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Brembo rebuild

g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
437
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Has anyone attempted a DIY brembo rebuild?

I recently acquired a set from our favourite breaker with a view to stripping, painting rebuilding etc.
The pads are out and I popped the pistons/seals out (using a bike pump!!!). All look good.
I see a couple of blockers to me moving forwards with DIY:
1) I want to remove/replace the pad guide plates. The torx screws holding them in are in terrible condition. One looks like a big blob of rust. See photos below.
2) To get any useful access to the torx screws, I think the two halves of the caliper need splitting.

Is there any issue with splitting the two halves? I'm assuming there are no internal seals considering there is the external hydraulic link pipe on LCR brembos.
Has anyone DIY removed the pad guide plates?
In the spirit of DIY/engineering/Mk1 ownership I wanted to see how far I could get with the rebuild, but snapped/rusted torx screws scares the crap out of me. Am I just better off paying ££££ and giving them to the professionals!!??
IMG_3288.jpg IMG_3289.jpg IMG_3290(1).jpg IMG_3291.jpg IMG_3292(1).jpg
 

iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
I know nothing about Brembos but looking at the torx bolts, the only one that would bother me is the one in the second to last photo.

That said, a whole heap of penetrating lube and a wire brush isn't going to do them any harm and I'm going to cross my fingers for you and hope it's just years of crud that are impacted in there. Maybe get a pick in there too to scrape out the edges so the bit can get seated securely.

I can't imagine those bolts are torqued particularly tight, so with penetrating lube and a clean I think they'll be OK. If all else fails, I've never tried the old cutting a slot in the head technique, but in the end, you only need to get them out...


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Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,231
1,078
Kent
Good to see you've got straight to work on these, Stuart.

Those little button head torx bolts are notoriously shite so I don't blame you for being tentative.

Plenty of Plus-Gas left to soak for a decent length of time.
Throughly scrape out the head and give it a bit of heat, it's not like you're going to ruin the paintwork or seals is it.

I believe BiggRed sell replacement bolts still.

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g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
437
333
Reading
Thanks for the advice. What about splitting the caliper in half? Any reason not to do it?? Splitting would allow some decent access to those torx screws.
 

g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
437
333
Reading
Update...
So I decided to tackle the dreaded torx screws. I started with the one that was most intact. It came out with no drama.
IMG_3304.jpg

I moved on to the next best one and swiftly rounded it. I stopped working and decided to worry for a couple of days. Today I got out the dremel. I stuck the caliper in my vice and started cutting a slot in the rounded torx. Hey presto! It worked and I got the torx out. I've never done work like this before, so pat on the back to me for overcoming my fears.
IMG_3306.jpg

With my new found confidence I tackled the other two torx bolts and got them out. A few pictures of my handy work below.

IMG_3310.jpg

IMG_3311.jpg

IMG_3312.jpg

And the tool that I had to use in the slots I cut:
IMG_3313.jpg


Thats one caliper done. I need to do the 4 torx screws in the other one, but I'm confident they wont be an issue now.
Chances are I'm going to pay the pros to blast and paint these bad boys, but its good to know I won't get charged extra for removing knackered torx screws.
Mk1 life!! Wouldn't be right without a bit of adversity!! :)
Buying a decent vice and a dremel in the past year has been a very good decision.
 

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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
1,783
1,172
Update...
So I decided to tackle the dreaded torx screws. I started with the one that was most intact. It came out with no drama.
View attachment 29642
I moved on to the next best one and swiftly rounded it. I stopped working and decided to worry for a couple of days. Today I got out the dremel. I stuck the caliper in my vice and started cutting a slot in the rounded torx. Hey presto! It worked and I got the torx out. I've never done work like this before, so pat on the back to me for overcoming my fears.
View attachment 29644
With my new found confidence I tackled the other two torx bolts and got them out. A few pictures of my handy work below.

