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I've done one on the mk1 and I would think they are the same engine wise. Hope you have a garage as its getting wet & windy these days. A torque wrench is a neccessity. Cam belt kits (Cambelt & tensioner) are around £38. Most people on this forum renew the water pump as well as its about £20 to buy and located at the rear & bottom offside of the engine.
The hardest part is removing the top half of the cam cover. All the work is carried out on the offside of the car.
From memory---
Remove spark plugs, makes the engine easier to turn later.
You would need to raise the front of the car with axle stands so you can comfortably work underneath.
Carefully support the engine with a trolley jack , use something like an 18" length off floorboard to spead the weight and protect the sump.
Draw the configuration of the aux. pulley wheels and the route the belt takes, believe me it's complicated and easily gotten wrong when you re-assemble.
Remove the offside hand top engine mounting and strap. loosen alternator. Remove wheel arch lining then remove the aux. drive belt by turning the tensioner anti clockwise, its spring loaded, with a socket & wrench bar, you will then be able to slip the belt off.
Remove top cambelt cover, clips and 10mm bolts.
lower the engine and remove the lower cam belt cover, same type of clips & 10mm. bolts. You may have to remove other pipes & bits but I can't remember them all.
Draw another diagram off the route the cambelt takes around the toothed pulleys for the same reason as the aux. belt.
Now the important bit, rotate the engine to find top dead centre marks on the cam pulley and the crankshaft, dimples or lines. Align the 2 pulleys with the marks on the engine block.
You can now remove the cam belt tensioner, and cam belt. Have a good look at the old tensioner and note or photo how it is fitted. My new cambelt kit came wth instructions on how to tension the device properly.
Now it is matter of fitting it all back together again in reverse of course.
Its a 4 to 5 hr. job in a proper garage, it will take a diy'er all day.
The hardest part is removing the top half of the cam cover. All the work is carried out on the offside of the car.
From memory---
Remove spark plugs, makes the engine easier to turn later.
You would need to raise the front of the car with axle stands so you can comfortably work underneath.
Carefully support the engine with a trolley jack , use something like an 18" length off floorboard to spead the weight and protect the sump.
Draw the configuration of the aux. pulley wheels and the route the belt takes, believe me it's complicated and easily gotten wrong when you re-assemble.
Remove the offside hand top engine mounting and strap. loosen alternator. Remove wheel arch lining then remove the aux. drive belt by turning the tensioner anti clockwise, its spring loaded, with a socket & wrench bar, you will then be able to slip the belt off.
Remove top cambelt cover, clips and 10mm bolts.
lower the engine and remove the lower cam belt cover, same type of clips & 10mm. bolts. You may have to remove other pipes & bits but I can't remember them all.
Draw another diagram off the route the cambelt takes around the toothed pulleys for the same reason as the aux. belt.
Now the important bit, rotate the engine to find top dead centre marks on the cam pulley and the crankshaft, dimples or lines. Align the 2 pulleys with the marks on the engine block.
You can now remove the cam belt tensioner, and cam belt. Have a good look at the old tensioner and note or photo how it is fitted. My new cambelt kit came wth instructions on how to tension the device properly.
Now it is matter of fitting it all back together again in reverse of course.
Its a 4 to 5 hr. job in a proper garage, it will take a diy'er all day.
thank you that was Similar threads
