Broken Clutch Pedal + Other causes of a stiff clutch pedal besides worn clutch

[A nice cupra T]

Hi everyone,

Firstly a little backstory:

I was driving along and suddenly the clutch pedal became stuck to floor. I called the AA and he improvised a quick fit to get me home, he gave me two pieces of plastic from behind the clutch pedal (A black piece and a white clip/peg shape thing). I asked if I needed to take to a main dealer to get it sorted and he said I didn't need to. I took it to a place where I get my tyres and MOT done and they said they couldn't fix it, they actually showed me a link (From the Cupra forum) on the issue: https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/clutch-pedal-sticking-down.391688/

So, I decided to take it to my SEAT Dealer, I told them the problem (Stuck to floor and temporary repair by AA) and they done a quick inspection and said I needed a new clutch pedal. They also said my clutch was a bit stiff and I (possibly) needed a new clutch. (Personally I didn't find the clutch that stiff tbh).

I booked my car into the SEAT dealer to have a new clutch pedal fitted, they said it would take an hour, TURNED INTO 2HRS 30MINS they were working on it. (luckily they only charged me the original one hour). When I got the car back the pedal sank to the floor almost immediately, so they checked it again and said it was probably air in the system.

With the new clutch pedal fitted the biting point is now different (more abrupt), the pedal travel feels shorter and it is STIFFER now, actually causing me foot ache.

On their notes they recommended a new clutch, which is £800+ for a SEAT clutch or £600+ for a aftermarket clutch fitted. Is there anything else that can cause a (now) stiff clutch pedal as I don't want to fork out that kind of money only for it to be something else they've missed/overlooked

 

[Legojon]

Just wonder if the new pedal will "wear in". Maybe get a second opinion off an Indy garage first. Generally for a stiff clutch I'd prob be looking at hydraulic fluid first (checking the level), making sure all the air is out, master cylinder, slave cylinder before replacing the clutch.

 

[SEAT Rule]

I've attached a picture from ETKA showing pretty much all the components for your clutch pedal.
I presume it was item number 25 in the picture that the AA guy showed you ?
This pedal set up is very much like the MK4 Golf.

2) clutch pedal box
3) hinge bolt for pedal
8) nylon hinge bushes
9) bolt guide sleeve
10) clutch pedal

13) damper return spring (2 different types are used) one for 5 speed with selector rods.
The other is for 6 speed with cable selector.

17) clutch master cylinder
23) clutch slave cylinder

25) white plastic retaining clip (secures master cylinder rod to back of clutch pedal.

Is the pedal notchy or squeaking when pressed down or when retuning back up to it's rest position ?
Ideally with a hydraulic clutch system the pedal should normally feel smooth, fairly light with the feel of slight pressure after passing halfway down including to it's full stop position on the floor, then should easily follow your foot up smoothly with out hesitant feel from pedal.

I'd get the system bled again as (Legojon) has mentioned, and see how it feels then, if it's still the same then I'd get someone to double check the pedal fitment & operation, if still no joy then, it could well possibly require a clutch kit.

Hope this helps
Si

 

[A nice cupra T]

Just wonder if the new pedal will "wear in". Maybe get a second opinion off an Indy garage first. Generally for a stiff clutch I'd prob be looking at hydraulic fluid first (checking the level), making sure all the air is out, master cylinder, slave cylinder before replacing the clutch.

Thanks for the reply I appreciate it.

They mentioned making sure all the air in the system was out as I drove away and pedal sank to floor almost immediately. (I didn't have this problem prior to taking it in, only after have a new pedal installed).

I have an update as of 06/08/20 PEDAL NOW STICKING, I keep having to raise it up with my toes.

I've returned it to the SEAT dealership 06/08/20 and they said basically said you what you suggested - I might need a new master cylinder and/or possibly the slave cylinder too. They said to try the master cylinder option first as it's the cheapest but if it turns out to be the slave cylinder they said it will be more costly as they gotta take gearbox out.


