Things you will need:
Step 1 (optional) – Mask the area if you are changing the badges
For this step you will need your detailing car tape.
As I was swapping the CUPRA silver lettering for black lettering I wanted them to go in exactly the same place which is what this step is for. If you are just removing badges and not replacing them skip to the next step.
Using the tape carefully run strips along the edge of the badges to mark out their placement.
Step 2 – Remove the badge(s)
For this step you will need your dental floss and hair dryer.
Using the hair dryer, you can heat up the glue behind the badge which makes it easier to get the badge off. I heated them for between 30 to 60 seconds. (I was doing this with an outside temperature of 7 degrees C)
Then take your dental floss and hook it around the badge. Slowly move the floss from side to side pulling it gently from one side to the other. You should feel the badge start to give way from the glue.
Mine came off easily with this method.
Repeat for each badge.
You will be left with some sticky backing and glue residue.
Step 3 – Removing the sticky backing
For this step you will need your hair dryer, gloves, glue remover and cloths.
If you are lucky the sticky backing will have all come off with the badges and all you are left with is glue residue. If this is the case skip to the next step. However, it’s more likely that you are left with the rubber backing where the badge came off.
Heat the backing with the hair dryer and soak with the glue remover. I sprayed this on liberally and soaked a cloth with it and held it onto the backing for a couple of minutes. You will want to do this in a well-ventilated area as the fumes from the glue remover are strong. I still had a bit of a headache after doing this.
Of course, follow the instructions on the glue remover in case it has some specific guidance.
Once the backing has been softened it should be easy enough to remove with your fingers. Be careful not to use your nails as you could scratch the bodywork. Just rubbing your fingers over it should remove it. You may also be able to peel some bits off as well.
Keep topping up the glue remover and heat as necessary until all you are left with is some glue residue on the paintwork.
Step 4 – Removing glue residue
For this step you will need your glue remover and cloth.
This is mainly a repeat of step 3, but you just need to use a combination of glue remover and cloth to gently rub away the remaining glue residue. Heat with the hair dryer again if necessary.
Step 5 – Cleaning the area
For this step you will need your car soap and water.
You now need to remove all traces of the glue remover as that stuff stinks and you don’t want to leave it longer than necessary on your paintwork.
Give the car a wash in the area you have been working in and make sure it is thoroughly rinsed and dried off.
Step 6 – Polishing
For this step you’ll need your polish and polishing pad/cloth.
You will probably have some marks left on your paintwork now which is where the polish comes in.
Simply polish the area until the marks are gone. Give a final buff and admire your handywork. If you are just de-badging, then this is the last step. If you are replacing with a new badge or badges proceed to the last step 7.
Step 7 – fitting the new badge
For this step you will need your new badge.
Ensure the area you are affixing the badge to is now clean and fully dry. As it was quite cold first, I heated the paintwork a bit with the hairdryer.
In the case of the new black CUPRA lettering, SEAT kindly provide a clear window so you can line the badge up. Simply use the marked-out area you made with the tape to align the badge (removing the backing first of course) and then pressing firmly into place.
I had to just tidy up a few bits with the cloth and polish afterwards as I wasn’t working in the best light at the entrance to the garage.
It takes a few hours for the glue to work fully so avoid getting it wet or using a pressure washer on the badges if possible.
That’s it, you’re done. Please give this guide a rating if you found it useful and share your experiences in the comments below.
- Dental floss
- Paint safe tar/glue remover, I used Gtechniq W7 Tar and Glue Remover (but some people use petrol, use at your own risk!)
- Hairdryer
- Gloves
- Detailing car tape
- Car Shampoo / water
- Polish – I used Autoglym Super Resin Polish
- Polishing pad/cloth
- Microfibre cloths
- New badges if you are doing a swap like I did – for all official SEAT car parts check out our sponsor for a great price on official parts.
Step 1 (optional) – Mask the area if you are changing the badges
For this step you will need your detailing car tape.
As I was swapping the CUPRA silver lettering for black lettering I wanted them to go in exactly the same place which is what this step is for. If you are just removing badges and not replacing them skip to the next step.
Using the tape carefully run strips along the edge of the badges to mark out their placement.
Step 2 – Remove the badge(s)
For this step you will need your dental floss and hair dryer.
Using the hair dryer, you can heat up the glue behind the badge which makes it easier to get the badge off. I heated them for between 30 to 60 seconds. (I was doing this with an outside temperature of 7 degrees C)
Then take your dental floss and hook it around the badge. Slowly move the floss from side to side pulling it gently from one side to the other. You should feel the badge start to give way from the glue.
Mine came off easily with this method.
Repeat for each badge.
You will be left with some sticky backing and glue residue.
Step 3 – Removing the sticky backing
For this step you will need your hair dryer, gloves, glue remover and cloths.
If you are lucky the sticky backing will have all come off with the badges and all you are left with is glue residue. If this is the case skip to the next step. However, it’s more likely that you are left with the rubber backing where the badge came off.
Heat the backing with the hair dryer and soak with the glue remover. I sprayed this on liberally and soaked a cloth with it and held it onto the backing for a couple of minutes. You will want to do this in a well-ventilated area as the fumes from the glue remover are strong. I still had a bit of a headache after doing this.
Of course, follow the instructions on the glue remover in case it has some specific guidance.
Once the backing has been softened it should be easy enough to remove with your fingers. Be careful not to use your nails as you could scratch the bodywork. Just rubbing your fingers over it should remove it. You may also be able to peel some bits off as well.
Keep topping up the glue remover and heat as necessary until all you are left with is some glue residue on the paintwork.
Step 4 – Removing glue residue
For this step you will need your glue remover and cloth.
This is mainly a repeat of step 3, but you just need to use a combination of glue remover and cloth to gently rub away the remaining glue residue. Heat with the hair dryer again if necessary.
Step 5 – Cleaning the area
For this step you will need your car soap and water.
You now need to remove all traces of the glue remover as that stuff stinks and you don’t want to leave it longer than necessary on your paintwork.
Give the car a wash in the area you have been working in and make sure it is thoroughly rinsed and dried off.
Step 6 – Polishing
For this step you’ll need your polish and polishing pad/cloth.
You will probably have some marks left on your paintwork now which is where the polish comes in.
Simply polish the area until the marks are gone. Give a final buff and admire your handywork. If you are just de-badging, then this is the last step. If you are replacing with a new badge or badges proceed to the last step 7.
Step 7 – fitting the new badge
For this step you will need your new badge.
Ensure the area you are affixing the badge to is now clean and fully dry. As it was quite cold first, I heated the paintwork a bit with the hairdryer.
In the case of the new black CUPRA lettering, SEAT kindly provide a clear window so you can line the badge up. Simply use the marked-out area you made with the tape to align the badge (removing the backing first of course) and then pressing firmly into place.
I had to just tidy up a few bits with the cloth and polish afterwards as I wasn’t working in the best light at the entrance to the garage.
It takes a few hours for the glue to work fully so avoid getting it wet or using a pressure washer on the badges if possible.
That’s it, you’re done. Please give this guide a rating if you found it useful and share your experiences in the comments below.
