2016 Ibiza 1.0 (95hp) 3 cyl gearbox reliability/problems?

[Crossthreaded]

Hello everyone. Just joined today after lurking around for some time deciding which forum to join. As you can see your's impressed me most.

My question concerns my 2016 (bought new) Ibiza ST 1.0 litre (95hp - I think?) 3 cylinder turbo petrol Ibiza ecomotive. She's just out of warranty and I'm beginning to get "intimate" with her. To the extent that we have now named her "Twinkle" or "twink" - Sad isn't it? Anyway, I'm retired from a life in and around the motor trade and do all my own maintenance. I love pretty much every thing about the car (now with around 15,000 miles behind us) - Well ok, I could criticise the turbo lag from very low revs, but that would be nitpicking.

I do have one little nagging worry though. The gearbox, from new, has had this feeling of "backlash" about it. By this I mean specifically it sounds like a box with a bit too much final drive backlash in the crown wheel/pinion mesh. The box itself - by which I mean all gears - runs quietly with no whines etc although it is a bit "rattly" at tickover (due to 3 cylinder engine and modern "thin" gear oil?) but when changing gear and taking up the drive you often hear (and feel slightly) a subdued clunk (difficult to describe in words) just as if there is too much play between the pinion and crownwheel teeth. There is no whine whilst driving. I've raised it at each of the 3 services (last one just over a month ago so now out of warranty) and each time the service reception has said "nothing to worry about" big dealer - Arnold Clark (I can hear the groans of sympathy as I'm typing). We have an excellent VAG indy up here in Edinburgh (AVW) with whom I've been friendly for a while - having had Seat's and Skoda's in the family for many years - and I'm going to pop along and have a chat with them soon. Right now though I'm down near Salisbury at my Daughter's home and then going across to North Devon for a week with my Mrs's sister before returning to Edinburgh. So a lot of miles to do and the gearbox has been playing on my mind just as I'm dropping off to sleep at night - I suffer from being one of the worlds great worriers!

Anyone know anything about these boxes (5 speed) are there any known issues? I remember, nervously, The problem with the crownwheel rivets shearing and milling their way through the diff housing a few years ago (haven't heard of one lately though). This 'box is a much more lightweight component compared to the one on my old 1.9tdi (VE) Cordoba Vario. She went on for 19 years without a serious failure of anything.

Well, that was a bit of a long post folks? I'll try not to ramble so much in future.

 

[Crossthreaded]

Now I'm really puzzled. I see this thread of mine has the little binoculars sign on it (something to do with "watched") I've no idea what this is all about, anyone who can explain?

 

[camelspyyder]

It means its a thread you have contributed or subscribed to I think.

 

[camelspyyder]

A fair few 1.0 TSI 6 speed users, including myself, have complained of having 1 baulky gear but we're not all having trouble with the same cog. Mine was really baulking going in to 4th when new but after 7000 miles it's happening far less often. My previous 1.2 6 speed was completely faultless.

 

[Crossthreaded]

It means its a thread you have contributed or subscribed to I think.

Thanks for that. I've just spent some time exploring the site and although there is lots I don't know yet I've discovered this "watched" binocular sign thingy enables you to quickly find threads you are interested in. You can also "unwatch" things. Haven't really got the hang of this yet but I think I'm getting there.

 

[Crossthreaded]

A fair few 1.0 TSI 6 speed users, including myself, have complained of having 1 baulky gear but we're not all having trouble with the same cog. Mine was really baulking going in to 4th when new but after 7000 miles it's happening far less often. My previous 1.2 6 speed was completely faultless.

My gear changes are all smooth as silk as is the clutch action. No gear crashing, even when selecting reverse. Just this quite strange "loose" effect - loose doesn't actually describe it very well - which, by the way, hasn't changed in any way since she was new. My better half, who would rather drive her Panda if given the choice, says she's no idea what I'm talking about and doesn't notice anything! But I can just see my old college instructor - long dead now - standing with his hands on his hips saying "unacceptable backlash sonny boy - take it to pieces and do it again, properly this time!"

Bet it would go away with some nice thick gear oil instead of the water thin stuff they use these days, but I know that would create a whole shed load of other problems. I think I may do a gearbox oil change when I get home so I can have a good look see if there is any debris in the oil.

 

[RUM4MO]

I think that a lot of modern gearboxes from VW Group can be said to have a bit of backlash, probably a family thing as quite a few of these gearboxes are roughly the same.

