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Hi there. If i am honest there isn't alot wrong with these cars but the common things to check are...
- Front & back footwells for dampness. If they are, the sealant behind the door cards has perished and needs redoing or the pollen filter hasn't been fitted properly (passenger side).
- Knocking from the front suspension over bumps. This usually means worn ARB bushes or top mounts but this is dependant on mileage really.
- Misfiring, usually coilpacks.
- If it has a CD autochanger, check it works and plays as they give up after a few years.
- Tyres, they eat front tyres
That's all I can think of really. The MAFs on these engines are quite delecate but that'll be hard to sport if it's going unless the car feel significantly sluggish.
- Front & back footwells for dampness. If they are, the sealant behind the door cards has perished and needs redoing or the pollen filter hasn't been fitted properly (passenger side).
- Knocking from the front suspension over bumps. This usually means worn ARB bushes or top mounts but this is dependant on mileage really.
- Misfiring, usually coilpacks.
- If it has a CD autochanger, check it works and plays as they give up after a few years.
- Tyres, they eat front tyres
That's all I can think of really. The MAFs on these engines are quite delecate but that'll be hard to sport if it's going unless the car feel significantly sluggish.
jcborden
Guest
Also check for rattles from the dashboard - which can easily be missed on a test drive (I certainly missed a few anyway).
Definitely put the air con on and set the temperature low (so that the A/C actuallyl comes on) and then check that both radiator fans turn slowly - if they are not on and suddenly you get a pulsing of the fast fans (you will know as they are load) then one or both fans need replacing (or there is a fix you can purchase which you can read about on this site). Replacing both fans can be in the region of £400 - so it is a good bargaining point!
Definitely put the air con on and set the temperature low (so that the A/C actuallyl comes on) and then check that both radiator fans turn slowly - if they are not on and suddenly you get a pulsing of the fast fans (you will know as they are load) then one or both fans need replacing (or there is a fix you can purchase which you can read about on this site). Replacing both fans can be in the region of £400 - so it is a good bargaining point!
Even if HPI checks are clear and the seller might say its never been in an accident, might be worth checking a few things:
Hope that helps - best of luck with the purchase - hope to see you on here soon with your LCR!
JP
- Look closely at the front and back bumpers to see if there has been any paintwork done, good things is to get a good reflection in it
- Open up the bonnet and check the bolts on that connect the wing panels. they shouldnt have tool marks on them and should be painted
- Look in the boot, lift up the carpet and check if there are any signs of welding
- Check that panels all align properly, especially where wing/bumper/headlamps meet
- Check that all the bits and pieces for changing the wheel are there - should be easy to check - if there is a gap in the polystyrene then something is missing
- Spare tyre - check if its an alloy - should be - and also check the tread on it. If you have a spare but the tread is gone, then its MOT failure (course, you can take it out before MOT, but its a bargaining point)
- Ask if he has the keyfob which is needed to be able to get another key cut - I didnt even know about it until after I had bought it and read the manual - only if you ever lose your spare
- Definitely take it for a test drive over some slightly bumpy road and quick enough to hear rattles. Dont think that I did - Didnt want to prang it - and there is a WELL annoying rattle on the passenger side dash that I cant for the life of me figure out what it it! Its like in the airvent I think!
Hope that helps - best of luck with the purchase - hope to see you on here soon with your LCR!
JP
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Here's a checklist compiled from various posts on this site:
LCR/Leon specific:
Uneven tick-over? Flat spots at 2,500-3,000rpm?
Is the MAF clean?
Engine code on a 225 should be BAM..., for 210s its AMK... Engine code can be found on front offside edge of the engine.
Can you check under the car? Is the under-tray still in place (these often get damaged/torn-off - £100-ish to replace)? Is the splitter present (if not, it's £25-ish at SEAT stealers & 'clip-on' fixing)? Check exhaust brackets are fully intact.
Boot lock work OK? (Simple/cheap fix.)
Evidence of water ingress in boot, under driver's/passenger's floor mats? (Simple/cheap fix.)
Check the rear wiper washer works fine and is not leaking into the boot. (Simple/cheap fix.)
Switch on the aircon and select 'low' for temperature. The radiator fans should come on but at a slow speed when using aircon. If the fans come on fast and loud then on / off then the fan motor resistors have gone.
Do the mirrors fold-in via the adjustment knob (turn to 6 o'clock position). Do they open OK when back to 12 o'clock position?
Does the horn work correctly? If its tone is merely a feeble 'peep', then it's a front-bumper-off job to clean, reconnect & reposition (facing rearward) horn.
Does the car have a pukka FULL SERVICE HISTORY (aka FSH)? If not, walk way!
Ask the owner to take you for a drive when the engine is cold; if he/she then thrashes it from cold - walk away! Similarly, if during the drive the engine/turbo is given a good workout, & the owner then switches off without letting the turbo cool-down (ie allowed to idle for approx 60secs) - walk away!
LCs/LCRs are generally robust & well-built, but can be pricey in the long-run if they've not been maintained or driven correctly.
General used-car checks:
If car is over 5 years old or accumulated 60k miles, it should have had/needs a cambelt change (also change water-pump to brass impeller on VAG 1.8Ts).
Brake pads - much left on them? Discs ok?
