**HELP** EPC Light on New Boost Guage fitted

[johnboy98]

Evening all, just fitted my prosports Boost guage and Oil temp gauge into my Nomad pillar pod today it lights up (looks the dogs danglies will post picks when its working maybe a vid also) and goes through the start up sequence but i now have my EPC light on and the car is in limp mode.

gutted to say the least ive vag com'd it and its coming up with initially this code

18047 P1639 Accelera.Pedal Pos.Sensor 1+2 Range/Performance

Now it comes up with these codes

18038 P1630 Accelera.Pedal Pos.Sensor 1 Signal too Low

18010 P1602 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage


Surely this cant have gone whilst the cars been sat???

Ive checked all wiring for loose connections and any blown fuses but none to report...im back to work later on tonight and will have to do the 83 mile journey in limp mode...whoopy frickin do...cany anyone throw a fresh angle on this for me?

I took the battery off for 30 mins to reset the ECU but still got this snag at one point it wouldnt let you rev at all the cars an 03 plate LCR with 47k.

anybody around to give a hand or are you all out on the toon for saturday night chenanigans?

 

[dasmith83]

might sound silly but have you tried disconnecting the gauges, clearing the code and seeing if the problem remains?

i can't see it being a result of you fitting gauges but you never know...cars can be like computers, a pain in the a$$ sometimes!

 

[johnboy98]

Thanks Dave yeah got plans to do that tomorrow ill post back so it might help someone in the future.

 

[johnboy98]

Still no further with this the fault code seems to have switched to 18038 P1630-35-00Accelera.Pedal Pos.Sensor signal too low.

I am in permanent limp mode no boost my NEW boost gauge is reading -5 to -10 psi and i was overtaken by a Robin reliant this morning how friggin embarrasing is that!

If it is because of the pententiometer in the pedal then why the hell did it just stop after it had been sat on my driveway whilst tapping into the boost (top of Dump Valve) the cars only done 48k and these pedals are flipping expensive (300 quid so im told) just a bit concerned that if i change for a new one and it doesnt fix the problem

Any other way of checking the pedal remoteley? im downloading Elsawin maybe the workshop manual will have a different slant on how to 100% confirm that the pedal is well and truly goosed.

 

[dasmith83]

I admit m8 that is rather strange...i think my friend's TT had a similar fault code, i'll give him a shout and see what his situation was

 

[johnboy98]

I admit m8 that is rather strange...i think my friend's TT had a similar fault code, i'll give him a shout and see what his situation was

Thanks Dave next stop will be con checking between pedal and ECU ...phhhhhh what a gaint ball ache

 

[johnboy98]

when you guys have fitted your Boost gauges where have you tapped into for the reading?
Ive taped into the top of my Forge 007P valve (ala Pabs right up, PS thanks for all your efforts matey) which looking on ETOS says its a Vacuum line is this correct or has it caused any trouble for peeps in the past??

The Gauge even when driving will only go to -5 PSI at best havent seen the thing in positve figures yet as the Limp mode EPC light is permanantley on, if the car does go into limp will you always get an EPC caption?

 

[dasmith83]

mine is tapped into the same place as yours sounds to be m8...no problems with that at all so far...not had a chance to chat to my m8 yet, but will try to tomorrow

 

[johnboy98]

Thanks Dave come on dudes someone must be able to shine a bit more light on this snag for me or I am just a special case...no funnies!

ive vag com'd it and its coming up with initially this code

18047 P1639 Accelera.Pedal Pos.Sensor 1+2 Range/Performance

Now it comes up with these codes

18038 P1630 Accelera.Pedal Pos.Sensor 1 Signal too Low

18010 P1602 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage

 

[CupraMVR]

Code 18010 means Engine control Module (ECM) - Supply voltage low from battery

Checks are - Battery was disconnected. Battery discharged, alternator, wiring open circuit or Fuse

I think you probs will of got rid of this code by now.

And the other 1 says that its got a bad Earth on it or sensor I think i changed my pedal and it was £60 from dealer.

I would check all where you have been and make sure no earths hav come off or un done

Hope we find it

 

[RikH]

as said, sounds like literally a sensor, im afraid i cant shed more light on it..
i know the brake & clutch have "switches" which go around 48k, as both mine went at the same time with no warning and i replaced both

 

[johnboy98]

Cheers peeps its definateley a wiring problem as ive slaved in a new pedal/pot and its the frickin same and yeap i did the setup procedure ala wiki vagcom.

 

[traumapat]

have you got upside down and had a look at the pedals? check everywhere you touched... perhaps youve knocked a fuse or connector?

 

[johnboy98]

have you got upside down and had a look at the pedals? check everywhere you touched... perhaps youve knocked a fuse or connector?

Odly enough traumapat that was my next move..spooky, but ive just come of night shift and am slightly jaded so getting inverted aint put a flag up my pole at this very moment, thanks for chippin in though

 

[johnboy98]

OK UPDATE ive found the problem a wire had pulled out from its chock termination its just under the scuttle panel then underneath the bulkhead engine loom/bonnet release water tight plastic cover....I must have snagged it when feedind my wiring and tube to the newly fitted PSI & OIL temp Gauges .Wahoo...WAHOOO ..WOOOOOOTY WAHOOOOOOOOooooooooooo....needless to say im pleased and got my money back for the drive by wire pedal which was not at fault.

 

[CupraMVR]

Well done lad i bet you feeling alot better now big smiles all round.

 

[johnboy98]

Well done lad i bet you feeling alot better now big smiles all round.

You fugin betcha!! and many thanks dude for the help you could give