AVW, I only found out about them within the past year or so, I used them to get "component protection" removed when I replaced the non DAB radio in my S4 for a used DAB one, and then directed my daughter to them for her 1.4 16V Ibiza cambelt etc change last month. Prior to that I used to go all the way up to Dysart to Star Performance for VW Group 1.4 16V cambelt changes, my wife has a 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS so it will be due a cambelt change next year - and probably at AVW.

You mentioned crown wheel rivets shearing in the dark past, was that not a Peugeot designed gearbox - VW Group used it and so did Leyland, but I think that when Leyland built them under license, they used a more modern method of keeping the crown wheel to the diff, and that was to use structural adhesive - I think that caused a bit of trouble for Leyland cars owners with just a few dowels and glue to keep it together!

Enjoy your trip, I'll need to revisit Dorset, Devon, Cornwall and Somerset soon - it is a bit far from Central Scotland - especially the far end of Cornwall, but worth it!

Edit:- I would normally echo your feeling wrt Uncle Arnie's motoring emporiums, but, we had trouble with my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza 1.4 16V SC, it was draining its battery when left for a few days, and that was an obscure but known problem with some of these cars, I handed it into Western SEAT, they found nothing even when I suggested it might be a BCM with a S/W issue, on the first visit they replaced the steering module under the steering wheel - the one that controls the foglight switching at low speeds, I said that I did not think that was the problem, but what did I know, when I heard that they were shutting down, I handed it back in - no fault found! It continued to drain its battery and as my older daughter, who owned that car, was coming home for Christmas from teaching in KL, I shuffled along to Uncle Arnie's SEAT dealership and explained what the problem was, the service receptionist said that they had a Polo of the same age in and eventually we discovered that it was the BCM S/W and that VW directed them to a S/W patch, and that sorted that car out, so I booked the car in and the master tech followed the same process, was eventually directed to a BCM S/W patch by SEAT and sorted that car out - annoyingly I had been avoiding them like the plague and using Western SEAT instead - and that did not work out very well, so some Uncle Arnie master techs know their stuff!

Edit:- I think that I've beaten your posting word count to pulp there?

 

[Crossthreaded]

Thanks RUM4MO. It occurs to me that perhaps I should have a chat with my neighbour too and see if they have a 5 or 6 speed in their Fabia. If it's a 5 speed perhaps I could have a wee outing in it - wouldn't need to drive - and see if it sounds the same.

AVW? great people! But I should admit to having a link in that Alan married my good friend's daughter. As I understand it both Alan and Keith are ex "uncle" Arnie Audi master techs (I think). They sorted out a few things I couldn't when my older boy had the 1.6 CR Fabia Scout - now replaced by a Kia Rio. I hold them in high regard and won't hesitate to throw the Ibiza at them if something unexpected comes up.

We took the grandchildren out for the day today - main reason why we're down here just now - and in between the visits to the trampolining centre and ice cream shop we covered quite a few miles in the Ibiza. She performed absolutely fine and I've decided to stop worrying about this gearbox and just enjoy the holiday. We are all, Self, Mrs self, Daughter & Husband with two grandchildren going down to Mrs self's sister in north Devon on Thursday for Easter. Not all in the Ibiza, I hasten to add! I genuinely feel sure there's going to be no problems. You mention Central Scotland in your post. Might I ask, just approximately, where you are. We are North Edinburgh roughly Leith area.

I'm feeling a little mean about my original "Arnie" post and feel a little expansion would be good. It can be divided into two distinct experiences. Firstly sales - Poor is probably the best I can manage and I'll go no further! Technical including workshops - Really not bad at all. The services do seem to have been done satisfactorily and it was nice to see the video they send you, not so much for the simple technical features the techie was pointing out, as to be able to observe, for instance, that the ramp rubber pads were in good condition and positioned correctly (ie not crushing the sill seams!). It was a pity that she came back after the second service with a big screwdriver score mark across the top of her air filter housing but I suppose it proves they probably had it off to do the filter? What was impressive was that just after she turned 2 years old the turbo waste gate actuator seized up on the waste gate spindle putting her into "limp" SEAT Assist attended quickly and the car was taken to the Seafield branch (where it was being serviced anyway). There was no arguing, Turbo fault diagnosed within a day - not repairable and new turbo ordered up. Had to wait a couple of days for it to be delivered and car back on the road in under a week at no cost to me. As you would expect under warranty but nice it all went as it should. So, as you say, they do seem to have some techs who know what they are doing - but some serious work needs to be done with the sales boys. Funnily enough I nearly bought from Western - They gave me a good test drive, Arnie didn't even have a demo with the engine I wanted - but in the end bought through a third party who arranged a "special deal" for me.