When warmed up, put in 6th at 30mph and put your foot down to check for clutch wear.
Gears engage correctly when driving in a spirited fashion (1st and 2nd especially)?
Check for play in steering. Car brakes in straight line / drives in straight line.
Is tyre-wear even? Tyre condition? Are all 4 tyres the same manufacturer/type?
Body alignment, dents, scratches etc. Crouch at rear & front of car & look along sides.
If the bodywork needs a wash, consider that the owner might be trying to conceal paint blemishes?
Any rattles (interior & exterior)?
Check all electrics, windows, fog lights (front & rear) etc.
Fully open and close all the windows and check for any nasty cracking/twanging noises - the cables can snap and unravel inside resulting in the glass falling inside the door. Check that central locking works on all doors. Both not massively expensive to fix but require stripping down the door and are a bit of a PITA.
Front light adjustment etc.
Scroll through trip computer, you may be able to see how its been driven... (mpg etc)
Check the CD changer works. Check all the speakers work.
Check engine temp doesn't go over 90C.
Ask owner to show you where the oil dipstick is located; if they don't know, then walk away 'cos it means they've never checked, or care about, the oil level...
Engine bay: fluid levels; 'mayo' on inside of oil cap; check dip-stick - is oil level low; is oil old (black & treacle-like)?
LCR/Leon specific:
Uneven tick-over? Flat spots at 2,500-3,000rpm?
Is the MAF clean?
Engine code on a 225 should be BAM..., for 210s its AMK... Engine code can be found on front offside edge of the engine.
Can you check under the car? Is the under-tray still in place (these often get damaged/torn-off - £100-ish to replace)? Is the splitter present (if not, it's £25-ish at SEAT stealers & 'clip-on' fixing)? Check exhaust brackets are fully intact.
Boot lock work OK? (Simple/cheap fix.)
Evidence of water ingress in boot, under driver's/passenger's floor mats? (Simple/cheap fix.)
Check the rear wiper washer works fine and is not leaking into the boot. (Simple/cheap fix.)
Switch on the aircon and select 'low' for temperature. The radiator fans should come on but at a slow speed when using aircon. If the fans come on fast and loud then on / off then the fan motor resistors have gone.
Do the mirrors fold-in via the adjustment knob (turn to 6 o'clock position). Do they open OK when back to 12 o'clock position?
Does the horn work correctly? If its tone is merely a feeble 'peep', then it's a front-bumper-off job to clean, reconnect & reposition (facing rearward) horn.
Does the car have a pukka FULL SERVICE HISTORY (aka FSH)? If not, walk way!
Ask the owner to take you for a drive when the engine is cold; if he/she then thrashes it from cold - walk away! Similarly, if during the drive the engine/turbo is given a good workout, & the owner then switches off without letting the turbo cool-down (ie allowed to idle for approx 60secs) - walk away!
LCs/LCRs are generally robust & well-built, but can be pricey in the long-run if they've not been maintained or driven correctly.
General used-car checks:
If car is over 5 years old or accumulated 60k miles, it should have had/needs a cambelt change (also change water-pump to brass impeller on VAG 1.8Ts).
Brake pads - much left on them? Discs ok?
When warmed up, put in 6th at 30mph and put your foot down to check for clutch wear.
Gears engage correctly when driving in a spirited fashion (1st and 2nd especially)?
Check for play in steering. Car brakes in straight line / drives in straight line.
Is tyre-wear even? Tyre condition? Are all 4 tyres the same manufacturer/type?
Body alignment, dents, scratches etc. Crouch at rear & front of car & look along sides.
If the bodywork needs a wash, consider that the owner might be trying to conceal paint blemishes?
Any rattles (interior & exterior)?
Check all electrics, windows, fog lights (front & rear) etc.
Fully open and close all the windows and check for any nasty cracking/twanging noises - the cables can snap and unravel inside resulting in the glass falling inside the door. Check that central locking works on all doors. Both not massively expensive to fix but require stripping down the door and are a bit of a PITA.
Front light adjustment etc.
Scroll through trip computer, you may be able to see how its been driven... (mpg etc)
Check the CD changer works. Check all the speakers work.
Check engine temp doesn't go over 90C.
Ask owner to show you where the oil dipstick is located; if they don't know, then walk away 'cos it means they've never checked, or care about, the oil level...
Engine bay: fluid levels; 'mayo' on inside of oil cap; check dip-stick - is oil level low; is oil old (black & treacle-like)?
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Take the car for a test drive and make sure it is cold, when turning right make sure car doesn't grumble or vibrate through the gear stick or the tunnel.
Mine is a 2005 model and its started doing this and the guy at Seat thinks it maybe the diff bearing starting to go and could cost £800 to fix.
Mine is a 2005 model and its started doing this and the guy at Seat thinks it maybe the diff bearing starting to go and could cost £800 to fix.
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Does anyone think that these points should be put into a sticky? Just that a lot of potential LCR buyers will end up at this forum, and to save a lot of "Use the search button" replies to potential buyer posts, maybe it would be useful for newcomers? Dunno, just a thought.
Paint fading issue on the Ovni Yellow.
If I had known this I would have gone for a different colour.
If I had known this I would have gone for a different colour.
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