Common Mk4 Problems

st10587

i only brake for cake!!!!
Oct 4, 2007
3,669
0
Hindhead
Hi, can someone please tell me how to gain access to the brake light bulb o/s rear without breaking the lens? Thanks:confused:

open the boot, remove the 2 screws that hold the cluster in, give the cluster a good tug and it should pop out, some are very stif n require a tweak with a rag cover screwdriver! then is a small screw to undo the bulb holder! hope that helps :)
 

Henry 17

Guest
Rear bulb removal

Hi. thanks for the info. However, what way do you pull the cluster, Does the lens cover stay where it is? Thanks for any reply
 

BigDave67

Guest
Hi. thanks for the info. However, what way do you pull the cluster, Does the lens cover stay where it is? Thanks for any reply

This reply is too late to help Henry but I just changed one of my brake lights. You stand behind the car and pull it towards you. As a previous reply said it can be very stiff and mine was. I put one hand on the outside by the indicator and the other on the black plastic near the screws (which I had removed). Pushed my hands together to get grip and pulled with a quick hard tug and it popped out.
 

BigDave67

Guest
I have an 02 plate TDi Sport 130 owned from new
And here are the problems I've had

1. From new driver side headlight misted, dealer said they filled it with water when they washed the car before collection as the rear cover had been left off – told to drive with headlights on for a while, if it didn’t clear they would replace – it didn’t clear, replaced.
2. When weather turned cold I noticed a rear window demister wire broken – replaced under warranty
3. Handbrake cover loose – re-fitted, loose again, not fixed. I’ve learnt how to use it but when anyone else drives the car they pull it off.
4. Passenger window regulator broken – fixed under warranty
5. Month or so later driver window regulator broken – fixed under warranty
6. osf suspension bushing went. Creaking noise from driver’s footwell when lifting off accelerator or driving on a bumpy surface, like a campsite field. I think they replaced the wishbone arm too – this is a sore point as I went to stealer with creaking noise, never fixed, it got really bad and when they found the bushing had gone it was a couple of weeks out of warranty and they would not support me that I had reported the symptoms well inside the warranty period, said it was a different problem. Strange how the all noise went after the repair.
7. Rear washer pipe popped off in boot, think it was my fault because I only had water in the washer from summer and didn’t add anything in winter and we had a frost and I think it froze – fixed at next dealer service at my cost as leak was in boot and I couldn't see how to get access to fix myslef.
8. Dealer noted turbo pipe was wearing out at a service – replaced at my cost
9. Driver seat won’t release to allow access into the back of the car – not fixed, out of warranty and I’m not paying to have it fixed, just use passenger side.
10. Not sure if this is a fault but the passenger seat doesn’t always go back to where it was before it was tilted and slid to allow rear access. Sometimes you have to push it right back squashing the legs of the rear passenger to get it to lock then slide it forwards to where it was.
11. My headlamp bulbs didn’t seem to last long. I was glad the one that went wasn’t the battery side as there isn’t much room to get access and I have big hands, but then about a month later the that one went :(. The side lights have both gone too and that was even worse to replace on the battery side, luckily my girlfriend has small hands and was able to replace the cover for me. All replacements have lasted longer.

My bother just bought an 02 1.4 and his drivers side window has just got stuck down after making a crunching sound. I think that will be a regulator broken.

He also had a vibration noise when driving at over 40mph. Turned out to be a plastic panel under the drivers footwell. It is held in place by plastic push clips and a bolt at the front. The bolt was missing and allowed the panel to flap and pop out some of the clips. I have seen several makes of car driving down the motorway with a plastic panel flapping about underneath.
 

Henry 17

Guest
Thanks, big dave for the clear reply about the replacement of the rear brake bulb and removal of cluster. I did this a few weeks ago and did just as you did. I was fortunate that it came out quite easily with a reverse tug. Regards, Henry 17
 

Owl

cheesy quaver
Aug 21, 2008
148
0
sheffield
it seems the biggest problems are rear washer pipe and head light condensation...

obviously part from the obvious damp areas... do you need to keep checking the rear washer pipe??
 

DFMM

Guest
it seems the biggest problems are rear washer pipe and head light condensation...

obviously part from the obvious damp areas... do you need to keep checking the rear washer pipe??

Being new to the forum, you are understingly unaware of
1) Fragile bushings in the chassis
2) Breaking coil springs
3) Very expensive cam-chain problems on the 1.2 12 Valve petrol engines
4) Persistent history of failures of spark-plug individual H.T. coil-packs on all
petrol engines ( current revision has at least a year of nil-complaint )
4) Dealers often incompetent, unless they also have the Skoda Brand. ( At
one time it was Skoda who took on cowboy agents, but now VAG have
their SEAT operations to be ashamed of, but they let the trend continue )
FIAT and ALFA ROMEO are dumping poor dealers, in a determined effort to
restore consumer confidence. With SEAT dealerships, they ops themselves
to change brand as they lose custom to better nearby outlets.
 

Owl

cheesy quaver
Aug 21, 2008
148
0
sheffield
your only a month older on here lad lol
only one im bothered on that list is the bushings one.. coilovers are going on... and its diesel so no plugs ;) and i also believe pd 100 engine is belt driven
 

lukekbrown

Browner
Mar 1, 2008
71
0
Reading
I've got a 1.4 SE (75BHP) 2002.