By the way this turbo problem seems to be a bit of a thing and the latest version has a modified waste gate linkage. It's easy enough to either see with the aid of a mirror or feel with your fingers (on a cold engine please!). Anyone with further interest in this I could try to take a picture of mine when I get home and post it. The problem with the older design of link seizing up seemed to be well known to both the breakdown rescue chap and the garage reception staff. - AVW told me they've done a few too - I had to wait for some time when I went to pick her up and took the opportunity to pop the bonnet on an Arona which had the same engine in it, slid my hand down the back of the engine and had a feel of the waste gate linkage - same as the modified version just fitted to mine!

Kind regards

 

[RUM4MO]

I'm surprised/annoyed that the waste gate linkage is still an issue, I had hoped that that issue had vanished when the 1.2TSI 8V was replaced by the 1.2TSI 16V, are at least I had hoped that VW Group had started to fit a waste gate that could be replaced without the need for turbo removal and bench testing to set the new waste gate - up I think, is why these turbos get replaced probably with a refurbished exchange unit when they fail for any reason. I do admit to sticking my hand in around the waste gate area - and find that with a cold engine if you moved the linkage, it stayed in that new position, but doing that made no difference to how the car next started and run!

When my older daughter first went car shopping, wife, older daughter and I ended up in Citroen Seafield - I can't say why, anyway the Irish sales guy was getting very angry with us for asking questions and wanted my daughter to come back after she had finished work the next day - that was not going to happen, so for me that outing passed an hour or so arguing with a very aggressive car sales guy, it was only one of their used Ibizas that we were trying to look at test drive, but he knew that we must buy a new small Citroen, I found that experience a bit entertaining having heard horrific stories about Uncle Arnie's car emporiums through West. Did you ever look on the now closed down website "A C sucks" it used the dealerships full name - it was very entertaining and alarming, but Arnie's (legal) boys came for it and closed it down.

I live outside Penicuik, ie out in the sticks!

Going back to what is probably called "driveline shunt" - I think that many people feel that it is mainly down to very bad integration of engine torque characteristics+gearbox ratios+clutch+mounting which I think is worse on the 1.0TSI range than it was on the 1.2TSI - sometimes it is annoying on the 1.2TSI and then you seem to be able to work round it and it does not exist. This gets reported across all the VW Group motoring forums at some time or other.

 

[Crossthreaded]

I'm surprised/annoyed that the waste gate linkage is still an issue, I had hoped that that issue had vanished when the 1.2TSI 8V was replaced by the 1.2TSI 16V.

I think what happened to mine is different. I steered well clear of the chain cam engines after hearing of so many disaster stories so am not very familiar with them but I believe one of the criticisms was that the actuator arm used to rattle against the waste gate spindle? (turbo on front of engine) Perhaps they were trying to ensure this didn't happen with the new EA211 engine (turbo on rear) because what happened to mine was that the end of the actuator arm seized solid to the waste gate spindle arm. The Seat Assist technician knew what it was from my description of how it had failed before he even opened the bonnet! The reception desk at A.C. said to the technician "Another one? hope you haven't wiped the codes like our friends with the yellow vans do?" Which filled me with dread that I'd bought a real lemon. The junction between the end of the actuator arm and the waste gate spindle arm is a small solid rectangular metal block with a hole through it's middle through which the spindle on the end of the actuator arm is fixed and retained by a clip so it can swivel in operation. I asked the receptionist to keep the old turbo as I would like to understand exactly what had gone wrong with it. - I couldn't understand why they just weren't fitting a new actuator and arm? (although I was delighted to be receiving around 1.5 grand's worth of turbo for free!). Well it turns out that this block seizes so solidly to the arm that it can't be removed! I found that difficult to believe having renewed a number of turbo actuators in my time but on seeing it I was completely convinced. Someone had tried very hard to get it off and turned the arm into something rather more resembling a piece of modern sculpture! I asked if I could keep it but was told I couldn't as it was the subject of a warranty claim - fair enough. If you are looking at an older one of these with a view to buying it's quite easy to identify. The old actuator type arm is bright metal (zinc/chrome or similar) with the square block on the end that pivots on the waste gate arm. The new one is black with a circular (kind of spherical - a wee bit like a cheap rose joint, but not quite, if you see what I mean? you would not mistake it when you see it) end where it pivots on the waste gate arm. I spoke with the AVW lads next time I was going by (my youngest boy lives in Newtongrange so we're out that way a lot babysitting and my brother is in Gala so we're down the A7, past Alan/Keith's front door, quite a bit but never really in your direction) and they confirmed they've done a number of these and it's not uncommon to find you can't get the arm off so have to replace the whole turbo! Strewth! Apart from that though, at that time (about a year ago) they weren't finding any other particular nasties to warn me against.

