longest running cordoba fault in the world...probably

illzlee

Guest
one day, i'll post something one here that's positive about my cordoba:p

however, for now my local dealer claims to have fixed my cordy (£1300 later:censored:)

however, it's only half fixed and i've had a couple of other suggestions i'd like to run past the seat experts on here........who i'm sure i owe more than a beer or two by now;)

when i start my 16v cordy from cold it idles like a canal boat. doff doff doff etc like it's running on two cylinders and then cuts out. however, hold the horrid revs at 2k for 5 mins and when it's warm it runs fine. when atrted from warm it's fine too. doesn't cut out while driving and otherwise behaves itself.......

the suggestion i've had from my local useful garage is that there could be air trapped in the fuel lines or the fuel pump itself is not responding quick enough. when left for a while the fuel would seep back down the line and when started the engine runs v.lean until warm......

any thoughts?:whistle: it got better after i replaced the fuel pump relay recently.........
 

andyj

There's no F in Quality..
personally I'd try the coolant temp sensor.....

if when the engine is cold, and the sensor is reading 'hot', then the ECU will run the engine lean, i.e. no choke.....

when the engine's cold, the ECU should run the engine rich until it warms up, and then will reduce the fueling accordingly.

IIRC you've already had the temp sensor changed during the dealers prolonged diagnosis of your original problem...... might be worth the £10 to try another one.

Hope that helps!

Andy
 

illzlee

Guest
yeah i've had two coolant temp sensors on it already, i replaced it and so did GK. Might try putting my old one back in to see what happens....failing that it's only a tenner.

a drop in the ocean!:blink:
 

Saul

<b>SCN Admin</b>
May 21, 2001
4,194
0
i take it, you've done the whole HT side of things?

have you checked the pipe coming off the back off the airbox?
 

illzlee

Guest
yes mate, it's had 2 sets of leads, 2 sets of plugs, 2 dizzy caps & replacement distributor. Haven't checked the breathers for about 6 months (not been running anyway) but will have a look later for crud[B)]
 

illzlee

Guest
well i had a look last night and all the breathers appear to be clear - borderline clean!

tried to start it this morning to no avail. most mornings it will start if you plant you foot to the floor on the first sign of firing up. this morning i gave it a chance to start and idle on it's ovn.............cue taking my girlfriends beetle to work:p

might start removing fuel lines and attempting to 'bleed' the system if thats even possible.
 

Saul

<b>SCN Admin</b>
May 21, 2001
4,194
0
lift the bonnet first thing in the morning and check the fuel lines on the drivers side inner front wing, they have a habit of perishing and leaking
 

illzlee

Guest
i'll check as you say in the morning. weird symptom also appeared today, after failing to start today i unlocked it using the remote fob - got in and started it and the closk resets itself and the stereo loses it's current position like all power has been cut until it started this afternoon:confused:

does anyone know of a good seat exorcist? spinning round and vomiting at me are some of the only things it hasn't done to me lately.......:rolleyes:
 

Fl@pper

Back older greyer and less oilier but always hope
Jun 19, 2001
12,368
25
Gloucester
although you have had 2 sensors have you checked/tested the connections right through ?

the symptoms of crap when cold but fine when warm would suggest its the dreaded inj temp sensor

either that or a cold only air leak but that isnt as possible as i would suggest it would play up when warm too really - double check your manifold is bolted down and tight (not warped)

as for the second fault :) (fun this aint it) i'm leaning to a battery voltage as with all the starting problems you will be draining it a lot more than usual and although not flat if they get low they can temporarily drain to the point of acting like a disconnection iffy engine control relay possibly?

i have the ecu/pin and test layouts if you are any good with a multimeter ?

sensor test

temp degrees centigrade / resistance in ohms

0 / 4800-7000
10 / 3250-4400
20 / 2200-300
30 / 1500-2100
40 / 900-1400
50 / 700-950
60 / 535-670
70 / 400-500
80 / 275-375
 
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illzlee

Guest
sounds more like you have a duff power supply relay (x relief)

which relay.....? have replaced ecu control relay & fuel pump relay, tried to replace relay plate but GK can't match the correct part at the minute - sold me a plastic relay holder that bears no resemblance the part i wanted last week......

although you have had 2 sensors have you checked/tested the connections right through ?

Err, no. I'd have a play tonight with my sensor but am on hols from tomorrow morning for a week..... might sod the packing and test the sensor instead!;)

actually - may be being a bit thick, how do you change the temp on the sensor to deteect the change in resistance:headhurt:
 

illzlee

Guest
another symptom appeared this morning - following intervention by my girlfriend moving the car yesterday (driving it holding it at 3K revs whil lumpy). started this morning as normal by holding revs at 2K till fine but the fuel light came on for 5 seconds...........................with a full tank of unleaded:shrug:
 
Lecatona HPFP (High-pressure Fuel Pump Upgrades)