-
Hey Guest one of our sponsors Progressive Parts is running Black Friday and Cyber Monday offers - more details here
Yes please
I was thinking of blanking my locks and having a spare flip fob in case the first dies, so I can get into my car!
Should work mate, unless they havent been coded in correctly??
ive used a golf blank key blade, got a fob (which are the same on VW as Seat) got the key cut then took it to my local dealer and got it coded in, works fine.
one other thing aswell, if anyone is getting there keys coded in remember to take ALL your spares as once another is coded it will cancel the others, it hink this is correct anyway lol
Yea 433 mhz will work or "should" work anyway, i have got mine to work, and you can get the imobilser coded to your car aswell at seat
Yes please
I was thinking of blanking my locks and having a spare flip fob in case the first dies, so I can get into my car!
Hi mate,
the part numbers for the flip keys are...
Key Blade (this is from seat dealer and wil have to be ordered for your car from dealer, will come cut to your key number)
- 6L0 837 246 B INB
the Fob bit is - 1J0 959 753 CT
and if you do what i have done and get a blank VW fliper of the bay then this is the part number for the little seat badge - 1M0 837 891 A JGT
thats the setup ive got, works fine for me but a few people are having problems..
hope this helps
coalsey... that p/n for the blade, is that just the blade, or the flip-section of the fob? I was told by my local dealers (seat, vw, skoda and audi!) that the blade does not come seperately?
Jimski, that sounds like the process I used, but I seem to remember i had to do mine a couple of times before it worked, not sure whether there's some sort of timings involved that I just happened to get right? I think there's been a few methods posted on here, might be worth having a search and keep trying for a bit longer? checked your battery is all fresh etc?
Jimski, that sounds like the process I used, but I seem to remember i had to do mine a couple of times before it worked, not sure whether there's some sort of timings involved that I just happened to get right? I think there's been a few methods posted on here, might be worth having a search and keep trying for a bit longer? checked your battery is all fresh etc?
Right, well, spent the afternoon messing around with VAGCOM, seems the 2 fobs i have are not compatible with the vehicle, measuring blocks 13 on central convenience proved this, as it brings up a positive value when the either buttons are pressed if they are compatible.
I also erased the original fob through vagcom in order to start afresh and the method i have used previsouly worked for re-programming.
It also may be worth noting that the ECU's are told to only accept 1 key in some instances, there is an adaptation whereby you can alter the number of keys that the ECU can handle from 1-4 however this proved unsuccessful in my case. Unsure why.
I took all this from the Ross-tech website where it is documented extensively, some of the instructions are slightly different but the basic principle applies.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html
Hope this helps some people to decide whether to do this etc
Jimski
I also erased the original fob through vagcom in order to start afresh and the method i have used previsouly worked for re-programming.
It also may be worth noting that the ECU's are told to only accept 1 key in some instances, there is an adaptation whereby you can alter the number of keys that the ECU can handle from 1-4 however this proved unsuccessful in my case. Unsure why.
I took all this from the Ross-tech website where it is documented extensively, some of the instructions are slightly different but the basic principle applies.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html
Hope this helps some people to decide whether to do this etc
Jimski
yea it comes as the blade with the flip mech aswell, top bit of the palstic fob part if that makes sense
Similar threads