I see you said you moved the linkage with your hand? I have done this with pneumatically powered actuators but the one on my new engine is electrically driven and I have no experience with this type - I would be reluctant to manually force one in case I damaged the actuator or upset it's reference/resting position?

Main dealer car sales is not a world I often find myself in as I usually buy older cars. The Ibiza is the first new car I've bought since I was in my 20's so I'm usually buying from a smaller dealer or privately and, being older vehicles, have all the model info at my fingertips. This was not the case with the Ibiza as it's engine in particular, was so new. I would like to be able to say that my experience of sales staff previously mentioned was confined to that instance but we endured a not dissimilar experience when looking to source a Kia for my older boy's wife. Our local branch is duelled with the Fiat brand and I'm quite familiar with their parts department who are very helpful so I'm surprised to find this. Having tried car sales briefly when I was much younger (before rapidly returning to the sanity of workshops) I would guess the sales boys are under a lot of pressure to perform which, in my experience, often brings out the worst in people.

I really like your term "driveline shunt" probably describes what I'm experiencing much more accurately than "backlash". So It sounds as if what I'm picking up on is a known and probably harmless feature of these smaller 'boxes? It'll be a while before we're home but I feel a call on AVW to ask their opinion might just finally put my (not now very troubled) mind at rest. I do find I can minimize it by never allowing the drive to be taken up on a trailing throttle but it's a little difficult to judge with the turbo which tends to be either lagging or boosting too enthusiastically to exactly judge the revs like you could on a normally aspirated engine.

PS Oh dear! Look at this for a posting word count!

 

[Braga]

Bought my car with 0 KM
My car also sometimes the first gear doesn’t enter or then it enters in 2 steps, from the first day.
I went to SEAT several times until they thought they should change the clutch kit, the problem persists, the car is still under warranty and they say they can open the gear box but if no problem is found I have to support the costs.

Any solution for the problem?

Thanks!

 

[Crossthreaded]

Bought my car with 0 KM
My car also sometimes the first gear doesn’t enter or then it enters in 2 steps, from the first day.
I went to SEAT several times until they thought they should change the clutch kit, the problem persists, the car is still under warranty and they say they can open the gear box but if no problem is found I have to support the costs.

Any solution for the problem?

Thanks!

Thanks for the video, very helpful, First really obvious question is whether it's due to a dragging clutch? If the clutch is not fully freeing up the driven plate when the pedal is pushed down (you are pushing the pedal to the floor, aren't you?) the synchros will resist engagement and give a somewhat similar result to what I see in your video. To test this stop the engine and try engaging the gear without the engine running. If it engages nicely, just in case it's something a little obscure, try starting the engine again and see if it'll engage with the engine running. then try again with the engine stopped. Try this a few times and if it's difficult to engage with the engine running but easy with the engine stopped there is a very good chance it's a clutch related problem. If you get this result the hydraulics need to be carefully checked before thinking about taking the gearbox out. I notice mine has an exterior mounted slave so should be quite easy to deal with compared to those fiendish concentric jobs which need the 'box removed to get at - what a silly idea?

If there is no difference between selection with the engine running and the engine stopped then the next thing I'd be trying is having a good close look at the operating cables for any obvious defects. Get someone to operate the gearchange and take a look at all the joints and cable anchorages etc. If it's all looking good, try resetting the adjustment on the shifter cables. The Haynes manual (6451) gives a full description how to do it. There are some locking pins on the gearbox levers on the top of the 'box and a couple of holes on the gearlever (you have to take the gaiter off to see it) which have to line up (a drill does just fine) and a locking collar on each cable. Basically you free up the cables by releasing the locking collars and lock up the gearbox levers and the gearlever before then, with everything locked up with the pins/drill, relocking the cable collars. It's not really very difficult to do, just takes a wee bit of thinking about the first time you try it.

