Treading the old DPF waters… sorry!

Daveb77 · Oct 18, 2010

Folks,

Has anyone successfully done this:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Diesel_Particle_Filter_Emergency_Regeneration

Im not having problems at present (driving style seems to suit DPF, touch wood of course) but just interested should the inevitable happen. I do feel the regen kick in every few hundred miles and am conscious of keeping revs as near to 2000rpm on a daily basis.

I would also be interested in seeing if its worth doing the above every month or so to keep soot levels down, if that’s appropriate.

Just for interest, does anyone know if the ECU forces the regen (once the 25% or whatever levels have been reached) until it drops to 0% or does the regen stop after it drops just below the 25% threshold again (give or take a bit for instrument hysteresis etc)…?

If anyone has had success, I would be interested on how easy this was and if it was done with an example of the finest Chinese import VAG Com cable or a full whack RossTech version.

Many thanks,

D

Jon TDI · Oct 18, 2010

I've done a forced regen on my mates Octavia vRS. The engine had been running lumpy for while, so we tried a regen.
The initial "Lambda" reading was approx 40%. During the regen the reading dropped down & felt smooth at around 20%.
We managed to get it down to approx 5% & then the regen stopped.

The ECU is supposed to force regen, but I don't know at what point it does.

ash101 · Oct 18, 2010

I done one about 3 weeks ago got mine down from 58% to 0%.Like jon tdi said the car feels alot smoother now. I plan on checking it every few months now to keep on top of it.

U goto watch though there are warnings stating that if the soot load is over 75% it can cause ur car to catch fire if you do a forced regen.So make sure you check the soot levels before you proceed with the Regen

AndrewJB · Oct 18, 2010

"the car may burn down when regenerating" :cartman:

/dev/null · Oct 18, 2010

I'm also interested in this as mine keeps going into regen despite the load only measuring at around 20-25%. One question though, do you have to manually bring it out of forced regen mode, or will the ecu do that when you restart?

Nath. · Oct 18, 2010

I have Vag-Com and have done a bit of fiddling with the central convenience, can one of you guys give me a beginners guide on how to check the DPF level. I don't want to do a forced regen really as there doesn't seem to be any issues with mine (only ever seen the DPF light once) but I'm interested in monitoring the level.

Daveb77 · Oct 18, 2010

Thanks for the replies lads, looks like it’s a simple task to undertake, worthwhile as well for that smoother ride! I would second the request for a beginners guide though. I can easily set my lights to come on when I unlock the doors /disable seatbelt chime (i.e. simple VAG COM functions) but would be less confident without further guidance when forcing a re-gen that needs monitored on the move. Did a good search online but could only come up with link as per first post...

Will the re-gen stop once the ignition has been switched off or will it keep on going until the fuel tank / oil is dry and car is on fire (sounds mental! [:@]

). Any follow up advice would be grand,

Thanks again,

D

/dev/null · Oct 18, 2010

Nath. said:
I have Vag-Com and have done a bit of fiddling with the central convenience, can one of you guys give me a beginners guide on how to check the DPF level. I don't want to do a forced regen really as there doesn't seem to be any issues with mine (only ever seen the DPF light once) but I'm interested in monitoring the level.

DPF is in the engine measuring blocks, groups 70 and 75. If you visit the link in post #1 of this thread it shows at the bottom what each means. The lambda value is the DPF load.

FinGerS o FuDgE · Oct 18, 2010

Thanks /dev/null

Just tried it out on mine and my lambda value was @ 34.4%

Couldn't find anything else similar to this though:

MVB 070.1: Regeneration Status (xxxxxxx1 = Normal Regeneration active, xxxxxx1x = Forced Regeneration active)
MVB 070.3: Regeneration Counter/Timer
MVB 075.1: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Turbo Charger
MVB 075.2: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Particle Filter
MVB 075.3: Particle Filter Load
MVB 075.4: Exhaust Gas Temperature after Particle Filter

The only other info on show was temperatures?

Nooby question - Is it safe to drive the car while this is plugged in? Was thinking I could try various speeds/rpms and certain gears to see if the value drops quicker driving in a certain way?

Cheers

FinGerS o FuDgE · Oct 18, 2010

Scrap that. Wouldn't I only find the MVB 070 etc, etc if I enabled the regeneration?

ash101 · Oct 18, 2010

D...B... said:
Thanks for the replies lads, looks like it’s a simple task to undertake, worthwhile as well for that smoother ride! I would second the request for a beginners guide though. I can easily set my lights to come on when I unlock the doors /disable seatbelt chime (i.e. simple VAG COM functions) but would be less confident without further guidance when forcing a re-gen that needs monitored on the move. Did a good search online but could only come up with link as per first post...

Will the re-gen stop once the ignition has been switched off or will it keep on going until the fuel tank / oil is dry and car is on fire (sounds mental! ). Any follow up advice would be grand,

Thanks again,

D

Yeah regen will stop if you turn off ignition.