View attachment 29646
View attachment 29647
View attachment 29648
And the tool that I had to use in the slots I cut:
View attachment 29649

Thats one caliper done. I need to do the 4 torx screws in the other one, but I'm confident they wont be an issue now.
Chances are I'm going to pay the pros to blast and paint these bad boys, but its good to know I won't get charged extra for removing knackered torx screws.
Mk1 life!! Wouldn't be right without a bit of adversity!! :)
Buying a decent vice and a dremel in the past year has been a very good decision.

Yes!


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Bear

Active Member
Jun 15, 2021
298
273
As a man who believes that DIY stands for Don't Involve Yourself, I think that's a brilliant bit of work mate. Big ups.
 
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g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
437
333
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All 8 torx screws extracted. Last one was a pig.
Think I'm going leave the link pipe in place and not split the two halves. As tempting as it is to have a go. I really dont wan't to snap the link pipe connections.
Will probably send them off for painting and new seals now.
 
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380bhpdaily

Active Member
May 26, 2020
1,257
573
I can recommend BCS I’ve used them for my AP racing off my cupra 6L and Brembos off the sti there work is good and I’ve never had a bad thing said about them when telling my friends to use them.



 
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Thai-wronghorse

Self proclaimed Cupra R addict & butcher!
Dec 3, 2015
2,231
1,078
Kent
BCS are the obvious choice but they're flipping expensive and you may have been lucky with them but I've read numerous horror stories about them over the years.

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380bhpdaily

Active Member
May 26, 2020
1,257
573
BCS are the obvious choice but they're flipping expensive and you may have been lucky with them but I've read numerous horror stories about them over the years.

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Oh god really forget that then lol I might take that post down then.
 

g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
437
333
Reading
I have contacted BCS and yes they are pricey. They are currently my first choice. The reason I have extracted the torx screws myself is I don't want to get told there is "extra engineering" work required. They have told me they don't remove link pipe or split the calipers unless required.
So it should be a simple case of blast 'em, paint 'em and chuck in new seals. What could possibly go wrong!!! 😂

The alternative is to find somewhere local, but its all hassle making sure the right pain colour is used, decals size, buying the seals from biggred etc....
 

380bhpdaily

Active Member
May 26, 2020
1,257
573
I have contacted BCS and yes they are pricey. They are currently my first choice. The reason I have extracted the torx screws myself is I don't want to get told there is "extra engineering" work required. They have told me they don't remove link pipe or split the calipers unless required.
So it should be a simple case of blast 'em, paint 'em and chuck in new seals. What could possibly go wrong!!! 😂

The alternative is to find somewhere local, but its all hassl making sure the right pain colour is used, decals size, buying the seals from biggred etc....
Are all the bleed nipples loose?
 

Nathan penney

Active member
Jul 8, 2017
723
835
Liverpool
Good job there Stu, will look amazing done properly.
I may be tempted to get a second set one day to have a go and do the same.
I have no mechanical skills whatsoever
( unless it’s model scale lol) so would be an interesting project to have a bash at.
 

g60stu

Full Member
Feb 9, 2003
437
333
Reading
Well, I kinda promised myself that I would write up my experience of getting the calipers refurbed and fitted. It’s been a few months and life is busy, but I got there in the end. As a DIYer I probably over thought it all and got a bit too OCD. But I learned a lot of stuff and that is why we tinker with our Mk1’s right?
Here we go (plenty of pictures)...

A few years back I had done the typical sanding and peeling off the old clear lacquer, followed by a new coat of VHT clear on my original set of calipers. They lasted a year or two before they started looking a bit tatty again.

Here is a picture of them, now off the car. They’re actually not that bad…. But they’re not that good either!
IMG_3840.jpg

IMG_3841.jpg

Back in Jan/Feb, I got a donor set from our favourite LCR breaker.

I had stripped the calipers down to a point and decided that I need to get them painted professionally, especially seeing how my rattle can lacquering had turned out after a couple of years.

