turbin
Guest
Always
of course there is.... But you would agree the Koni FSD shocks are somewhat more rigid than the stock uns?
As understood for reading others comments on here, no personal experience.
We're going for different things in cars, mine is going more track focussed so doing the chassis stiffening first then get suspension. But the 'numb' comment scared me well away from FSD's but perhaps might suit your needs
We're going for different things in cars, mine is going more track focussed so doing the chassis stiffening first then get suspension. But the 'numb' comment scared me well away from FSD's but perhaps might suit your needs
I'm thinking of the new AP coilovers that Awesome are doing at the moment. However the range of adjustment appears to be 35-65mm front and rear. Even at 35mm is this too low for an LCR?.
They are a fixed rate damper but they seem a good price. Anyone have a set as yet?
They are a fixed rate damper but they seem a good price. Anyone have a set as yet?
Those will be quotes for other Mk1 Leon models not the LCR
15-20mm will be a safe drop on an LCR anything 25mm+ would be risking your undertray / sump / splitter etc on speed bumps
For anyone thinking of lowering there LCR (assuming it's for perfromance not aesthetics) consider some anti-roll bars before changing springs / dampers etc
Some info here too, which you may have read
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91243
Whatever you choose the #1 problem is ensuring you get a kit for the LCR not the Cupra.....the giveaway is that the front shock absorbers need brackets to take the front ARB on an LCR (Other Leon models are different design)
Whats better of coilovers or springkits and makes?
Some info here too, which you may have read
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91243
Whatever you choose the #1 problem is ensuring you get a kit for the LCR not the Cupra.....the giveaway is that the front shock absorbers need brackets to take the front ARB on an LCR (Other Leon models are different design)
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Awesome will probably be able to give you the correct numbers for the LCR as they understand the differences LCR to cupra
The previous 35mm+ figures are for a std MK4 Golf / Cupra application
turbin
Guest
For anyone thinking of lowering there LCR (assuming it's for perfromance not aesthetics) consider some anti-roll bars before changing springs / dampers etc
Some info here too, which you may have read
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91243
Whatever you choose the #1 problem is ensuring you get a kit for the LCR not the Cupra.....the giveaway is that the front shock absorbers need brackets to take the front ARB on an LCR (Other Leon models are different design)
Neuspeed rear arb is in the works when the sun arise again in the springtime. Lets just say for the sake of argument Im not limited by budget on selecting coilover /spring kits, what would suit me better? As stated 20mm-ish lower and somewhat stiffer. Aiming for a smuuth but firm ride. Perhaps a trackday once a year.
Will a coilover kit be just to much to fiddle with and hard to set up as I might just need 10% of its potential.
Some coilover kits can be adjusted for height, others for rebound etc too so decide what you need. My guess is that 95% of Coilovers get adjusted a few times then left very few people fiddle with height or rebound etc after fitment.
If you are only doing a few track days then I'd recommend spending your time adjusting (reducing) the air pressure in your tyres rather than fiddling with the suspension on the track day - just my opinion.
So why go for coilovers?
Coilovers offer a perfectly matched set of springs and dampers and have a few other benefits too (ability to fit wider wheels, height adjustment, rebound adjustment, ability to tune your set-up etc etc depending on the kit selected). Luckily my budget allowed Coilovers and this is where I focused my search.
Sets of off the shelf Springs and dampers 'may' have been thrown together from the part bin, or may be brilliant either way not much R&D will have been done on mixed sets.
For argument sake if you are not limited to budget then follow the usual rule of thumb, spend slightly more and buy some quality, my personal preference
coilovers;-
KW Coilovers
Bilstein PSS Coilover
H&R kits are meant to be good too
Springs and dampers;-
Koni FSD shocks and Eibach springs get good review
Why just a rear Neuspeed ARB? the front end has quite a lot of weight (the engine) and a big hole cut out of the floor plan for the engine, IMO front ARB's are a welcome addition
turbin
Guest
-What do you mean reduce the air pressure in my tyres? That will only lead to uneven wear and loss of performance. If you refer to the 45psi on a previous tread I wrote I would do some testing and found 33-34psi to be to soft. Mushy feel. So I run 36psi rear and 38psi front now. These are 235/40 18" BF Goodrich G-force T/A KDW II and not stock tires /seize /make so oem nrs. dont apply.
-OK, let me ask using different words: Will a coilover kit make the car TO sensitive and stiff on a normal road surface with potholes and whatnot youll find there?
