IHI VF34 Conversion Pics **Now with a TD05H-18G**

[HTC]

The bolt that fell out was the bottom one near the wastegate actuator. There was no space for a nordlock washer in there. I've fitted a better bolt, and I'll keep an eye on it. The other one that came very loose doesn't have this type of washer either.
The rest could be tweeked, but had not loosened enough to produce a leak. TBH I don't think I tightened those ones as much as I could have, as I used a different tool this time.

If the bolt falls out again, I'll remove the downpipe and have it welded like a captive nut. Will order another nordlock for the remaining bolt.

 

[h17och]

the funs of an underslung mani ay

 

[caveo]

I think i may have the problem as you reguards boost spike , fitted my boost gague today and yes it holds 1.2 bar but after it spikes to 1.8!!!!! WTF!! , i,ll post a vid up one day soon.

 

[stewbie55]

Was going to post this in Caveo's thread, but didn't want to hijack

PJ1985, I ran some logs yesterday. With regard to spec load vs actual load, the Audi manual mentions to look to see whether these two values are withing 0.3ms of each other from 4000rpm, which they are. I will presume that boost control is working correctly. What I did find is that my intercooler isn't up to the job as some of the logs (not pictured) were showing AIT close to 70°C. I'll sort this out soon.

What do people think about these numbers?

As previously mentioned the car feels very strong, its just the boost seems a little high looking simply at my boost gauge. Too much CFs?

I have a theory that JBS didn't notice the injector 3 air leak and it was mapped to 22psi. Now I have fixed the leak, its holding more.........sound reasonable?

I've also noticed an error code 00561 adaption limit not reach (add). So mixture is slightly lean but only at idle. Related?....well I'm not sure. I've tested fuel pressure and delivery which is within spec.

Ryan_S3, interesting comment about my lower torque. Bill and Wilko say it's okay at 273lb/ft for big port. I was told by JBS that torque was kept down due to standard rods. Can this be set via timing as well as boost?

Anyways, I've got a bunch of questions for JBS when I see them at GTI International (they will love me ).
I'm planning to see them soon for a map tweak if it needs it.

Also might get my car on the mobile dyno on Saturday.

Glad you posted this graph as I think it answers the question I posted in Caveo's thread about N75 duty cycle.

I see now that it is 100% when the wastegate is shut and the car off boost. The opposite way round to how I thought. I see how Jabba fixed my probem now

I really should get Vagcom working on my PC so I can do some of this

 

[ryan_s3]

yes torque can be increased via timing in the mid-range.

 

[stewbie55]

The bolt that fell out was the bottom one near the wastegate actuator. There was no space for a nordlock washer in there. I've fitted a better bolt, and I'll keep an eye on it. The other one that came very loose doesn't have this type of washer either.
The rest could be tweeked, but had not loosened enough to produce a leak. TBH I don't think I tightened those ones as much as I could have, as I used a different tool this time.

If the bolt falls out again, I'll remove the downpipe and have it welded like a captive nut. Will order another nordlock for the remaining bolt.

Looking at this pic I'm wondering how feasible it would be to fit a new actuator with the turbo in situ?

Straightforward or a PITA?

I quite fancy one of these
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0001&product=FMAC2SUB

 

[ryan_s3]

why would you want to fit a uprated actuator?

 

[stewbie55]

why would you want to fit a uprated actuator?

Belts and braces really.
I had lost boost due to a weakened actuator spring so the N75 duty cycle was increased. Although the spring has probably settled now - I hope - a stiffer (or adjustable) actuator could get me back to the original operating condition or at least prevent any future deterioration.

 

[HTC]

Stewbie, yes the N75 duty cycle is initially high to keep the waste gate closed at first to spool the turbo. The duty cycle decreases to allow some boost pressure to the actuator to open and close it as required.

Off boost, the duty cycle is zero allowing vacuum in the manifold to open the waste gate.

I think I have that right

Caveo, mine holds at 1.4bar all the way up to max revs. Most of the time it spikes to 1.5bar. If I come off throttle and re-plant, it can reach 1.65 (usually only in 5th gear). It's never gone as high as 1.8 :-0

Ryan, thanks for the info about torque. That must be how my torque has been limited then even with high boost. If thats the case, then I'm happy to leave my map as is.
Interesting that both caveo and I have asked to have are torque limited yet his initial dyno produced 340lb/ft and mine 273lb/ft.........odd. You did ask then to limit boost caveo, right?

I'll do some more logs to see how the N75 reacts on-off throttle in 5th.

 

[ibizacupra]

Not the most exciting things to look but they do the job. The engine is held much better with minimal vibration felt in the car. I didn't fancy a set of vibra-technics mounts for this reason.

have you tried vibratechnic mounts to know they are going to transmit more vibration? they're also harder rubber mounts

 

[ibizacupra]

was the wastegate housing ported on that IHI?

that was done by JS to improve boost control

 

[HTC]

Yes, I have experienced vibra-technics mounts and I didn't like the amount of vibration. Softer rubber mounts chosen for that reason.

My turbo is a second hand ex-jabbasport item, so I'm assuming it is ported, but I haven't checked this. If the downpipe has to come off in the future then I'll take a look. Actually I might take a look anyway as it's a two peice design and comes off easily. Should weld that captive nut sometime.

 

[pj1985]

An actuator with a stronger spring than standard will supposedly make it spike harder ie alot more than requested so if you do get one only go for standard pressure spring. Also its a massive PITA to change without taking the turbo off. To adjust mine the actuator housing was taken off the actuator rod as removing and putting the circlip back on the actuator rod that holds the wastegate arm on it I would say is 90-95% impossible with the turbo and mani in situ on the car. Once you had done it I would imagine it would have been quicker to take the turbo off to change it!

 

[HTC]

I've already had the actuator clip off of mine in situ to get a spanner on the bottom downpipe bolt. I might have thin hands or a lot of patience, but I would say that an actuator swap in situ is possible.

 

[pj1985]

It is do-able but extremely hard! You have more space than me in an ibiza like me, stewbie should have more space also and JBS set up may be slightly different for access to jabba kit.

 

[ryan_s3]

I was told a while ago that duty cycle should not exceed 90% .
Unless the actuator is sticking or absolutely knackered then try increasing the pre-load otherwise the n75 should be fine for boost control or i'd recommend a seperate boost controller.

 

[ibizacupra]

My turbo is a second hand ex-jabbasport item, so I'm assuming it is ported, but I haven't checked this. If the downpipe has to come off in the future then I'll take a look. Actually I might take a look anyway as it's a two peice design and comes off easily. Should weld that captive nut sometime.

you wont tell from looking from downpipe side. ported from other side

 

[The MoffMeister]

so you used nordlocks and what type of nuts?

and the m8 type would be the one to use? got to get myself some also


http://www.grampianfasteners.com/Index.aspx?Category=10142132

along with these they shouldnt come loose?

http://store.nutsandbolts.com/allstlonuco.html

 

[Willie]

If anyone needs stuff bought from grampian fasteners its literally 4 miles from my house. If there changing alot to ship give me a shout and I'll nip in and post the stuff to youz

 

[The MoffMeister]

nice one wll let you know esp as i need some shortly lol