Yeah, likely to be the auxillary belt. Probably just needs a bit more tension on it which is easy DIY thing to do. You have to slacken a couple of bolts holding the alternator and then lever the alternator a bit further away from the block (to get the tension in the belt) and then tighten the bolts back up. You only need to replace if it is frayed or obviously worn.
How could you tell if its worn?? Bearing in mind my car has just ticked over 100k and i dont think its been done (will have to check in pile of receipts!)
When you mean pull it away, do you mean toward the front of the car?? i.e towards the radiator.
The belt should be visible - and you can tell if it is worn - i.e. are the edges frayed, are there any holes in the belt etc. I replaced my alternator belt a couple of weeks ago. It was badly frayed at the edges plus had a couple of holes in it - so it was pretty obvious it was knackered. That was at 106k - but had more to do with a couple of visits to a gravel trap at Donnington Park a few weekends ago.
I can only talk about the 2.0 8v, but I'm assuming that the setup on the 1.4 will be similar. The alternator will be bolted onto the front of the engine block, between it and the radiator. There should be two bolts - one at the top of the alternator, visible from above. This one will be the pivot point. There will then be another bolt underneath the alternator. That will go through an oval shaped hole in the alternator - i.e. when you loosen the bolt, the alternator should swing backwards down towards the engine block.
To get some more tension in the belt, you need to lever the alternator towards the radiator/ front of the car. You should see that it has moved a bit as when you do the bolt up on the oval hole, it will bolt down in a different place.
If you are concerned that the belt might be worn then you can get a new one from GSF for £7.50 from memory. To fit, you just loosen the alternator as described but remove the lower bolt, so that it rests back on the block so there is no tension on the belt. Then you can take the old belt off, fit the new one, and then lever the alternator out towards the radiator/front of car again to put the tension back in the belt, refit the bolt and do both of them up.
Hope that helps.
I can only talk about the 2.0 8v, but I'm assuming that the setup on the 1.4 will be similar. The alternator will be bolted onto the front of the engine block, between it and the radiator. There should be two bolts - one at the top of the alternator, visible from above. This one will be the pivot point. There will then be another bolt underneath the alternator. That will go through an oval shaped hole in the alternator - i.e. when you loosen the bolt, the alternator should swing backwards down towards the engine block.
To get some more tension in the belt, you need to lever the alternator towards the radiator/ front of the car. You should see that it has moved a bit as when you do the bolt up on the oval hole, it will bolt down in a different place.
If you are concerned that the belt might be worn then you can get a new one from GSF for £7.50 from memory. To fit, you just loosen the alternator as described but remove the lower bolt, so that it rests back on the block so there is no tension on the belt. Then you can take the old belt off, fit the new one, and then lever the alternator out towards the radiator/front of car again to put the tension back in the belt, refit the bolt and do both of them up.
Hope that helps.
If you've got an AEX engine then the tension is supplied by a roller that's mounted on a sprung arm. If this is the case then you can't adjust the tension as far as I know. Might be worth gettting your hands on a Haynes and having a quick read 
Cheers mate that is a help. My belt is alright as it isnt frayed at the edges or doesnt have any holes in it or anything. I might just get a new one and get it put on in in february when my car goes in for a big service. Getting the usual done plus going to get the gearbox oil changed and a few other little things.
If you've got an AEX engine then the tension is supplied by a roller that's mounted on a sprung arm. If this is the case then you can't adjust the tension as far as I know. Might be worth gettting your hands on a Haynes and having a quick read
My engine is an APQ, ive got a Haynes so i might have a quick 'bedtime'
read later on!Similar threads
