Cracked Tyres

Big Vinny

Active Member
Oct 14, 2012
231
56
I've got the original Dunlop Sport Max tyres on a 2019 FR. The front tyres have just been replaced at 3 years and 12k miles with major cracking between the tread blocks on the front and minor cracking on the back.

These tyres have been cracked for at least a year but have been replaced now ready for the first MOT this week. All 4 tyres have been run at 33psi.

This shouldn't really happen should it ?
 

Seriously?

Active Member
Apr 20, 2018
1,395
980
We've had minor cracking where the sidewall meets the tread on our 2018 ST-factory fitted Hankook Ventus Prime.
Pressures have always been set correctly at the given 'comfort' setting. I'm guessing the cracking is due to UV degredation.
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,745
848
I had it on some Nokian winter tyres, at the time I thought WTF - but after searching I found cases with ALL tyre manufactures,

This is what Goodyear have to say about it:

UV, Ozone, heat and lack of use seem to be major causes.
 
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Jay5959

FR 184
Apr 26, 2020
502
259
Had this on contis contact sports too (several years old). Assumed it was normal over time.
 
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I've got the original Dunlop Sport Max tyres on a 2019 FR. The front tyres have just been replaced at 3 years and 12k miles with major cracking between the tread blocks on the front and minor cracking on the back.

These tyres have been cracked for at least a year but have been replaced now ready for the first MOT this week. All 4 tyres have been run at 33psi.

This shouldn't really happen should it ?
Was talking to my neighbour today, he has a 2020 ST with Dunlops, all 4 showing cracking severe enough to need replacement. Only came to his attention because of a puncture in one. Not sure if the tyres had been sitting about for a while, they came up as 4 years old.
 

BigJase88

Jase
Apr 20, 2008
3,765
1,074
I have Dunlop Sport Maxx's on the missus Mini Cooper

They look brand new and date stamped 0718. So week 7 2018.


So not an all encompassing fault
 

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Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
546
150
Tyre rubber cracking is not a new phenomenon but something which many people are blissfully unaware of because it involves a wee bit of effort to notice. Super V8 has listed the main "culprits" above but the main thing to take on board is that rubber hardens and becomes less flexible as it ages and you can't really stop it from doing this. You can slow the process by trying to avoid direct sunshine falling on the tyres, especially if you're not going to be moving the car for a while - number of days - of course a cool dark garage would be even better, and either putting the car up on blocks or inflating the tyre to it's max permissible pressure if for some months. If you want to go more deeply into this subject there's loads to look at on line.

Surface cracking is of little consequence but you don't want to let it get deep enough to allow moisture to reach the steel belt bracing layer under the tread which is how most modern radials are constructed as it will rust which will weaken it but also destroy the bond between the rubber and the casing so may well throw a tread when you are going fast - we've all seen tread rubber at the side of the motorway from destroyed tyres, haven't we? Tyre rubber and the cords of the casing are made from incredibly tough materials. If they partially shred, apart from the lack of vehicle control if at high speed, they can do an enormous amount of damage to body and mechanical parts of the car. It's not something you want to experience.

However, a slightly more subtle warning is being imparted to you when your tyres start cracking, which few people ever consider. They are cracking because the rubber has aged and become less compliant (harder) a direct result of this lack of compliance is that the tyre will not grip the road anything like as well as when it was new. I was reminded of this when I recently decided to change the tyres on my Ibiza. The original "big name" tyres had done well, although I always thought they were not as good in the wet as I would have liked, having done some 24,500 miles in six years of ownership and still with 3mm aprox on them. I don't like to go much below 2mm on tread, they were showing signs of light cracking and were prone to ploughing straight on (under steering) if pushed into a corner in the wet - very annoying on roundabouts. This was undoubtedly due to the tread rubber hardening. Here's a couple of pics of the cracking

P1090762.JPG


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If your tyres exhibit these cracks then they are not dangerous in terms of likelyhood to structural failure - unless other problems exist. However stuff like braking distance and cornering performance will most likely be nowhere near what the manufacturer promised.

This next tyre is on our Panda.

