That's AWD and heavier
I do agree the Falkens are a stiff compound however having had GSD3, the new Goodyear Asymmetrics and the Toyos - 3000 miles per set is NOT acceptable no matter how much grip there is.
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That's AWD and heavier
I do agree the Falkens are a stiff compound however having had GSD3, the new Goodyear Asymmetrics and the Toyos - 3000 miles per set is NOT acceptable no matter how much grip there is.
I am liking the look of the Hankooks and the positive feedback from them. Especially as they got great magazine write-ups compared to the F1 Asymmetrics.
List currently
1) Toyo
2) Hankook
3) Falken 912? Probee said they were better than the 452s?
List currently
1) Toyo
2) Hankook
3) Falken 912? Probee said they were better than the 452s?
That's AWD and heavier
Well to be honest, i have accepted that is the "norm" if you drive like a loon...
You want good grip, that means softer compound, i think thats the science of it!
If your careful you get more, but end of the day, you mod a car, you drive your car a certain way its expensive full stop!
Replacing tyres regular is just the norm for me, so much so, i buy 6 at a time... normally get discount that way!
EDIT:
Also Pat, Maz is in the same boat as me... and has a ATB diff, something that helps no end in saving tyres on turn in... unlike yours which just rips chunks out on your speeding round MK roundabouts....
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CHING!!!!!!! not a bad idea tho!
I'm switching from Goodyears all round to Falkens. Mainly, if there no good ill be switching str8 back
Well i found that way, i wasnt caught without the funds to replace the tyres if they got low... which in my case is at the end of the month and cops have been following me around waiting to catch me at minimum tread depth!
I just swap tyres over for £20 a wheel... then buy another 6 again the following year normally.. 6 tyres in a year normally for me. 235/35/19 aint cheap thou...
Try the Hankooks! they are meant to be better or equal to asymmetrics..That way if they are rubbish I benifit by your mistakeCHING!!!!!!! not a bad idea tho!
I'm switching from Goodyears all round to Falkens. Mainly, if there no good ill be switching str8 back
i like them still Maz, they have been as good as gold... you are not going to get any tyres that stick that well with that much torque. its an issue for me so must be for you but you get used to it.
Well i found that way, i wasnt caught without the funds to replace the tyres if they got low... which in my case is at the end of the month and cops have been following me around waiting to catch me at minimum tread depth!
I just swap tyres over for £20 a wheel... then buy another 6 again the following year normally.. 6 tyres in a year normally for me. 235/35/19 aint cheap thou...
6 tyres in a year hahaha i get through 3 full sets a year
That I think is the point, if i was only doing 3 to 5k a year it would be fine. Also this is the reason i won't be going BT, by the time you've added in clutch, LSD, Turbo, mapping and fitting + VAT you then have the extra cost of Tyres, Discs and Pads, Suspension bushes and Diesel because you can go that much quicker and therefore wear out consumables even faster.IF mone is an issue why not just buy decent fronts - it's that you're struggling to put grip down through the driven wheels, not the rear wheels - cornering speed won't have changed and with the LSD - the front is doing most of the work anyway.
Nice power maz, no point going for a drive in mine now, lol. Yours is faster and i rekon will out handle mine aswell. You can take me out for a drive in the summer when my car has a little detail.
Your right but then buying an older faster car doesn't mean its cheaper to run. They are probably more expensive for wear and tear and more thirsty. As always pro's and con's for doing both routes.6 tyres in a year hahaha i get through 3 full sets a year
IF mone is an issue why not just buy decent fronts - it's that you're struggling to put grip down through the driven wheels, not the rear wheels - cornering speed won't have changed and with the LSD - the front is doing most of the work anyway.
Cheers Liam. Yea of course, it will be dry then so hopefully should have more grip hehe.Nice power maz, no point going for a drive in mine now, lol. Yours is faster and i rekon will out handle mine aswell. You can take me out for a drive in the summer when my car has a little detail.
Motorway run
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Something interesting. I done a 138mile round trip yesterday. I noticed that in 6th gear when crusing at 1900rpm if I put my foot down there is too much load on the DMF and its starts to judder. This is because the turbo isn't fully spooled up and there is too much pressure / labour until the turbo fully spools up at 2500. On part throttle there is no issue but the car still accelerates as incredible speeds. I will of course have to now adjust my driving style and possible drop down a gear for fast overtaking.
I also returned a figure of 50mpg! Usually get 52-53 on the same run so only dropped 2-3mpg. I probably would have got better if I wasn't playing with the torque
I am going to take the car to AmD this Monday just to check it isn't a clutch problem. They basically confirmed my suspicions however over the phone. I dont really want to turn the map down as I love the power.
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Something interesting. I done a 138mile round trip yesterday. I noticed that in 6th gear when crusing at 1900rpm if I put my foot down there is too much load on the DMF and its starts to judder. This is because the turbo isn't fully spooled up and there is too much pressure / labour until the turbo fully spools up at 2500. On part throttle there is no issue but the car still accelerates as incredible speeds. I will of course have to now adjust my driving style and possible drop down a gear for fast overtaking.
I also returned a figure of 50mpg! Usually get 52-53 on the same run so only dropped 2-3mpg. I probably would have got better if I wasn't playing with the torque
I am going to take the car to AmD this Monday just to check it isn't a clutch problem. They basically confirmed my suspicions however over the phone. I dont really want to turn the map down as I love the power.
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Sounds like as i thought it would behave....
One question i would raise, the timing of the turbo kicking in, as I'm sure the turbo with abit more tweaking of the map could spool up sooner than 3k, not fully, but just more than currently...? my 2p worth?
One question i would raise, the timing of the turbo kicking in, as I'm sure the turbo with abit more tweaking of the map could spool up sooner than 3k, not fully, but just more than currently...? my 2p worth?
Looks like your mpg went up going downhill last night Maz. 2-3 mpg variance is much more acceptable than 6-8 mpg.
I'm sure that judder can be mapped out somehow without loosing too much in the way of numbers.
I'm sure that judder can be mapped out somehow without loosing too much in the way of numbers.
Sounds like as i thought it would behave....
One question i would raise, the timing of the turbo kicking in, as I'm sure the turbo with abit more tweaking of the map could spool up sooner than 3k, not fully, but just more than currently...? my 2p worth?
The turbo kicks in @2500 and if you ease the power on it isnt a problem. Problem comes when you plant your foot down in 6th and your requesting full boost / power at like 1900-2000 rpm.
I am sure I could get more with more adjustment to driving style with this turbo.
As for the judder I will see what they say, get it RR'ed again and tweak the map if required. Problem is the turbo is much bigger, takes longer to spool up so its going to struggle at 2000 rpm in 6th. 2000 in 5th is different.
If you look at other TD2 graphs they spool even later than mine 2750-3000 where as mine is 2500.
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