If none of this sorts things out then I think it's likely to be a problem inside the box (fingers crossed for you that it's not) But I have to say all this is just guessing as i can't actually sit in the car and do the checking out myself. I have the same 5 speed in my 2016 95hp 3 cylinder ST and it's changes are silky smooth. The box has always been a bit "rattly" from new - like as if there's too much backlash on the teeth) but my local VW/Audi independent specialist tells me they all tend to be like this. Mine is approaching 25,000 miles and sounds the same now as when it was new.

Only after trying this would I be thinking about taking the 'box out

PS You bought the car with 0Km on it? So the car was bought new? If so and it's still under warranty as you say in your post, it's absolutely ridiculous for the dealer to be saying you have to pay for any repair of this nature. Perhaps if you had burned out the clutch by holding it on a steep hill slipping the clutch for a long time they might have a case to argue, but poor gear selection on a new car is completely unacceptable! - how many miles do you have on it? - It's up to them to fix it and if they decide they can only successfully diagnose this by taking the box out and stripping it down then that's their decision. You're not telling them to take the 'box out it's them saying they can't sort it without doing this.

Personally, if it was me, I'd be tempted to seek out another main dealer and ask them to help. The one you are going to for this sounds to me like a load of trouble and who knows what they might add to the bill before you get the car back. Of course it could be that they just don't want to get involved and are trying to "frighten" you off so you will go elsewhere? Whatever, doesn't sound like you are going to have a "happy" relationship with them. My Ibiza suffered the seized up wastegate problem which afflicted the earlier version of turbo at about 2 years old with around 14,000 miles on the clock. there was no argument, a brand new upgraded turbo was supplied and fitted, under warranty, at no cost to me. A job which would probably be costed around the £2,000 mark I would guess.

 

[Braga]

Thanks for the video, very helpful, First really obvious question is whether it's due to a dragging clutch? If the clutch is not fully freeing up the driven plate when the pedal is pushed down (you are pushing the pedal to the floor, aren't you?) the synchros will resist engagement and give a somewhat similar result to what I see in your video. To test this stop the engine and try engaging the gear without the engine running. If it engages nicely, just in case it's something a little obscure, try starting the engine again and see if it'll engage with the engine running. then try again with the engine stopped. Try this a few times and if it's difficult to engage with the engine running but easy with the engine stopped there is a very good chance it's a clutch related problem. If you get this result the hydraulics need to be carefully checked before thinking about taking the gearbox out. I notice mine has an exterior mounted slave so should be quite easy to deal with compared to those fiendish concentric jobs which need the 'box removed to get at - what a silly idea?

If there is no difference between selection with the engine running and the engine stopped then the next thing I'd be trying is having a good close look at the operating cables for any obvious defects. Get someone to operate the gearchange and take a look at all the joints and cable anchorages etc. If it's all looking good, try resetting the adjustment on the shifter cables. The Haynes manual (6451) gives a full description how to do it. There are some locking pins on the gearbox levers on the top of the 'box and a couple of holes on the gearlever (you have to take the gaiter off to see it) which have to line up (a drill does just fine) and a locking collar on each cable. Basically you free up the cables by releasing the locking collars and lock up the gearbox levers and the gearlever before then, with everything locked up with the pins/drill, relocking the cable collars. It's not really very difficult to do, just takes a wee bit of thinking about the first time you try it.

If none of this sorts things out then I think it's likely to be a problem inside the box (fingers crossed for you that it's not) But I have to say all this is just guessing as i can't actually sit in the car and do the checking out myself. I have the same 5 speed in my 2016 95hp 3 cylinder ST and it's changes are silky smooth. The box has always been a bit "rattly" from new - like as if there's too much backlash on the teeth) but my local VW/Audi independent specialist tells me they all tend to be like this. Mine is approaching 25,000 miles and sounds the same now as when it was new.

Only after trying this would I be thinking about taking the 'box out

Thanks!
Yes the Clutch is full press down!
When i go to SEAT official workshop they make the ajust on the shifter cables and the problem continues.
And more they trying to convence me that this is normal in this cars...

