Cupra R 210 (2003).
If I give it a little constant trotle in 1 gear, the car sometimes accelerates-stops accelerating-and then accelerates again. Even though the throttle is constant.

I have also noticed that in 2 gear.

Wtf is this? Should I go to the dealer and tell him to fix it?

Best regards, Thomas

 

[longman]

Hi Mate

This sort of hesitation is really common on both LCR and LC. I have it on my LC at the moment and it its quite irritating. Especially when you think you have cured it.

I assume its the same where you toe it and there is no problem, it only happens on light and constant throttle?

I have tried cleaning the MAF sensor, that seemed to work for a while, but its back so I will be trying a new one soon.

There is a guide on the guide pages if you want to try that.

 

[Bizz]

Hi,

I've noticed that mine does this, in third gear too!!!!! I thought it was something to do with the map but I dont think there's any need for concern.

Anymore info on the subject would be nice though.

 

[longman]

Have a searchy for "Hesitation" or "Power Loss". All the symptoms seem the same and no one really has ever found an answer.

I thought I had when I cleaned the MAF a while ago but its back. This is what has pointed me to it still being that. Will definitely try a new one soon.

The man at my garage has said some interesting stuff about MAFs being really sensitive and tolerances being tight on good to bad airflow causing this hesitiation and sometimes lights on dash etc!

That would also explain how even new MAFs cause a problem with some cars!

He reckons he can program this out with an ECU Map - Dunno!!

 

[andycupra]

my first thought was maf. on light throttle any variances in the reading would be exagerated.

could try running with it unplugged, and see, may run slightly down on power as it will use safer settings. but if it gets rid of hesitiation it may point to this.

if you do this, when maf is unplugged you will get a light on the dash and traction control wont work.
when you plug it back in with ignition off it will go away!
could be an idea to do this when engine is cold and do a throttle body alignment while you have the tools out:
firstly check you have code for head unit. should be in manual.
remove negative of battery for few mins (10mm spanner), reconnect, ignition on but engine not running. leave for 3 mins or till highpitched whine from engine has stopped before starting.

 

[longman]

Andy... Totally agree with the first line mate. Thats what I think will be difficult to get away from without some kind of tweek in the ECU map to steady the readings.

It would be interesting to know if anyone with a remap still has this problem.

I have tried new MAFs (Crap ebay ones) and I just get Limp mode and a light on. Althought I didn't have the hesitation, I have given up with them.... Definitely worth getting a proper Bosh one from Dealer or VAGparts etc!

 

[Ruddmeister]

It's worth first trying a throttle realignment, simple to do.......All these cars have the fly-by-wire throttle

 

[Cupra_joeboy]

this is prob totaly wrong and i might even sound/look stupid after this but, do the 1.8 20vt engines have coil packs? if they do it could be that as on my (now dont laugh) saxo vts, this was the problem, really easy to fix but it had me guessing for a while.

 

[CRAIGLCR]

like andy says try running the car with the MAF unplugged!! when my MAF went this was the trial that the dealer did with my car. sure enough when i took it back out onto the road with it unplugged the hesitation had gone!!! New MAF please - under warranty!!!!!!

 

[longman]

this is prob totaly wrong and i might even sound/look stupid after this but, do the 1.8 20vt engines have coil packs? if they do it could be that as on my (now dont laugh) saxo vts, this was the problem, really easy to fix but it had me guessing for a while.

Yes mate, they do and its another common fault. Although, i'd say that you'd feel the effect of a dodgy one all throught the rev range... Could be wrong though having not suffered.... Yet!

 

[CRAIGLCR]

think if coilpacks are on their way out you get a missfire. So you would deffo know if it was one!!!!

 

[Mitchy]

The problem is likely to be your N75 valve is on its way out. Under reading MAF would only show itself with a drop in performance.

N75 shows itself by the symptoms you have described, its this valve that controls the boost created by the turbo.

Change your MAF anyway as its always a good idea to do if its not been done before especially as car is now 4 yrs old, they do deteriorate over time. And change the N75 valve.

About £60 for N75 and £80ish for MAF.

Half hour to change them over.

Defo not coilpacks. Coil pack would misfire and you would get a flashing amber engine light.

 

[longman]

Mitchy.... Would the N75 valve show symptoms when not on boost?
This problem is sub 3,000 revs, once on boost my car seems fine.

 

[andycupra]

agreed, n75 is another option.
unplugging maf and throttle alignment costs nothing and is easy, so thats a good place to start for nowt.

 

[jonathanp]

I changed my breather pipe yesterday and this seemed to reduce the problem (old pipe was split) going to replace the PCV valve next and see if that helps

 

[Mitchy]

Mitchy.... Would the N75 valve show symptoms when not on boost?
This problem is sub 3,000 revs, once on boost my car seems fine.

If its surging and closing wastegate when it shouldn't then yes it is possible. Doesn't matter if your on part throttle.

Do you have a boost gauge?

When it happened with mine, i would be on part throttle just as you do day to day and then wastegate would close, boost gauge would rise and then wastegate would open again and boost would drop, all on part throttle which made it highly annoying as your not wanting 20psi of boost on part throttle.

Changed N75 and solved the problem

 

[longman]

Hmm Interesting. Thanks Mitchy.

I haven't got a gauge at the moment, the N75 is worth a try though by the sound of it. I'l try and rob one as a trial perhaps.

 

[Gubien]

Hi all

The car is totally standard, the car came to denmark ind 2004(is a 2003 model) and was on the road for the first time in 03.2005.

The car has done 39.500 km, is it possible that the N75 valve and the MAF faulty when the car has on run 39.500?

I will go to the dealer as he shall provide 6 months full warranty. But point out the good comment you all gave me.

The n75 valve seems very plausible!

Best regards, Thomas, Denmark

 

[Bizz]

Unplugged the MAF last night when giving her a service.

Ran it for a bit then reconnected. Keyed-on and listened for the throttle body to re-align and away she went without a jump or jolt at all!!!!!



Cheers for the advice all

 

[Cupra_joeboy]

good news then,