Since owning it 6 months ago i've had:

1. Front and rear wishbone bushes replaced

2. ARB, ARB bushes and brackets replaced

3. Backbox had to be replaced because it corroded away

4. New key fob because my old one decided not to sync to my car

5. I now have coolant liquid dissapearing everytime. I fill it up then is gone in like a week. I've looked for leaks I can't find anything. Any help?

6. Sometimes my car loses revs and jumps, After i put my foot down on the gas it goes away. I've been told that its my throttle body clogged up, I think it might be a coil pack.
 

Johnsey

SNAFU
Dec 23, 2003
912
1
Here & There
www.google.com
I've got a 1.4 SE (75BHP) 2002.
5. I now have coolant liquid dissapearing everytime. I fill it up then is gone in like a week. I've looked for leaks I can't find anything. Any help?
If the layout is the same as it is on mine (TDI) have a look at the two aluminium pipes on the heater matrix, they have 2 'O' rings which perish causing the water to seep out. Once they wear out enough, the water will just empty in a matter of minutes. It's a tricky thing to spot until its too late as it behind everything. Good luck
 

lukekbrown

Browner
Mar 1, 2008
71
0
Reading
If the layout is the same as it is on mine (TDI) have a look at the two aluminium pipes on the heater matrix, they have 2 'O' rings which perish causing the water to seep out. Once they wear out enough, the water will just empty in a matter of minutes. It's a tricky thing to spot until its too late as it behind everything. Good luck

You lost me on the heater matrix...

Where is that located? Behind the engine?
 

Muggs

Guest
rattling behind dashboard - mine had this. i thought it was behind the dashboard too. its actually the air intake right at the front of the car - you'll see its a bit loose - just needs a cable tie round it ;-)
Hey mate

Was just wondering.. Where is the air intake located? And how do i get to it?
I've got a rattleing sound, wich sounds like comming from my dashboard. Maybe its the air intake. By air intake you mean air intake to the cabin right?
 

malky39

Active Member
Mar 12, 2008
198
0
Southside
well six months of owning my fr and the headlights are starting to mist up the passenger side worst than the drivers, would i be best waiting to see if it clears of just going straight to the dealer to get a warrenty replacement
 
Nov 6, 2007
893
0
Newark
well six months of owning my fr and the headlights are starting to mist up the passenger side worst than the drivers, would i be best waiting to see if it clears of just going straight to the dealer to get a warrenty replacement


drill a hole in the cover
 

Owl

cheesy quaver
Aug 21, 2008
148
0
sheffield
Hey mate

Was just wondering.. Where is the air intake located? And how do i get to it?
I've got a rattleing sound, wich sounds like comming from my dashboard. Maybe its the air intake. By air intake you mean air intake to the cabin right?



your air intake is the piping to and from your air filter from the engine to the front of the car
 

ibiza75

Guest
First brake down (in any car I've owned) yesterday. :banghead2

Driving on a long trip and noticed a few "jumps" through the pedals. Also notived the revs being a bit erratic and the car juddering when slowing down.

Managed to travel around 50 miles and then wile going through a vilage the engine management light started flashing, the engine juddered like crazy. Made a dive for the curb and shut it off. Strated it again and the engine was vibrating like crazy and there was a strong plastic burning smell. :censored:

Got the AA out and after removing the cover over the engine it was noticed that one of the coils had (literally) burned itself out. In fact the wiring detached from the connector when it was pulled out. He said that he's never seen one like that.

After putting a new VAG coil into the engine it was much sweeter when fired up again. I've managed another 110miles or so since the breakdown and it seems fine.

However it did cost me £41 for the part and I didn't make my intended journey, but at least the car got home under it's own steam.

I'm wondering if I should replace the other coils as well?
It's a 1.4 16v engine, 63,300ish on the clock.
 
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RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,967
1,059
South Scotland
First brake down (in any car I've owned) yesterday. :banghead2

Driving on a long trip and noticed a few "jumps" through the pedals. Also notived the revs being a bit erratic and the car juddering when slowing down.

Managed to travel around 50 miles and then wile going through a vilage the engine management light started flashing, the engine juddered like crazy. Made a dive for the curb and shut it off. Strated it again and the engine was vibrating like crazy and there was a strong plastic burning smell. :censored:

Got the AA out and after removing the cover over the engine it was noticed that one of the coils had (literally) burned itself out. In fact the wiring detached from the connector when it was pulled out. He said that he's never seen one like that.

After putting a new VAG coil into the engine it was much sweeter when fired up again. I've managed another 110miles or so since the breakdown and it seems fine.

However it did cost me £41 for the part and I didn't make my intended journey, but at least the car got home under it's own steam.

I'm wondering if I should replace the other coils as well?
It's a 1.4 16v engine, 63,300ish on the clock.

Somebody on one of these VAG forums claimed that there was an extended warranty on these troublesome COP coils - maybe have a word with a Seat dealer to see where if you can claim and get the other 3 replaced FOC. My wife's 2003MY Polo 1.4 16V BBY engine, has had one coil failure so far from new - I used VAG-COM to find it and fitted a similar ebay sourced one - maybe not the smartest move by I had been hearing the jungle drums on this topic and just thought that I'd get prepared. I did not know about extended warranty at that time. Her COP coils were Eldor made in Italy, I thought that most of the problems came initially from Beru coils that were made in a "developing" country (they had moved the manufacturing base to save money).

With that sort of damage you were lucky that the ECU had not been whacked by the coil failing.
 
Oct 17, 2006
2,141
0
Mid Wales
Coilpacks have a 5 year 60k mile warranty on them - dealers are only authorised to replace faulty packs though - so you can't replace all four because 1 fails
 
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