I'm guessing I might as well get clutch done at same time if have to go down the slave cylinder route? Christ this is gonna get expensive

 

[A nice cupra T]

I've attached a picture from ETKA showing pretty much all the components for your clutch pedal.
I presume it was item number 25 in the picture that the AA guy showed you ?
This pedal set up is very much like the MK4 Golf.

2) clutch pedal box
3) hinge bolt for pedal
8) nylon hinge bushes
9) bolt guide sleeve
10) clutch pedal

13) damper return spring (2 different types are used) one for 5 speed with selector rods.
The other is for 6 speed with cable selector.

17) clutch master cylinder
23) clutch slave cylinder

25) white plastic retaining clip (secures master cylinder rod to back of clutch pedal.

Is the pedal notchy or squeaking when pressed down or when retuning back up to it's rest position ?
Ideally with a hydraulic clutch system the pedal should normally feel smooth, fairly light with the feel of slight pressure after passing halfway down including to it's full stop position on the floor, then should easily follow your foot up smoothly with out hesitant feel from pedal.

I'd get the system bled again as (Legojon) has mentioned, and see how it feels then, if it's still the same then I'd get someone to double check the pedal fitment & operation, if still no joy then, it could well possibly require a clutch kit.

Hope this helps
Si

Cheers for your reply Si.

Very informative cheers, I think I'd rather pay you to work on my car instead of the SEAT garage lol.

I will upload the 2 plastic parts the AA operative gave me are below. I didn't have them with me when I visited the SEAT dealership to have the new clutch pedal fitted so they just installed the white peg shaped part as they had one in stock, I have now give them both plastic parts whilst they deal with a new problem (See below).The reason why pedal was replaced was because of a tiny piece of metal broke that off that holds the clip I think

With new clutch pedal fitted it didn't feel notchy or squeaky, just felt stiff and kinda spongy.


As of 06/08/20 the clutch pedal starting becoming stuck and I had to raise it up with my toes. (never happened before I had new clutch pedal installed)

The SEAT dealership said I might need both a new clutch master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder. They said to try the master cylinder first as it's the cheaper option, and if no luck to get the slave cylinder done next. I'm now kinda glad I didn't buy a new clutch like SEAT dealership previously suggested whilst I has having the new pedal fitted initially.

Thanks again.

 

[SEAT Rule]

Cheers for your reply Si.

Very informative cheers, I think I'd rather pay you to work on my car instead of the SEAT garage lol.

I will upload the 2 plastic parts the AA operative gave me are below. I didn't have them with me when I visited the SEAT dealership to have the new clutch pedal fitted so they just installed the white peg shaped part as they had one in stock, I have now give them both plastic parts whilst they deal with a new problem (See below).The reason why pedal was replaced was because of a tiny piece of metal broke that off that holds the clip I think

With new clutch pedal fitted it didn't feel notchy or squeaky, just felt stiff and kinda spongy.


As of 06/08/20 the clutch pedal starting becoming stuck and I had to raise it up with my toes. (never happened before I had new clutch pedal installed)

The SEAT dealership said I might need both a new clutch master cylinder and a clutch slave cylinder. They said to try the master cylinder first as it's the cheaper option, and if no luck to get the slave cylinder done next. I'm now kinda glad I didn't buy a new clutch like SEAT dealership previously suggested whilst I has having the new pedal fitted initially.

Thanks again.

No worries glad to be of help ?

I've been looking at a few things online, and below is what I've found, mainly a photo and video from a website page.
The white plastic item is n.o 25 in my previous post picture, and the black plastic switch stop cap is n.o 7
(The same as in your photos with part number 1J2 721 332A)

In the attached YouTube video the guy is working on a MK4 Golf, but the clutch pedal is virtually the same as your SEAT.
Like you mentioned the small metal stop plate cracks & snaps off, looks like it's only just spot welded on from when the car was first made, the guy welds it back on but does talk about using a bolt to reinforce the end, of the clip channel to help stop the clip & plunger rod from master cylinder punching through it.