 

[Crossthreaded]

Thanks!
Yes the Clutch is full press down!
When i go to SEAT official workshop they make the ajust on the shifter cables and the problem continues.
And more they trying to convence me that this is normal in this cars...

I can only go by what I see on your video but it doesn't look at all right to me - mine is slick and smooth in operation, just as I would expect it to be.

There are a few ideas which you might like to consider.
1. Are you well known in the showroom? If you don't think you would be recognized then pretend to be a customer thinking of buying the model you have and ask for a short test drive. Salesmen are usually "hungry" animals and are likely to have you in the driving seat before you know what's happening. Then you can try out what the demonstrator car's gearchange feels like ( be very sure you are comparing like for like - same engine/gearbox combination as yours). Then, of course, you can approach the workshop and ask why their demo car is perfect and yours is not?
2. If you don't think you'll get away with this find your next nearest dealership and try one out with them. You can always say you don't like the turbo lag or stiff suspension or extra firm seats or colour of the tyres or "whatever" and just walk away at the end of the drive. Have no pity on salesmen, they'll take as much money from you as they can without any pity for you, I know, I sold cars for nearly 5 years when I was young! Didn't like it though and went back to spannering!
3. Find another factory dealership and ask them to asses it. You don't have to go back to the selling dealer for warranty work.
4. Find a local independent VAG workshop and ask their advice. As an independent they will not be able to honour a warranty claim but will certainly be able to tell you what is most likely to be wrong. You should make it very clear you are only wanting them to asses the problem, not to start taking bits of the 'box to pieces. I'd be surprised if the cost would be any more than an hour's labour.
5. Find a local gearbox specialist and ask them to asses your problem. Here in Scotland/UK most will give a verbal report immediately at minimal or no cost, only charging if you want a written estimate.

 

[Braga]

Thanks for the video, very helpful, First really obvious question is whether it's due to a dragging clutch? If the clutch is not fully freeing up the driven plate when the pedal is pushed down (you are pushing the pedal to the floor, aren't you?) the synchros will resist engagement and give a somewhat similar result to what I see in your video. To test this stop the engine and try engaging the gear without the engine running. If it engages nicely, just in case it's something a little obscure, try starting the engine again and see if it'll engage with the engine running. then try again with the engine stopped. Try this a few times and if it's difficult to engage with the engine running but easy with the engine stopped there is a very good chance it's a clutch related problem. If you get this result the hydraulics need to be carefully checked before thinking about taking the gearbox out. I notice mine has an exterior mounted slave so should be quite easy to deal with compared to those fiendish concentric jobs which need the 'box removed to get at - what a silly idea?

If there is no difference between selection with the engine running and the engine stopped then the next thing I'd be trying is having a good close look at the operating cables for any obvious defects. Get someone to operate the gearchange and take a look at all the joints and cable anchorages etc. If it's all looking good, try resetting the adjustment on the shifter cables. The Haynes manual (6451) gives a full description how to do it. There are some locking pins on the gearbox levers on the top of the 'box and a couple of holes on the gearlever (you have to take the gaiter off to see it) which have to line up (a drill does just fine) and a locking collar on each cable. Basically you free up the cables by releasing the locking collars and lock up the gearbox levers and the gearlever before then, with everything locked up with the pins/drill, relocking the cable collars. It's not really very difficult to do, just takes a wee bit of thinking about the first time you try it.

If none of this sorts things out then I think it's likely to be a problem inside the box (fingers crossed for you that it's not) But I have to say all this is just guessing as i can't actually sit in the car and do the checking out myself. I have the same 5 speed in my 2016 95hp 3 cylinder ST and it's changes are silky smooth. The box has always been a bit "rattly" from new - like as if there's too much backlash on the teeth) but my local VW/Audi independent specialist tells me they all tend to be like this. Mine is approaching 25,000 miles and sounds the same now as when it was new.

Only after trying this would I be thinking about taking the 'box out

PS You bought the car with 0Km on it? So the car was bought new? If so and it's still under warranty as you say in your post, it's absolutely ridiculous for the dealer to be saying you have to pay for any repair of this nature. Perhaps if you had burned out the clutch by holding it on a steep hill slipping the clutch for a long time they might have a case to argue, but poor gear selection on a new car is completely unacceptable! - how many miles do you have on it? - It's up to them to fix it and if they decide they can only successfully diagnose this by taking the box out and stripping it down then that's their decision. You're not telling them to take the 'box out it's them saying they can't sort it without doing this.