P1090766.JPG


I bought it to replace this old Barum

P1090767.JPG


which had reached the 2mm but also was worn on the outer shoulder due to a worn bottom suspension arm on that side. The disappointing bit is that the Barum - a brand I like a lot (now owned by Continental) was somewhere around 6 or 7 years old and showing no noticeable cracking whereas the new, "budget" tyre started to show these cracks after about 2 years. As you can see, it's not done many miles either. Ah well, you buy cheap and take your chances I suppose. I'm still not really very sure why I bought it because I usually buy "upper" mid range brands of tyres - like the Barums -This one was offered at a price I just couldn't refuse though and by a local small tyre supply outlet where I've bought bargains before. The name was unknown to me but it was one of those weird names you so often see on tyres from "dodgy" far eastern manufacturers. Oh well, you live and learn. I bought Falkens for the Ibiza and I'm delighted with them. I've just driven Edinburgh to Salisbury then Devon and back to Edinburgh on them. The outward journey was nearly 3 weeks ago and in absolutely torrential rain for much of the journey. Driving quite quickly down the A702 in heavy rain was a delight with excellent grip both on corners and braking (it would have been clean underware needed to have tried it on the old tyres) and cruising on the M6 and M5 felt surefooted in a way that the old tyres never did even when new.

So, if you see appreciable cracking of the rubber on your tyres - and don't ignore the sidewalls too will you, especially around the "bead" - where the tyre seals to the rim. If it's on the sidewall you probably need to renew the tyre unless it's very obviously surface crazing only. If it's in the tread take a small screwdriver and try to open the crack to see how deep it goes - you are unlikely to do any further "damage" to the tread with a sensibly used screwdriver. It would have to be sharp and you'd need to be very rough with it to do that. If you recon the crack is getting anywhere near the casing cords (and I've seen them where you can see the steel cords if you do this) then it's time for a new tyre. Keep in mind too that a tyre displaying general surface (not deep) cracking is trying to tell you to take things easy because it's likely not to grip very well and especially in the wet.
 

Seastormer

Cupra Leon VZ2 300/CBF1000
Apr 25, 2014
5,330
853
69
Edinburgh (Scotland)
The Bridgestone OE tyres on my 11y old CBF 1000 GT are still without any cracks, as bike kept in cool dark lockup all the time. Only used on dry/sunny days so not out much and only done about 5500 miles. I have decided to get new tyres fitted at next service as they must have hardened and the latest ones will be a lot better technically after nearly 12 years.
 
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Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
546
150
The Bridgestone OE tyres on my 11y old CBF 1000 GT are still without any cracks, as bike kept in cool dark lockup all the time. Only used on dry/sunny days so not out much and only done about 5500 miles. I have decided to get new tyres fitted at next service as they must have hardened and the latest ones will be a lot better technically after nearly 12 years.
Especially relevant to 'bikes!
 

SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,745
848
This was my Nokian winter tyres from my other car.
Loads of tread life left but I noticed a continuous 'crack' around the shoulder of both tyres from the same axle. when it was at pressure on the wheel didn't look too bad.
It was only when I broke the bead to take the tyre off the alloy to clean it due to corrosion of the bead & air leakage - and I flexed the tyre that I could see how deep the crack was! I could flex the tyre and see cords!! scrap tyres now! Less than half worn - but they were 7 years old. Used half the year, then stored in my garage.
I was topping the air up in both tyres weekly when in use due to leakage, and both tyres had the same crack issue, only on the outside corner. They were occasionally used at below recommended eco pressure of 35psi - due to the leakage - probably down to 20psi occasionally but these were only on the rear axle of our Colt which is a very light car even at 20psi the tyre never looked squashed/under inflated..

1651043546460.png
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
8,047
1,099
South Scotland
Luckily as both my cars get garaged, the winter and summer tyres are still okay, even although the S4's winter tyres are 8 years old, I know that ultimate "snow/cold weather" effectiveness will have reduced, but maybe I'll leave them for another year, as they Michelin Alpins, they do try to last for ever, which, now that we are both retired, is not really a good selling point as tread wear is minimal!
 

Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
546
150
This was my Nokian winter tyres from my other car.
Loads of tread life left but I noticed a continuous 'crack' around the shoulder of both tyres from the same axle. when it was at pressure on the wheel didn't look too bad.
It was only when I broke the bead to take the tyre off the alloy to clean it due to corrosion of the bead & air leakage - and I flexed the tyre that I could see how deep the crack was! I could flex the tyre and see cords!! scrap tyres now! Less than half worn - but they were 7 years old. Used half the year, then stored in my garage.
I was topping the air up in both tyres weekly when in use due to leakage, and both tyres had the same crack issue, only on the outside corner. They were occasionally used at below recommended eco pressure of 35psi - due to the leakage - probably down to 20psi occasionally but these were only on the rear axle of our Colt which is a very light car even at 20psi the tyre never looked squashed/under inflated..

