Changing Speakers?

[Guinness]

Was wondering how ahrd is it to change the speakers in the ibiza to higher quality ones, and is it worth doing (in that are the ones that are in any good). Wot sizes are they as well I have a 3 door ibiza.

 

[dasmith83]

i used to have £1k worth of sounds in my old car...alpine type s speakers all round inc. 2 x 12" subs and 2 rather powerful amps. My ibiza has a cheapo fli active sub, and the alpine ipod full speed stereo, and i see no need to uprate any of the speakers...its more than enough to satisfy my needs, even after such a high quality set-up that i was used to.

IMO, get a half decent sub (i recommend the fli active 12" as its amazing value for money), and fit a decent H/U, and you should be happy. Choose a h/u which has HPF and LPF, so you can control the frequencies the speakers receive (this is the key, to prevent distortion, and make the most of the standard speakers).

 

[simon34]

Changed the rears in my three door for some 6*9 i had lying around sounds much better

 

[davels]

people will probably disagree with me here, but all i done was get a new headunit and some sound deadening for the doors (dynamat or R-BLOX), and kept the original speakers, and i'm very happy with it, so much better than standard, the OE speakers aren't actually bad quality it's the signal they recieve from the headunit, the sound deadening reduces vibration and helps with sound quality and bass.

EDIT allright maybe some people will agree

 

[FR*Man1984]

sounds good Davels...did you do all that yourself, or pay someone else to do it, as I'm lazey! I do agree about the sound deadening tho, seen some pictures from some guy off here and it amazed me how SEAT have got away with it. NO sound deadening from the front seats to the back of the car...I thought how CHEAP! no VW quality there guys!

 

[davels]

when i got my head unit they offered free fitting so i took it
as for the sound deadening, i done all that myself. i used R BLOX at £16.99 for a 2'x2' square, they say you don't need to just plaster it on the entire door just a few strips will do on the large metal panel bits, and everything thats loose inside the door just put a strip of it over them aswell. that and heavy duty velcro came in handy .
a week or two later for the rear i got 2 panels of this foam stuff (it's shaped like the bottom off an egg carton and about 1'x1') and placed that directly behind the speaker, it's supposed to deflect the sound waves back inwards instead of backwards towards the metal wing, and all i can say is if you find some of this stuff the differance it made to the bass produced is unbelievable. cost £15 for 2 bits. i'm no expert when it comes to ICE installs but if you want to improve the sound but are on a budget, do what i did above

 

[DaveP]

I have slowly done head unit, speakers front, speakers rear. rear ones in 3dr are a bit of a pain. Fronts are easy. Because the car is so noisy I turn it up very loud, therefore I think I needed to upgrade my speakers. Some secondhand Focals are doing a sterling job.

 

[Ric 2001]

Upgraded my fronts with AlphaSonik 16.5 components had to make a speaker bracket with some 10mm MDF, and dynamatted the entire door,but the bit that holds the window kept catching the speaker, so I layered the dynamat over the bracket 3 times just to give it a bit more space works a treat. Only problem is trying to fit the tweater into the original spot. Had to "modify" the triangular peice near the wing mirror to make the new speaker fit.

But now that someone's crashed into my passanger door, I'm hoping that my crossover isn't smashed into pieces, or the 16.5cm speaker broke. Going to have to re-dynamat the passager door all over again - GREAT!!!

Also found that getting a new HU seriously improves the originals speakers sound.

a week or two later for the rear i got 2 panels of this foam stuff (it's shaped like the bottom off an egg carton and about 1'x1') and placed that directly behind the speaker

Hmmm couldn't you just use egg boxes?

 

[gazjones]

i found that when puting my standard h/u back in the sound was better. seat speakers are ok, work well with a sub an bass on minus 3. as for changing the speakers need to drill the rivets out but not hard at all.

 

[Ibiza02]

i upgraded all my sound system and put in 2*12inch US Blaster subs in a bix, two US Blaster Amps, US Blaster powercap, false floor and fitted into boot, alpine headunit, US Blaster frotn 16.5 compopnent speakers with tweeters and just bought some JBL 16cm from work for the rear hopefully gonna put them in sometime today so all sounds good dont get me wrong the standard speakers are very good for what they are but upgraded ones with amps sound so better

 

[dasmith83]

i upgraded all my sound system and put in 2*12inch US Blaster subs in a bix, two US Blaster Amps, US Blaster powercap, false floor and fitted into boot, alpine headunit, US Blaster frotn 16.5 compopnent speakers with tweeters and just bought some JBL 16cm from work for the rear hopefully gonna put them in sometime today so all sounds good dont get me wrong the standard speakers are very good for what they are but upgraded ones with amps sound so better

I agree with you there m8. All you really need is a decent h/u to improve the sound no end. But you can't beat a decent set of speakers, especially components that run off a decent amp. Quality is much better.

 

[lukey]

another vote for the standard speakers being surprisingly good, although i run full alpine TypeS components, speakers and amplifiation and a cheap JBL twin sub i bought years ago thats still quite impressive.

the sound quality is better than the standards of course, but the seat ones are still very good.

i havent got any extra deadening in at the moment, but im sorting the doors this morning, but one area i want to go mental with the dynamat would be the arch areas to reduce some road roar

 

[FR*Man1984]

I agree with you there Lukey, the rear arches are a pain for road roar, my dad says it's awfully loud sittingin the back!
Good goind Davels, I'll certainly be giving what you've done a try. Where do you get that sort of sound proofing? I've off on annual leave in March for a while, so would be ace to do it then and get my car all sound deadened lol

Thanks for all your comments guys, think I'll have to keep my original h/u and speakers for the time being, as suspension/coilovers are the next on my list!

 

[lukey]

ive fully done my doors out today, put some foam padding behind all wires then gaffer taped them up, removed all connectors and the window motors and foamed them, stuck some deadening around and about, i also cut down some sticky-outy bits of plastic from the backs of the door cards that were resonating.

Ater having it all back together even slamming the door shut it sounds like a more substantial door and zero vibration no matter how loud the music gets or bumpy the roads.

a well worthwhile job done for £25 quids worth of deadening, mill shop cushoining foam and B&Q gaffer tape

 

[rashcupra]

im sorry but going to have to say that the beeza i have has the shitiest sound system ever its tinny and pants can hardly hear the rear speakers unless i put all out put to them!!


not ever wanting to upgrade the sound system tho as i get more enjoyment for performance mods imo

 

[davels]

just turn your radio down and listen to your miltek eh

ps your gonna need a bigger pic your running out of room on your sig

 

[rashcupra]

thats it mate still not totally convinced on the exhaust yet bit loud!! i am kinda running outa space on the signature

 

[Nath.]

your zorst may get quieter when it soots up a bit, don't panic

 

[gazjones]

yes very loud at first plus it will adapt over time the dp make is sound nuts over 3k at first but you get used to it

 

[rashcupra]

is very weird sound! but as i say sound really load at d mo not to happy with soundf performance seems alot better from what i can do anyway as i want to bed it in before i rag it