Personally, if it was me, I'd be tempted to seek out another main dealer and ask them to help. The one you are going to for this sounds to me like a load of trouble and who knows what they might add to the bill before you get the car back. Of course it could be that they just don't want to get involved and are trying to "frighten" you off so you will go elsewhere? Whatever, doesn't sound like you are going to have a "happy" relationship with them. My Ibiza suffered the seized up wastegate problem which afflicted the earlier version of turbo at about 2 years old with around 14,000 miles on the clock. there was no argument, a brand new upgraded turbo was supplied and fitted, under warranty, at no cost to me. A job which would probably be costed around the £2,000 mark I would guess.

I already try another car with the same gearbox and it is more smoth!
Next week i will have some news about that!

 

[Crossthreaded]

I already try another car with the same gearbox and it is more smoth!
Next week i will have some news about that!

Can't wait. Please do keep us up to date with how this turns out.

 

[Big Vinny]

If anyone has experience of a 3 cylinder 1.0 MPI Mi/Citigo/Up with more than about 15000 miles on it you will know how bad the clutch and gearboxes are. The engine is the same block as the 3 cylinder 1.0 unit in the Ibiza and the non turbo 1.0 MPI I reckon must be very similar so the gearbox is likely to be similar, and also uses the low viscosity transmission oil. There is commonality wth 1.0 Ibiza's.

W got rid of our Citigo because the clutch release bearing rattle was so bad it was very noticeable in the car and the gearshift on cold mornings was very difficult to get into first and reverse. These problems are well documented on other forums.

 

[Crossthreaded]

Although my Ibiza drives well out on the open road and returns some pretty impressive fuel consumption figures with nil road tax and cheap insurance, I'm sorry to have to say there is just so much other "stuff" about the car I don't like that I think this is likely to be my last SEAT. I'm really sad to be saying this because we've had a number of older SEAT and Skoda branded vehicles in the family and I've found them to be sensibly engineered and relatively easy to maintain and repair. These new small turboed petrol engines are just too "tweeky" for me. Far too many plastic components, multiple water pumps and thermostats, drivability issues around the turbo lag when in town - absolutely fine out on the open road though - and the looming possibility of an expensive clean up being needed on the inlet tracts due to carbon fouling. then there's the harsh "crashy" suspension, a gearbox which sounds as if it was assembled by a first year apprentice, what I consider to be a "silly and cheap" design of front caliper slider pin, and that's enough for now. With her due a cam belt change this spring and stuff like an aircon service in addition to her normal service (AVW will be doing the belt and aircon but I'm doing my own services now) I've been agonizing as to whether the time has come to go our different ways. Trouble is, having bought her new, I'm going to take quite a hit financially if I do this. I won't be buying a brand new car again though I'll be going back to my usual practice of buying at 18 months to 2 years old and if I do "go for it" it's very likely to be a normally aspirated Honda. By the time I've finished with that one I'll either be so old I'll have been banned from driving or it'll be an electric vehicle.

One unfortunate side effect is going to be that my VAG-COM is going to become redundant as my Ibiza is now the last VAG product in the "family fleet" (although I suppose I can still use the embedded Generic OBD reader.) I don't think there is anything as comprehensive available for the Honda, although I'll be giving Grant at Gendan a ring about the options if I do buy the Honda.

 

[Trundle]

Hello everyone. Just joined today after lurking around for some time deciding which forum to join. As you can see your's impressed me most.

My question concerns my 2016 (bought new) Ibiza ST 1.0 litre (95hp - I think?) 3 cylinder turbo petrol Ibiza ecomotive. She's just out of warranty and I'm beginning to get "intimate" with her. To the extent that we have now named her "Twinkle" or "twink" - Sad isn't it? Anyway, I'm retired from a life in and around the motor trade and do all my own maintenance. I love pretty much every thing about the car (now with around 15,000 miles behind us) - Well ok, I could criticise the turbo lag from very low revs, but that would be nitpicking.

