I have come to the conclusion that the springs on my FK coilovers are crap/too soft.
How do I go about selecting alternate springs?
How do I go about selecting alternate springs?
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how low have you got them wound stu? can you go any lower as i think they are progressive the lower you go the stiffer they get.
im pretty sure its the opposite to what was just said, as the lower you go the more you space out the top and bottom of the spring and therefor are making it a much looser wind and then the spring has more travel, making it softer.....
If you get me
If you get me
if you know what they are already, then just buy new ones (tweeks, gpr)
otherwise you're shooting fish in a barrel
I'd still try raising it though, as you 'need' some compliance - the ARB is to stop roll, not springs
otherwise you're shooting fish in a barrel
I'd still try raising it though, as you 'need' some compliance - the ARB is to stop roll, not springs
Inc Wire diameter, inc spring weight
Inc Spring diameter, decrease spring weight
Inc no. coils, decrease spring weight
With a linear rate spring, preloading does not alter the spring weight, 1st inch of travel has same weight as second inch of travel
With a progressive weight spring, preloading can greatly affect the rate, usually progressive springs have different spacing on coils so that as they compress, narrower spaced coils become coilbound and thus are taken out of the spring - fewer coils = increased spring weight. Sometimes, the coils change outer diameter also - seem this on koni coliovers.
Springs is a trial and error thing and largely down to personal preference - and the best is the softest spring that will do the job, soft spring=tyre on road=good thing. The main handling characteristic of the car comes from spring rates F/R and ARB's are supposed to be only for fune tuning this inherent balance.
You ideally want a spring that will have your car with level wishbones on average for the most time at a given track - this is the point of optimum geometry, least geometry change for a given amount of suspension movement, and thus most grip. For a FWD car, best bet is to set this for the front first and then fine tune the back to give a handling that you like to match the front. On a hatchback, because of the crap design, the arb's play a big part in this as to stop roll, the spring would have to to too hard to soak up the bumps. On a proper race car, they rarely have arbs.
Good luck.
Inc Spring diameter, decrease spring weight
Inc no. coils, decrease spring weight
With a linear rate spring, preloading does not alter the spring weight, 1st inch of travel has same weight as second inch of travel
With a progressive weight spring, preloading can greatly affect the rate, usually progressive springs have different spacing on coils so that as they compress, narrower spaced coils become coilbound and thus are taken out of the spring - fewer coils = increased spring weight. Sometimes, the coils change outer diameter also - seem this on koni coliovers.
Springs is a trial and error thing and largely down to personal preference - and the best is the softest spring that will do the job, soft spring=tyre on road=good thing. The main handling characteristic of the car comes from spring rates F/R and ARB's are supposed to be only for fune tuning this inherent balance.
You ideally want a spring that will have your car with level wishbones on average for the most time at a given track - this is the point of optimum geometry, least geometry change for a given amount of suspension movement, and thus most grip. For a FWD car, best bet is to set this for the front first and then fine tune the back to give a handling that you like to match the front. On a hatchback, because of the crap design, the arb's play a big part in this as to stop roll, the spring would have to to too hard to soak up the bumps. On a proper race car, they rarely have arbs.
Good luck.
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Perfectly aware what springs & ARB's do/wont do
Funnily enough FK doesn't tell what the springs rates are....
Shooting fish in a barrel yes but need acertain a benchmark somhow...
Looking at a tweeks catologue its no one size fits all.
Well, you need to measure your existing setup to get spring height & diameter....
You should be able to get a spring off & get it's stiffness measured.
I do think in the short term you will want to raise the car though. bent 'shaft' isn't going to be fun
You should be able to get a spring off & get it's stiffness measured.
I do think in the short term you will want to raise the car though. bent 'shaft' isn't going to be fun
faulkners springs in chichester will measure them for you
http://www.dfaulknersprings.co.uk/
good starting place for an ibiza is 300F 200R (lbs/inch) linear rate, length and diameter to suit your shocks - cordy may need a bit more out back though
if you pick the length right, your wishbones should end up about level, having the car so low is doing no good at all
http://www.dfaulknersprings.co.uk/
good starting place for an ibiza is 300F 200R (lbs/inch) linear rate, length and diameter to suit your shocks - cordy may need a bit more out back though
if you pick the length right, your wishbones should end up about level, having the car so low is doing no good at all
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I was expecting that if I were to go to bods at tweeks and ask for set of springs for my fk coilovers I'd get funny looks
Car isnt that low, nor am after the pimp daddy look - somthing is amiss when I chuck the car hard into the corner and getting the shaft catching.
I do have immense body roll but under no illusions that stiffer springs will cure that
The donuts on the shaft, this is whats catching your inner wing (i think). Its when you turn hard left? If you get your right wheel off you will see the doghnut thingy and then you will see the damage its done to your inner wing. Lop it off with a grinder. I spoke to you at awesome, as soon as i got back i cut it off and dropped the car more
The 'donut' is catching in the same place but the actual shaft is grounding out on the leg at that point too
Cutting the donut off isnt going to solve my issues
Cutting the donut off isnt going to solve my issues
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stu, would it be more worthwhile selling the coilovers and fitting a decent set of shocks and dampers, financially you may be as well doing it than trial and error plus the shocks will hopefully have a slightly longer body and stop the contact.
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