The photo below has two green arrows just showing where the white plastic retaining clip sits (25), and how to remove it.
Plus to the left of the green arrows you'll see where the black plastic switch stop cap attaches (7)

Si

 

[A nice cupra T]

No worries glad to be of help ?

I've been looking at a few things online, and below is what I've found, mainly a photo and video from a website page.
The white plastic item is n.o 25 in my previous post picture, and the black plastic switch stop cap is n.o 7
(The same as in your photos with part number 1J2 721 332A)

In the attached YouTube video the guy is working on a MK4 Golf, but the clutch pedal is virtually the same as your SEAT.
Like you mentioned the small metal stop plate cracks & snaps off, looks like it's only just spot welded on from when the car was first made, the guy welds it back on but does talk about using a bolt to reinforce the end, of the clip channel to help stop the clip & plunger rod from master cylinder punching through it.

The photo below has two green arrows just showing where the white plastic retaining clip sits (25), and how to remove it.
Plus to the left of the green arrows you'll see where the black plastic switch stop cap attaches (7)

Si

Cheers for vid Si.

I'd preferred someone to have done that sturdy repair with mine but garage I took it to originally said I would need to go to dealership as it was something they couldn't do (Funny thing is I asked AA dude who done a quick repair if I would need to go to a Main dealer to get issue sorted and he said no). So I took it to SEAT and they said I needed a new clutch pedal.

SEAT garage said because clutch was stiff the (New) clutch pedal could break too. Must be made out of chocolate or something lol.

As I said previously pedal is now sticking too, so they're gonna change the clutch master cylinder and then if that doesn't work (Depending on cost) it will be the clutch slave cylinder next. I just hope it's not something simple (cheap) they've overlooked from your list

If (And that's a big IF) I did get the clutch slave cylinder done too, do you think it would be worthwhile getting clutch done at the same time? Would this save on labour costs? Also what about the Duel Mass Flywheel, would it be beneficial getting that sorted at same time? How do I know if mine is bad?

Thank you.

 

[SEAT Rule]

I've been reading through the below attached thread about conversion from Dual Mass Flywheel over to Solid/Single Mass Flywheel. They talk about the pros & cons of both plus cost of each.

Dual mass flywheel problem solved

OK, not on the Leon, but on my Octavia TDI PD 1.9, which effectively has the same drivetrain as the Leon diesels. I've been having problems with the Octavia vibrating on acceleration for a few weeks, and it was getting worse. Skoda main agent diagnosed the problem as a failing DMF, and wanted...

www.seatcupra.net

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Regarding your DMF unfortunately it's a known weak part throughout the whole VAG, they normally only last 5 to 6 years have been known to last 8 years, all comes down to quality of part and possibly your driving style.
I know it's hellish expensive but it's advisable to replace the DMF when ever you're having a new clutch kit fitted.

Helpful video attached

I remember Mitsubishi with their MK1 and early MK2 Shogun had SMF which were normally fine, a part from the flywheel ring gear being made of butter, the starter motor's would always rip the teeth off them. Then the later MK2 had the DMF which then became a known weakness in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

Si

 

[Alexis27]

If your clutch was fine before the pedal went it'll still be fine. A new clutch gives you a lighter pedal, an older one tends to make the pedal a bit stiffer, but that's all.
Probably one of your cylinders to blame. What mileage is your clutch on?

 

[Maria]

Is that for some titanium or gold plated clutch? The LUK in my 1.6 was 500 fitted including a load of issues with some rod being worn too short and a bearing exploded. Must admit I didn't understand a word this guy was explaining about this rod being short and it being the weirdest clutch arrangement he's seen in 49 years running his garage but I trust him (he's proper old school) and it's fixed.