-My understanding is that a larger front ARB will make the car understeer more hence Im only goin for the rear ARB. Again, Im not making a track car! Just want it that little stiffer and smuuther.
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-My understanding is that a larger front ARB will make the car understeer more hence Im only goin for the rear ARB. Again, Im not making a track car! Just want it that little stiffer and smuuther.
With my 25mm front /28mm rear arbs, I've lost pretty much all understeer.
paul-murphys
efr 6758 here i come
where did you buy these from ? im after new anti roll bars an strut brace.... goin to try get part numver for s3 top strut brace an then will get new anti roll bars...
Awesome for the ARB's
and my local Audi dealer for the Strut Brace. £61inc it was. Got the Part number of this forum.
-What do you mean reduce the air pressure in my tyres? That will only lead to uneven wear and loss of performance. If you refer to the 45psi on a previous tread I wrote I would do some testing and found 33-34psi to be to soft. Mushy feel. So I run 36psi rear and 38psi front now. These are 235/40 18" BF Goodrich G-force T/A KDW II and not stock tires /seize /make so oem nrs. dont apply.
-OK, let me ask using different words: Will a coilover kit make the car TO sensitive and stiff on a normal road surface with potholes and whatnot youll find there?
In a word.Yes.By the sound of it you want to compromise and are not going for all out performance so koni fsd/eibach would be a good compromise,you wont be doing track days,you dont want the ride too stiff,you dont want to lower your car too much or be adjusting the ride height so why bother with coilovers.I had eibach springs on my last car and the difference was very noticable over the standard ones(which were uprated anyway),much more controlled under hard aceleration/braking and made handling much better but was still comfortabl.e
turbin
Guest
thats really the answer I was looking for... Guess me gettin some new FSD shocks soon then
sorted
sorted
This thread has been very helpful, as I want exactly the same from my car as Turbin does. However, as a very amateur modder, I'm not sure which order to do them in. (Them being strut braces, arbs, koniFSD/eibachs, dog bone mounts etc). Suggestions?
Thanks
Thanks
TBH all at the same time. You will save money as the front ARB needs the subframe dropping and after that needs the 4 wheels geometry done. This also needs done after the suspension is done. So best bet is to save the cash and buy all at once, plus you will get some discount.
Yeh i agree with junior senior.I had roll bars done first,this made the biggest and most noticeable difference to handling and made me doubt as to change suspension or not,but as most do i couldnt resist and changed suspension which also required alignment check all of which adds to the cost.
If cost comes into it and buying arb's and suspension in one hit is too much,and to be honest it will be a big bill depending on which brand you go for and you factor in fitting costs too then i would definatley recomend the fitting of arbs first and see what you think to the handling after that.
As to which size/combination arbs you go for is a whole new argument and people have different opinions on which is best,but there are a good few threads on roll bars to give you an idea.
If cost comes into it and buying arb's and suspension in one hit is too much,and to be honest it will be a big bill depending on which brand you go for and you factor in fitting costs too then i would definatley recomend the fitting of arbs first and see what you think to the handling after that.
As to which size/combination arbs you go for is a whole new argument and people have different opinions on which is best,but there are a good few threads on roll bars to give you an idea.
It's a tip for track days and one that few people seem to grasp
When you do track days take a good pressure gauge and a pump
Monitor the pressures after the first run and you will see massively high pressures (poss +10psi over std could be possible) this is the Intense heat you put into the tyres (not like you ever get on the road)
Adjust the pressures down to suit.
Be warned when the tyres are cold they will be under inflated so go carefull
Reinflate before your drive home
I did 25,000miles (not Km's) on an LCR with -20mm ride on Bilstein PSS Coillovers
UK roads are cr@p
I often had to take 3 or 4 adults
No scraping and Better damping than std suspension
occassionally I found the ride a little choppy but 95% of the time no worse than the std LCR
More detailed review in the link I gave earlier
Speaking from exeprience.....not guess work or what my mate said in the pub
Mine wasn't a track car I did 20,000+miles a year in it, All I can say is in 1 year of ownership of an LCR with 28mm rear and 25mm front ARB's I never experienced understeer as bad as the std LCR
In the dry lift off oversteer caught with a slight lift off the gas only, bad over steer when I drove stupidly was a little flick of opposite lock.
Even in the wet (Where I admit you always need to be carefull) I never found understeer a problem
Good tyres are a must though particularly on the back
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