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Cig fuse blown. Hardwired dashcam. Not the main fuse tho. Small fuse location????

Nigel Wheeler

Active Member
Jan 2, 2019
5
3
Chelmsford
I've had my cam hardwired now for about a year odd. The fuse has blown but it's not the main 20amp one. I remember there being a second, smaller fuse above but can't remember which one? Any one clued up in this department? Cheers guys.
 

Legojon

I only wanted a remap
Staff member
Moderator
Jul 7, 2015
5,309
2,739
Did you use a piggy back kit like this with the original fuse and then a 2a piggy?
oT5gEsi.jpg
 

Nigel Wheeler

Active Member
Jan 2, 2019
5
3
Chelmsford
Thanks for the reply.
It is just like the pic above yes. I could actually kick myself because I didn't think to check the earth. It could well be that as I used the screw inside the left panel of the dash. (Passenger door side) I remember at the time thinking it wasn't the best earth point. I'll get on that this evening. If it turns out not to be the earth, do you know the location of the secondary fuse? I read on here a while back that it commonly blows.
 

kiddo

ST Cupra
May 30, 2015
1,151
99
Lancashire
Doesn't appear to be an inline fuse from the pic. Have you checked the piggy back fuse?
 
Last edited:

EFF11

Active Member
Jun 16, 2016
138
38
Agree with Walone. Your first job is to ensure that the camera is working from the car supply.

That black box in your picture is there to shut down the camera when the battery voltage is low. It is intended to protect the battery when the camera is controlled from a manual switch so that it can be left on when the car is parked. Cheap ones are not particularly reliable. If your car is switched from the ignition you don't need it. All you need is a correctly rated fuse
 
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Deleted member 98136

Guest
Didn't realise there was a "secondary" fuse.

When I wired up my earth, if I remember correctly there is another screw further up that support bracket nearer to the dash board metal support framing, that is the one I used.

Note : I had a mate who purchased a new dash cam and in his hurry to see if it worked rather than using the supplied lead, connected it direct to 12 Volt - resulting in a bricked dash cam........make sure when testing that you use the supplied lead(s)......It only needs a 5 Volt supply
 
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Deleted member 98136

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Thnaks Nigel,
Glad we have helped you sort it at minimal cost mate.
 
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