central locking query???

[ibiza95]

ok my alarm is all fitted and working great, except theres just one problem, my central locking doesnt work 100%. you see i can lock it then leave it for about 10mins then try unlock it again but nothing, if i pull the fue out of the fuse box then put it back it works again until i leave it for a little while then the same thing all over again. anybody have any ideas on my problem??

 

[GTV]

have you checked the earths?
sounds strange

 

[captin_urbis]

would like to help but i havent a clue, cant even source the sollution to my pump not working lol

 

[ibiza95]

its very strange, cant get it working every time,

 

[Fl@pper]

is the alarm supplying the correct voltages on both locking feed lines ?

for example - if when armed the alarm supplies +12v then pump turns itself off til auto shut off (air pressure) but continues to supply that voltage on the lock line

however when the alarm unlocks it still supplies +12v down both the pump won't know wether to lock/unlock therefore do nothing at all

pulling the fuse disconnects the voltage reseting it so might explain why it works once after


i would disconnect the locking side of the alarm and test the central locking works good on its own (#5 rule) if it works 5 times it's good when i do it

then with a multimeter test the alarm's wires you are using to see what they really do when on/off etc for a few times, might explain what's happening once you know what does what and when

 

[ibiza95]

this is the multimeter i have, do you know what i have to plug in where and switch to what for testing the pump electrics for the central locking??

 

[Fl@pper]

black lead - in COM

red lead - in V

switch on

turn to white 20 V= (2 clicks right)

stick black on -ve / red on +ve of the battery and see if it shows 12v more or less

 

[ibiza95]

aha thank you, dont normally use one of these but i orderd it yesterday and it was delivered today, useful

 

[Fl@pper]

i got a few and usually stumble my way through check the symbols for white V is DC current if it's new - hence the battery check as i can never remember i cheat and keep a simple one handy for quick reference

once you get it working grab a mate and hold black to a clean metal part of the body (earth)

then logically test the wires with red

note down (i do it helps) what does what and when

 

[jtonline]

I'd say you're correct Fl@pper, on the image the white V figures are the DC range because the V has the DC symbol beside it. The yellow V figures are the AC range because the yellow V has a wave symbol next to it.

It's really good to have a multimeter whenever you do anything with vehicle electrics (although it needn't be anything quite as posh as the one ibiza95's got) and you an pick them up quite cheaply these days.

 

[ibiza95]

didnt know it was a posh one, cost £8 delivered off of fleabay lol

 

[Fl@pper]

can never remember which one is which on mine so i go the same route - straight DC wavy AC lol

everytime i get a new one (lose em alot) it always seems to be something different