I do have one little nagging worry though. The gearbox, from new, has had this feeling of "backlash" about it. By this I mean specifically it sounds like a box with a bit too much final drive backlash in the crown wheel/pinion mesh. The box itself - by which I mean all gears - runs quietly with no whines etc although it is a bit "rattly" at tickover (due to 3 cylinder engine and modern "thin" gear oil?) but when changing gear and taking up the drive you often hear (and feel slightly) a subdued clunk (difficult to describe in words) just as if there is too much play between the pinion and crownwheel teeth. There is no whine whilst driving. I've raised it at each of the 3 services (last one just over a month ago so now out of warranty) and each time the service reception has said "nothing to worry about" big dealer - Arnold Clark (I can hear the groans of sympathy as I'm typing). We have an excellent VAG indy up here in Edinburgh (AVW) with whom I've been friendly for a while - having had Seat's and Skoda's in the family for many years - and I'm going to pop along and have a chat with them soon. Right now though I'm down near Salisbury at my Daughter's home and then going across to North Devon for a week with my Mrs's sister before returning to Edinburgh. So a lot of miles to do and the gearbox has been playing on my mind just as I'm dropping off to sleep at night - I suffer from being one of the worlds great worriers!

Anyone know anything about these boxes (5 speed) are there any known issues? I remember, nervously, The problem with the crownwheel rivets shearing and milling their way through the diff housing a few years ago (haven't heard of one lately though). This 'box is a much more lightweight component compared to the one on my old 1.9tdi (VE) Cordoba Vario. She went on for 19 years without a serious failure of anything.

Well, that was a bit of a long post folks? I'll try not to ramble so much in future.

Hi Crossthreaded

I've been searching for info. re. turbo actuator problems on VW group 1.0 TSI engines and came across your posts. My mother's 2018 VW UP has recently had this issue, it's done under 4k miles, but unfortunately is a few months out of warranty so we've only been offered the cost of the parts to date. I'm trying to establish when VW would first have become aware that this was an issue with this particular 1 litre engine and wanted to ask you when you had the issue with your 1 litre Ibiza please?

 

[Crossthreaded]

Hi Crossthreaded

I've been searching for info. re. turbo actuator problems on VW group 1.0 TSI engines and came across your posts. My mother's 2018 VW UP has recently had this issue, it's done under 4k miles, but unfortunately is a few months out of warranty so we've only been offered the cost of the parts to date. I'm trying to establish when VW would first have become aware that this was an issue with this particular 1 litre engine and wanted to ask you when you had the issue with your 1 litre Ibiza please?

Hi Trundle. I've just been sifting through my paperwork file and have found both the breakdown report and the garage zero cost invoice. (luckily mine was still in warranty - first reg March 2016).

The breakdown report is dated 31/07/18 and states - "confirmed fault. sporadic fault with charge pressure actuator".

The garage invoice is dated 08/08/2018 and states - "checked and confirmed EML light on carried out diagnostics to vehicle and found faults in the pressure actuator, could not remove actuator as seized so required turbo removed and replaced turbo".

This problem with the actuator on the earlier design of linkage being impossible to remove due to being seized, thus requiring the whole turbo to be replaced, whilst not inevitable, seems to be not uncommon and has been mentioned to me by another workshop who told me they've done a number of them. It would seem to be most common on cars which are not driven every day. Ours failed the day after we returned from a fortnight's holiday where the car had stood outside without being moved for all that time. It seems to be a bit of a lottery as to whether you end up having this problem or not.

Hope that helps? Of course as you're out of warranty they don't need to reimburse you but it does seem a bit hard as the car is such low mileage and only just out of warranty. - ironically if the mileage was higher failure would seem to be less likely! - There's quite a bit of labour involved but the turbo itself is quite a large part of the cost so if the actual turbo - and not just the wastegate actuator - needs to be replaced it's probably around half the cost being covered by them? Could be worse I suppose? they could just cut you loose altogether.

Anyway, good luck with it all. Do let us know how you get on. One thing which may be worth exploring is whether they will supply the parts for third party fitment. I know our local VAG independent would do this job and his labour rates are considerably less than the main dealer so a considerable saving could be made?

PS. I was just thinking about your 2018 car. It must have been somewhere around then that the later design of actuator linkage became the factory fit? I'd be especially interested to know if it's a seized actuator linkage which is at the root of your problem? and if so whether you have the later type linkage as it seems to have sorted mine out completely. - Earlier linkage had very squared off "blocky" design of bearing where it connects to the wastegate lever pivot. the later design looks much more like a Rose Joint ie, rather spherical overall. On mine the early linkage was made from bright metal and the replacement was black.