This is how i done it-

I first loged on to vagcom with the car .

1st Select engine 01 module

2nd select security access then in the box type 21295 press Go you will then see dpf light lit on the dash.

3rd Then select meas block 8.

In meas block 8 select 70&75. The soot level is in the 3rd colum in block 75 its under lambda whatever this figure is equates to the % of soot in dpf.

Mine was 58% (WARNING if the soot level is 75% or more you run the risk of burning down your car whilst in forced regen) Thats what it says on the ross tech website.

Once i got my soot load figure and I new it was under the 75% I then turned off the engine which canceled the regen.

I then drove to a quite b road with vagcom still pluged in and run through steps 1-3 again and then drove the car in fourth gear at aprox 2000rpm whilst keeping an eye on the lambda fiqure on vagcom which gradually decreased to 0% ,For me that was it job done!!

Now i must say im far from an expert In vagcom software .But this was the procedure i followed and it worked for me .

If you try it u do so at ur own risk!!Lol . ps dont want to be blamed for anyones car burning down!!

/dev/null · Oct 18, 2010

FinGerS o FuDgE said:
Thanks /dev/null

Just tried it out on mine and my lambda value was @ 34.4%

Couldn't find anything else similar to this though:

MVB 070.1: Regeneration Status (xxxxxxx1 = Normal Regeneration active, xxxxxx1x = Forced Regeneration active)
MVB 070.3: Regeneration Counter/Timer
MVB 075.1: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Turbo Charger
MVB 075.2: Exhaust Gas Temperature before Particle Filter
MVB 075.3: Particle Filter Load
MVB 075.4: Exhaust Gas Temperature after Particle Filter

The only other info on show was temperatures?

Nooby question - Is it safe to drive the car while this is plugged in? Was thinking I could try various speeds/rpms and certain gears to see if the value drops quicker driving in a certain way?

Cheers

No, all that means is the four boxes you have across the screen, they correspond to the list above.
So MVB 070.3 means the third box on block 70, and so on...

My value hovers around 20-25% so I should be ok - would be nice to get it down to zero though and see whether the car keeps juddering on idle and losing power.

FinGerS o FuDgE · Oct 18, 2010

Thanks Ash.
A quick question - Say I don't enter the code to force the regen, but I drive my car regardless @ around 2200rpm, the DPF should heat itself to the required temperature and burn itself out?
Going to have a blast tonight and try it out

ash101 · Oct 18, 2010

Mine was juddering on idle and it didnt feel so responsive the idle would rise to about 850rpm and there would be a strong smell from the exhaust.It was happening every few hundred miles but since doing the forced regen about 600 miles ago it hasnt done it fingers crossed.

FinGerS o FuDgE · Oct 18, 2010

/dev/null said:
No, all that means is the four boxes you have across the screen, they correspond to the list above.
So MVB 070.3 means the third box on block 70, and so on...

My value hovers around 20-25% so I should be ok - would be nice to get it down to zero though and see whether the car keeps juddering on idle and losing power.

Ahh, cheers mate. I get what your referring too now lol :headhurt:

/dev/null · Oct 18, 2010

It will somewhat, but not to the same level as a forced regen. The forced regen is getting the temps a lot higher than they normally would to guarantee that soot is continuously burned off. Driving round in a low gear will just cause it to gradually drop the level, but at the same time you are still adding small amounts so it would take ages! The purpose of normal regen is just so it keeps it "happy", not to get it back down to 0.

ash101 · Oct 18, 2010

FinGerS o FuDgE said:
Thanks Ash.
A quick question - Say I don't enter the code to force the regen, but I drive my car regardless @ around 2200rpm, the DPF should heat itself to the required temperature and burn itself out?
Going to have a blast tonight and try it out

From what i can gather giving it a good blast now and then will slow down the build up of the soot load but not sure if it would burn off the soot thats already built up. Because when the car is in regen mode it injects extra diesel to help burn off the soot.

I may be wrong though!

FinGerS o FuDgE · Oct 18, 2010

Well I'm off to work in a bit. Going to give it a blast the whole way there (13 miles) and then hook it up and check the value again

ash101 · Oct 18, 2010

FinGerS o FuDgE said:
Well I'm off to work in a bit. Going to give it a blast the whole way there (13 miles) and then hook it up and check the value again

Let us know the result itl be intersting to know if a good blast does it any good.

/dev/null · Oct 18, 2010

Remember if you blast it, whilst the temps are getting hotter, you're just shoving a load more exhaust gasses through it so the soot will build up again - blasting it (as well as short journeys of course) is one of reasons it gets full in the first place!

Regen adjusts the fuel to air mix so that the gasses are hotter for the same amount of fumes meaning it's not clogging up as quick as you can burn it off!

Treading the old DPF waters… sorry!

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