I sent them off for a refurb and this is what came back.
IMG_3504.jpg
IMG_3505.jpg

The paint finish looks really good. I can’t complain, but here are the things I picked up on…
  • The paint is “Brembo red”. Its not quite the OEM (rosso??) red of the original calipers. It might just bug me a bit. I probably should have done more homework on paint colours. There really are 50 shades of red as well as grey!!
  • The carriers got painted red too. I was told by the company that they normally paint them black. Annoying, but no one sees them so its not an issue. I noticed that mating faces where the carrier would bolt to the hub were not masked. Maybe not an issue??
  • The fixing screws for the pad guide plates supplied were in my opinion of poor quality. They weren’t that tight, weren’t threadlocked and hex heads are a bit crap. I bought quality replacements from Addiction Motorsport with a torx head. Note the replacements were T30. Original OEM were T27. I also note that when I unscrewed the hex bolts, there was a whole load of blast material in each recess that I needed to pour/blow out. Not impressive stuff for a “pro” refurb.
    Bolts supplied with refurb:
    1651786927583.png

    Refurb bolt supplied on left, Addiction Motorsport bolt supplied on the right:
    IMG_3581.jpg
  • Some of the dust seals looked like they’re not seated perfectly. I’ve been assured that this is typical and they’ll settle with usage, but I do wonder whether genuine Brembo seals would fit better. The issue is only on the smaller pistons. Only time will tell if there is an issue. Before this refurb I had never contemplated that 4 pots have two different sized pistons. You learn something new every day!
    IMG_3519.jpg

    IMG_3520.jpg
  • I had to remove the pad guide plates and square them up a little in a vice. They were probably a bit bent from years of wear and corrosion under them had probably pushed them out a bit. There were also some “blobs” of paint that needed sanding down a little to make the pads fit nicely. Worst one shown below. After a very light sand, I fitted all the guide plates and the new pads fitted perfectly.
    IMG_3586.jpg

    Before plate bending and paint sanding:
    IMG_3525.jpg
  • Original Brembo bleed screw covers don’t fit with the supplied new bleed nipples. The refurb supplied some dust caps that are basic at best. I suspect I’d need to buy some genuine Brembo bleed nipples for it to be perfect. I might just do that.
    1651787485030.png
Braided lines
I had two sets to play with. One from Addiction Motorsport (HEL lines) and one from Badger 5.

The HEL lines have a more “OEM” looking connection to the hardpipe, but when I went to fit them I found they didn’t fit through the mount on the car chassis. Perfect timing for brake fluid to be oozing from the hardline!

Plan B – I swapped to the Badger 5 hoses. They fitted perfectly. Q - Why don’t Badger 5 supply their hoses with the funny rubber grommet thingy for mounting to the strut. I had to prise the rubber grommets off the HEL lines and put them onto the Badger 5 ones.

It was a bit of a squish getting those grommets into the strut mount.
IMG_3786.jpg

Pads
I bought a set of Brembo HP2000 pads. After approx. 100 miles, I’m finally starting to feel the bite. I need more time to really assess them, but they have to be better than the cheapo Brembo pads from Euro car parts.

Fitting and bleeding
I used an EZ bleed pressure bleeder and only bled the front calipers. All seems good so far. I was a bit apprehensive about bleeding the whole system. My brake fluid is quite old now so I’ll probably pay the pros to do a full bleed of the system soon anyhow.

The pressure bleeder hoses didn’t keep a tight seal. So I got out the blu tack?!? Even that didn’t hold all the pressure completely, but it was enough to bleed the front calipers.
IMG_3797.jpg

Summary
I have shiny new calipers, but the colour isn’t perfect (I’m being a bit fussy). The refurb was pricey and whilst the paint finish is excellent, I’d probably do the rebuild myself if I ever did it again, so I can lavish my time and care on it. I might consider getting my original set painted the OEM colour and do the another rebuild myself using genuine Brembo parts. But that’s a lot of cash that I could spend in other ways.

Here are a few pictures of the end product:
IMG_3809_small.jpg

IMG_3810_small.jpg
 

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Dazzalcr

Active Member
Aug 10, 2019
302
284
Lancashire
@g60stu they have done a nice job on the paint, to be fair I thought the calipers were brembo red(learning all the time) from the pics I see your frustration with the small details that ain't or what you expect especially as you said they won't be cheap so defo should not be having to do the jobs they being paid for, they look well behind the wheel 😉
 
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