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I was just taking another wee look at this thread to see if anyone else had contributed something of interest and it occurred to me that your shoulder crack is actually very interesting.

For those who don't know how tyres are made here's a good video all about it:
If you already know basically how a tyre is assembled then start watching at around 3 minutes 20 seconds in and you'll see how the tread rubber is applied to the casing. The rubber used in the casing is completely different to the rubber used in the tread layer and my bet would be that your crack is forming at the join between the two types of rubber.

I found this video particularly interesting because back in the late 60's/early 70's I worked for Firestone's Racing Division based at the beautiful old Art Deco factory at Brentford. If you google Wikipedia "Firestone Tyre Factory" you can see quite a good picture of the frontage. To get to our division you would drive in the gate nearest you in the picture and along the building frontage then round to the left at the end and continue to the back of the site. The building was suddenly, and very quickly, demolished - it's rumoured to avoid it being listed which would have stopped the developers? - but I'd moved on into the mainstream motor trade by then. I find it interesting to see the degree of automation now employed because at Brentford nearly everything was done by hand. I didn't work on the production side but sometimes had to consult with people in the main factory and I remember in particular the raw rubber receiving room where the bales of raw product were "unleashed". As the bands constraining the bales were cut the bales would spring violently apart and sometimes venomous spiders and snakes etc would be "liberated". I count myself as lucky never to have witnessed this but there were many hair raising tales circulating about the "exciting" events. Another very dangerous and "physical" job was on the rolling mills where the raw rubber constituents are rolled between two very large rollers which mix and combine the various constituents which make up the compounds. The job involved cutting and turning in the rubber as it was being rolled to stop it sticking to the roller and make sure it combined evenly. Very sharp and large knives were involved and the chaps who worked there all looked as if they were candidates for Mr Universe. Stories of serious cuts and crushed limbs abounded!
 
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SuperV8

Active Member
May 30, 2019
1,745
848
I was just taking another wee look at this thread to see if anyone else had contributed something of interest and it occurred to me that your shoulder crack is actually very interesting.

For those who don't know how tyres are made here's a good video all about it:
If you already know basically how a tyre is assembled then start watching at around 3 minutes 20 seconds in and you'll see how the tread rubber is applied to the casing. The rubber used in the casing is completely different to the rubber used in the tread layer and my bet would be that your crack is forming at the join between the two types of rubber.
Very interesting, so this is probably not the 'dry rot' cracking issue. Is there a main/probable cause for this?
The tyres were well outside Nokian's 5 year warranty, however the OEM conti's which i'm using for summer tyres are sill going strong.
Could occasional running at low (20psi) pressure cause this? It's only a town/school run car - less than 5000 miles per year so it's not pounding up and down the motorway with flat tyres, and strange that both tyres on the same axle did this.
 

Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
546
150
Very interesting, so this is probably not the 'dry rot' cracking issue. Is there a main/probable cause for this?
The tyres were well outside Nokian's 5 year warranty, however the OEM conti's which i'm using for summer tyres are sill going strong.
Could occasional running at low (20psi) pressure cause this? It's only a town/school run car - less than 5000 miles per year so it's not pounding up and down the motorway with flat tyres, and strange that both tyres on the same axle did this.
I'm afraid I'm the wrong person to be giving you a definitive answer. My experience of the production side of tyres is really all related to competition tyres. The tyres I was working with would be fresh out of the factory so age related problems really weren't an issue. I later worked for a while in the tyre supply trade but that involved the supply and fitting of tyres. Faulty tyres would be returned to the relevant manufacturer for examination and warranty decisions, we were actively discouraged from offering opinions.

I can say though that cleanliness is absolutely paramount when assembling the component parts of the tyre. The various layers of "green" rubber stick together naturally during the curing process, no adhesive etc is used. In fact the raw compounded product which comes off the rolling mills is very soft and extremely sticky, a but like very sticky black Licorice. If the surfaces are contaminated in any way, you mustn't even touch them with a bare hand, then they won't stick properly and the tyre will almost certainly delaminate where the contamination is present. With modern automated assembly contamination is very unlikely so I think it far more likely that your particular problem is due to the tread and casing rubbers, being of different composition - as is the case in all tyres - As they have aged they will "harden" - other changes take place too - and the crack has developed due to the difference in compliance between the two rubber compounds? Especially as both tyres are the same make/brand and displaying the same problem.
 
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